Well... Disclaimer: interested amatuer, no training in tile. But-- Grout doesn't 'seal' anything. It takes up space so nasty stuff can be wiped off, rather than having to dig it out of the cracks. Sanded grout is stronger, more abrasion resistant than unsanded. The big reason it isn't used on narrow joints is that the matrix of the sand itself [the way it clumps together, the grains basicly interlocking like bricks] makes it very difficult to work all the way to the bottom of a narrow grout gap. Unsanded does have [realitively] more cement, so its 'glue-ier' than sanded, and may cling to the sides of the tile a little better. Makes a difference on a narrow gapped floor, but I don't *think* it will on a tub surround. So if the install is all done, and you really, really worked at mashing that grout deep into the gaps, I honestly think your OK: you made it harder on yourself, but you didn't do anything 'wrong' that will affect the way things work. But if you essentially just wiped the grout accross the surface instead of filling the gaps from the bottom up, then there is a chance that the air gaps below will cause the grout to crumble and fail. What will you do if that happens? Exactly what you are contemplating now: digging it out and replacing it. It will be a little tougher after the cement in the grout fully cures. So you have to ask yourself: are you comfortable that the grout fully fills the gaps, or do you think it's likely that there are some pretty big air pockets down there? I stand ready to be corrected by any of our tile pros...

Thanks. I talked to the guy giving me the bed and he said you install the counter first so you can securely attach it to the wall which I guess makes sense LOL. He's a friend's nephew and he's a master Carpenter. And he was remarking on what an excellent job the plaster repair person did on my plaster ceiling and he noticed what a great job that I did on installing my doors airtight so it seems like he has a pretty good attention to detail and she's used him to redo many of her many many properties. I do have a backup person though that is meticulous but not working as a tile setter. is a social worker...

The cinder block wall should of had a "scratch coat" applied prior to setting the stones. A pre-mixed mortar designed specifically for veneer stone must be used. This same mortar is to be used on the stone backing itself. The scratch coat once applied, should be run over with a large notched tile trowel to produce grooves which allow the wall stone to have a better bond. We prefer using the individual natural stones rather than a panel system. It's like a giant puzzle. We just completed a pool project with a 32" raised wall section 40' long. I can post a photo when I'm able. I can see the appeal with a panel system to speed the installation, but I can venture there are a few doubles of the same panels and the wall begins to look artificial. Just my opinion.

Happy New Year! I hope everyone enjoyed the holidays. I did...LOL So here's the update. Far now, I'm not going to paint the trim/door, or game room entrance until I finished painting. I like the idea of painting the trim and wall the same color. Thoughts? The ceilings are currently being painted Sherwin Williams Highly Reflective white. Any suggestions on a neutral paint color? (something to flow with this granite color below). I'm going to paint the main living area of the house including the kitchen the same color. I took this at night close up of granite The white is the granite