Thank you so very much Mongo, you do a superb job of explaining things. I remember you telling me on a previous post about a small wet saw, thanks for reminding me. My husband doesn't have enough hair for spray so I think I'll use some cheapy brand; it is a wonderful tip. I can do this, I pulled it off on my kitchen backsplash with even less information and the herringbone ran on the diagonal. Those tiles were pre cut and I am thankful that they were, because I didn't have a clue to the problems that could have developed if they weren't. They were apparently cut to your equation because they matched perfectly. Crazy spacing, I like the grid tech for the floor:) I remember taping my 45* drafting square to the sides of these sections for drying overnight. One night I stayed up all night to tile. It was fun though. This was my first wall, I got better on the second wall as seen in the 2nd pic: I just picked a center spot over the stove location and started - it wasn't exactly centered though, The grout was still wet at this point: You've just boosted my confidence, and others if they are following this post. Thank you so much again Mongo, for your help on this project, and on all the other projects that us lost souls post on GW.

If you don't have any clear reason for a particular height for the border row, it coul dbe a good idea to put it at the height of a full tile; for example, if you have 12"x12" or 13"x13" tiles, run the accent row above four full large tiles. In both bathrooms we've just redone, I planned it out this way with the contractor; he figured out high and low spots and what small adjustments he needed to make it work -- you don't want to start with four full tiles and end up with a sliver or fat grout line somewhere because of an uneven floor or wall, so it may not work out to be exactly four full tiles all the way around, but the amount of cutting may be reduced and, more importantly, it looks like all full-size tiles below the accent row. I'm 100% certain Bill can make it look stunning with 3-1/2 rows ;) but my contractor's suggestion to go four full tiles up meshed well with my guestimate of the height I wanted the accent row, and we're happy with the results. Also think about where you want shower controls, wall bars, shower niches or any other wall interruptions as well, as any of these could also influence where you determine the best height for your break in the wall should fall. -- Eric

I bought just what you're looking for at Menards a couple of months ago. I'm sorry, but I can't remember the price. I'm remodeling my bathroom and buying a lot of stuff. I know I got their 11% rebate on it. I'm sure it was reasonably priced because I bought a lot and I can't afford much.

I like the sound of those vents you bought. Where did you get those ? I’ve posted some pictures of my vents. One opens in which happens when the exhaust fan turns on. Pro - opens automatically when it is hot and the fan is on. Con - opens automatically when the wind blows so I have to barricade it shut during the cold weather. Solution - mechanical vent opener which is next. The one that opens out WAS supposed to open automatically as the temp got hotter with one of those openers with wax in them Although they work great for their intended purpose. It is challenging to get them to operate the way I need it to. I have installed pullies trying to get them to open properly but didn’t have time to finish that project so they stay closed until the warm weather then I prop them open. Work in progress but that’s the fun of it, right ???? The fan I bought moves some air. The switch shown in the pictures works flawlessly. I set mine to turn on at 120 and off at 100. As you can imagine - it is on a lot during the hot days. It draws in the air through the vents but if the air is hot to begin with then it makes it tougher. Some day ....... I’m going to put in waterproof worktops and then install some sort of misting system. Evaporative cooling (swamp coolers) are effective for their specified purpose. I insulted the roof, North wall and the east side with bubble wrap. I have a 30,000 BTU kerosene heater (am upgrading to Natural gas someday). I have 10 (50 gallon) drums filled with water and painted black. Those are for my latent heat. They absorb the heat from the sun and heater and then dissipate it back to the GH when the sun goes down. Hot goes to cold. Some think they don’t work but they work for me and they were free. Even in the Winter - if they freeze it is still fine because water generates BTU’s when it changes state from ice to water. You mention the roof vents. They are hard to get to. The only way I can think of is to remove the one next to it to gain access. That will be hard for me because they are siliconed in place, have double clips and a screw in the center. Yes, I did get carried away when I built my GH. I made a complete unistrut structure and then built the GH around it. It has held up tp 60 wind gusts without losing one panel. The frame can’t go anywhere because it is up against the unistrut. It was a lot of work but it was worth it. A friend of mine put his up and it blew down after just two weeks. I did plant through rough last Winter but just some cold veggies like Spinach and lettuce. Once it was too hot for the exhaust fan to cope - 140 + in the GH then I only planted watermelon in there. I may try something else this year during the hot summer.