How in the world do you cope with potted plants in extreme heat?
myermike_1micha
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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How do you start your cool veggies in the heat?
Comments (12)Okay. Last year, farmerdill gave me his planting schedule for fall gardens. I copied it all into my garden journal so I wouldn't forget. Here goes. Mid July: Start collards, brocolli, cauliflour, and cabbage from seed. Sow it into pots, barely covering the seed with a light dusting of potting mix. Set the pots into dappled shade and water daily. Dappled shade for me is on my deck under the deck benches. Underneath there, the plants get full sun in the morning until approximately midday and light to full shade the rest of the day. It works. This year too, remarkably. Also, in July, I pull most of my first crops: tomatoes, beans, squash, etc. which are now finished and replant them, beginning to leave room for cool season crops. This year I have successfully seeded okra, cowpeas, cucumbers, and squash, though last year mildew got the squash and cucs. Also, it's helpful to keep the squash under row covers to keep squash vine borers away from them at least until they begin to bloom. August:Late month direct sow turnips, rutabagas, mustard greens, and Asian greens. You can also sow carrots and beets, though I have yet to get a good stand of beets. Septembmer: set out your seed started brassicas from July around the middle of the month. You can still direct sow leafy greens too. Mid month, start onion seeds (short day) in flats. And in the third or fourth week, plant lettuce, garlic, spinach (tough), and red mustard. Plant the onion seedlings into the garden in late November or early December. It helps to get better germination in extreme heat if you cover the sown beds with fabric row cover and water through the fabric. I guess it holds the moisture in the beds longer. You certainly need to water daily until germination, which is really fast, 3-4 days for most things. I have only had a fall garden two years now, but it's wonderful! I keep all my greens and lettuces under floating row covers draped over fence wire hoops and both years, absolutely everything lived and produced all winter long. (Temps above 10 both winters.) I also mulch the beds well with pinestraw. This is for freeze protection, but it also has a benefit of keeping the greens perfectly clean. If you harvest the leaves with scissors and don't pull the plants out by the roots, cleaning the greens is a snap. I hope this helps you!...See MoreYou can OVER water in extreme heat....P.S
Comments (14)First off..Hello Andrew and you are welcome... Mn_citrus..I would have to guess it may be all relative depending on many factors? I hope I am alright to assume that many here kind of know what is too hot for their plants and how they are affected. If not, then they need to be more in tune with their plants, the containers they choose to use, and most of all the mix they grow in. Also how their containers can heat root sysytems compared to more stable temps for trees in the ground. How often to water, how fast their mixes dry out and what color the pots are used are all important factors to vital root health. For some, just the temps alone into the 90's can over heat roots such as mine, and then to have pots in full sun at those temps in black containers can bake roots like mine. Root rot usually occursin the winter for some. But root rot in the summer is invariably blamed on poor drainage and overwatering too. I wonder how much root death from overheating may also contribute to the summer root-rot phenomenon. (It's almost ironic that it's recommended to place Bonsai affected by root-rot in the shade after treatment - part of the cure?) Even some of the winter occurrences of root-rot may have had their origin in summer heat killed or damaged roots. (Now, there's some interesting studies to be performed). And finally, I think it's fair to say that high summer temperatures and placing certain plants in full sun throughout the growing season probably have some negative effect on a plants roots. Precautions such as midday shading and watering to cool down the containers might be in the best interest of plants, especially many of my Bonsai and Citrus. (I may even rethink the layout of my growing area and move some trees to more shade in the deep summer). Tamela..No problem...:-) I would water my plants if they were drying out that fast...For those plants that sit in damp mixes even after hot weather for days, I would be very careful is what I am saying... Mike...See MoreHow do you beat the heat in the garden?
Comments (15)I think the worst part of the heat in the midwest is the humidity that arrives with it...not exactly just the heat....it stifles the breath right out of you when it reaches 90's. I spent two weeks in Vegas last year and the temps with 105 or more each day. That heat felt much more comfortable the the heat at home in the 90's. As long as we drank..we felt fine. My sister in law who lives in Vegas came to visit Indiana in July last year..when she left Vegas it was 103...she thought hot...but when she got here..it was 92..cooler she thought as she got her stuff ready to deboard the plane. By the time we made our way across the parking lot to the car, she was winded...and said she would take vegas 103 heat ANY day compared to this. A week later she couldn't wait to get back home to her hot dry heat where at least her chest didn't feel like someone was standing on it all day... We also have to remember that the plants in each zone are acclimated for that particular heat and so are the heat and water needs...when it reaches 90's and humid in the midwest..nothing can breathe...not plants, or people. Mid 90's is the top of its range... So it takes extra care to assure things survive..Every zone of the country has diff heat and cold highs and lows..and life, both people and plants are used to that level...and has certain needs at that level. That is why certain things grow in one place and not another.. The plants that we struggle in the midwest to keep alive in the 90's do not even survive in texas or florida heat.... the plants that need the heat from Texas or Florida can not survive here with our cool nights in the fall and spring, or our winters,....its all what is the regions normal and what kind of things we are dealing with. It is really all about what is hot in your region...and what plants and people are use to there. Not about "how" hot it is.... Just my thoughts....See MoreHow will extreme heat and high humidity effect my peppers?
Comments (21)I garden in Southwest Florida also, in planting beds and in seven-gallon nursery containers. I've been having trouble growing peppers in the heat in my climate. Part of the trouble is root knot nematodes, which thrive in our subtropical climate. They are especially bad in the summer months in the heat and frequent downpours. Currently I'm fallowing my soil in trash containers for months at a time to reduce their numbers, and rotating with resistant varieties like Wando pea and California Blackeyed Pea number 5. The only pepper I've grown that does well through the summer is Thai Hot. They slow down in the cooler weather and pick up in the heat. I'm testing Marconi this year in my containers, they are reported to be heat tolerant, but I've learned to be skeptical about claims made in seed catalogs. Chilly Chili Hybrid from Tomatogrowers.com is supposed to be "extremely heat tolerant", so they might work. That company is in Southwest Florida, so it might be good info. I tried Carolina Wonder peppers for their reported nematode resistance, and they got devastated by root knot nematodes in my containers. There were hardly any roots at all when I pulled them, just knobby galls. There is no substitute for trial and error under your specific growing conditions. What works in Iowa might not work in The South, as we have both found out. I tried Gypsy, another "heat resistant" pepper. They are all dying and it's only May....See Moremyermike_1micha
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