This is a 48'x80' shed that I am building. I am just using it to give you a visual idea of what you could do with the existing pad. If you wish to use the pad but make the shed larger than 6x10. Say 10x12 for example. Dig down below the surface of the outer edges of the pad (much like digging a ditch) to the desired size. Measure and set the post to the size shed you want. On the bottom outside of the post nail 2X's (4,6 etc) so that they are level with the pad. Then fill the void with gravel base and then concrete to make the entire pad level. Build the shed. You can go back later and paint the pad which is now your floor to make the finish even between old and new construction. Once I have the roof finished on my shed. I will go back and remove the grass and run a compactor over the surface. Lay a bed of compacted gravel over that. Then nail 2"x6"'s level around the outside of the post. and pour the concrete using them as forms. The yellow triangles are to show how this will be done. This does a few things. It allows me to drill the post and run rebar rods through them to covered with concrete. Makes the walls even with the outside stringer. Places the siding out away from the concrete pad 1 1/2" for drainage (stringer will be even with the pad making it weather proof). Adds another 6 inches of support to the corner post on two sides and three on the side wall post. Just an Idea of my way of building sheds for you to consider.

Where are you in CO? I can hardly wait for spring in my Springs neigborhood as the place comes to life with so many flowering trees. It too is an older area. Am working on my backyard also, about twice your size but in the same situation. It is a tradgedy from lack of care by previous owners, but did come back to life a bit last summer...with a bunch of continuous attention. At one time it must have been a beautiful yard as there were remants of a rock garden and many roses still attempting to live. I have huge trees at the far back and both sides of the yard are flanked with old lilacs which completely hide the fencing. The rest of the yard is open with old lawn and nothing else. Was able to plant a couple of small trees for future shade closer to the house, but with this winter cold they may not have made it. After considering some ideas (and I can't afford a landscaper), I've decided that hardscape is the answer to beginning again in this yard. The area most needed is coming out of the back door onto a 12 X 20 concrete patio. It feels barren, am building a 4' fence around it, about 2' beyond the pad so I can add plants/bushes/vines between the patio and fence. Would love a pergola over the patio but costs seem to have gone through the roof, so the fence came to mind to soften the patio and I'll just keep using umbrellas. Another addition is a potting shed with porch. A new roof went on last summer, saved all the wood shingles to use on the shed. I also have 2 big dogs and they love their yard. It is difficult to plan a garden with tender plantings which is why I've decided hardscape first, then start adding the plantings nearby where they can be safe from paw paths. So....I didn't add anything to help you. But my first thought would be trees, get a start on them, at least 3 in various locations and near the patio for shade. Is the patio flagstone? It could be taken out and reused in the same location on a new base. Some large bushes by the alley fence and garage. Hardscape wise, I love sheds...they can be tiny and still give some cottage feeling. I actually saw a victorian shed built in a front yard, it was charming. Hopefully some others will respond who have more knowledge of cottage gardens....at this point with mine it feels like it will take forever to get where theirs are.

It does sound like there might be a problem with the concrete portion of the room but we would also like to know as much detail as possible on how hvac is laid out. I hate chasing rabbits all over then be told one was hidden beneat a bucket from the start. It appears you arn't looking to jump right on this so I'll only get you started with seeing what can be done and how much effect it will have. The nuts and bolts of remediation can come later,depending how much your enthusiasm wanes after stareing down the barrels of realality. Use quick reading digital thermometer to read A outdoor ambent, B air temp in inclosed space beneath floor C soil temp beneath floor at 2" 6" and 12" below grade (test near center of room and midways between columns,not next to columns nor block walls.) Repeat soil test within 2 inches of 2 or 3 columns near center of room and 2 or 3 locations 2 inches from inside of block wall. Record and average readings for each test set. You can't use a pos device nor curupt readings with breath,body heat,lights and such. The differentials can be much smaller than you are acustomed to in daily life but are meaningful non the less. Try doing this after 3 or more days ( longer the better) of fairly consistant sun.wind,precipt and temps ( day night flux is inevetable as long as there isn't changing weather patterns.) A good thermometer isn't expensive and can be used for many different things for years to come. I try to keep secret the device I used for steak last yesterday was used last week on a boiler system. After you assemble and chart your data, you should have an aah haa moment.

Please read everything you can on canine development. Yes, 3 months is still a puppy and you can expect juvenile behaviour for a few years. But training should begin with his Mom at birth and continue from the very moment he joins your family. 15 minutes of intense training work per day (can grow to twice per day as he gets bigger) will do wonders. To be clear, I wasn't referring to food as reward. I was referring to his meals. When it's time to eat, ask him to sit. When he does, say "leave it" and set his bowl down. If he moves toward his bowl, say "leave it" and pick the bowl up, ask him to sit. Repeat until he sits nicely until you invite him to eat with whatever command you choose. "go get it", "ok boy", "it's yours", etc. Gesture to his bowl as you give that command so he understands. Halfway through his meal, give the "leave it" command again. He should immediately look away from the food. At that point you praise his obedience calmly, then tell him to sit, or tell him he can have is food. Whatever you want because you are the boss. If he doesn't look away, take the bowl as you say "leave it", get him to sit, repeat the whole process. I get my kids to do this too because I want the dogs to know that the Littles are dog bosses too. If he snaps or growls when you take his food, you have a big problem. Get professional training for you and Dog together. You should consider that in any case.