I'm not sure why the flowers have spots on them, usually this is caused by a fungus in conditions where the air isn't moving and it's is very humid. Or perhaps you are misting them when you water? In that case, try to avoid getting water on the flowers. The flowers may be wilting just because it's time for them to go, it sounds like you've had this plant for a while. I would also discourage the use of fertilizers while the plant is in bloom, some people believe this causes flowers to die earlier. As to the spot, this is most likely either a fungal or bacterial infection. Take a pair of clean scissors and cut the leaf at least 1/2 or 1 inch (depending on how fast it has been spreading) around the spot. Make sure you don't touch the scissors to the spot as this may transfer the infection. Usually spots like this are caused by conditions that are not optimal for the orchid. Some additional questions to help us with culture recommendations: How much sun is your plant getting? How humid is it where you are? What are the day and night temperatures? Please also refer to phal culture sheets by the Canadian Orchid Congress. These can help you fine tune your conditions so the orchid will bloom again for you soon. ~Jem

The plant is in pretty good condition, it is normal for old roots to rot off and die. Provided the plants grows new roots at regular intervals all will be well. You need someone to tell you how often to repot Phalaenopsis. Tell us where you have the plant and the temperature ranges there, to provide clues re. No flowers.

Zowie, I'm going to vote for a fungal infection in the crease of the leaf. Doesn't really matter, the treatment I would suggest is the same. Get a disposable very sharp instrument such as a razor blade, exacto blade, etc. etc. Heat the blade over an open flame until it is red hot and let it cool. As I see your photo, there is a black area in the crease of the leaf, then a border of white, then an area where the leaf is looking kind of clear or watery. You are going to have to get between that watery looking area and the main part of the plant, but far enough away from the watery looking area that you are sure you are in uninfected tissue, and cut that leaf off. Try to make just one clean cut. If you have to make two cuts, I would resteralize the blade before the second cut. get some kind of powdered horticultural fungicide and apply a liberal coat to the entire cut area. Do not water the plant for a week, and see if you have stopped the spread of the problem. If the infection is still present, do the procedure again, cutting even further into healthy looking tissue the second time. If you are dealing with a Cattleya type plant, you may have to remove the entire pseudobulb. If it is something like a Phalaenopsis (your photo looks like it may be), then you will get to the main part of the plant, and my be in trouble if you don't get it stopped before that. Your second photo, the spots on the leaf tips, I would not worry too much about those unless they begin to get the watery area around them and it spreads. Then the same procedure as above. I would begin to look for a cause of this problem. Insects could be carrying this around. I suspect you are growing in your home, and most insects that would carry something like this would be noticeable, and most unwelcome in someone's home, so with no complaint about that perhaps you don't have an insect problem. I would look at high humidity and stagnant air, with water splashing around on watering days. With these wet stagnant conditions, another plant may have had a problem, and splashing water could spread it. After you get this infection stopped, pop that plant out of its pot and check the roots. Stagnant air and wet conditions can mean over watering, and a root rot problem. Root rot = weak plants = high probability of disease. Orchids need their water, but at least as important is a drying period, and vigorous air motion. Tough items to supply in some home growing areas. Good luck Bill

I live in Toronto Canada, cold snowy winter conditions for months now. My orchids are always indoors, and yes the house has been rather dry for a while without a whole lot of ventilation. I never take my orchids outdoors. I already have too much trouble controlling bugs on my 2 large hibiscus plants that I keep outdoors every summer as otherwise they don't bloom too well and also because they take up a lot of space indoors. I keep spraying with insecticidal soap and neem oil, as soon as I stop the little white mites are back......a few days ago I sprayed with diluted H2O2, will see how this goes... The growing medium for my orchids is bark, specific for orchids it said on the bag, but don't know what kind. I have been watering them every week to 10 days with some orchid fertilizer most of the time, with plain water in between. I have not spritzed them for months... I used to take each orchid to the sink for watering, lift it out of the ceramic pot to drain, then replace. But lately I have been lazy and just watered them on the spot with all the rest of the plants in the same location , a bay window. All of my other plants are in pots with drainage holes and sitting on a plate allowing for drainage. But the orchids came with a cheap plastic pot with a drainage hole and an outer ceramic pot without. I do now realize that I have to change this system. How do you tell the difference between black rot and mold, and would both not present similar problems and spread ? I will spray the outer pot with H2O2 today. In fact I was thinking of spraying the bottom roots of the plant with perhaps a diluted version as well. Some people on youtube suggested this, but others warned against this method, that is why I asked for help on this forum...I really appreciate your help Jane, thanks for taking time out for answering!