We have an old 1920's English Tudor in Wisconsin, and just repaired a step crack in our basement where water was coming in. The crack went all the way from the base of the window down to the floor. We don't have a poured basement, we have cinder block. It was an easy fix. Our crack went really deep, so what we did first was spray "Great Stuff" liquid foam deep into the recesses of the crack - it has a long straw which allows you to reach hidden areas, and once you spray the product expands on its own. I don't know if this was necessary, but we did it anyway just to fill in the voids. This one was specifically designed for masonry. There are others designed for window frames, plumbing, etc. and each has different properties. We purchased it at Home Depot. What local contractors and our local paint store (a reputable one) told us to do is to apply UGL Drylok quick dry Hydraulic Cement. This is applied probably no deeper than 1 inch from the surface. We first chiseled out all residue and wiped the surface so that it was free of dust and particles. You want to chisel the crack at the surface to make a nice "V" shape - enough room to apply the hydraulic cement. Before applying the cement, spray the surface so that it is moist. The wet surface will help the cement adhere better, and will lessen shrinkage while it cures. Home Depot initially told us to seal the cement after it dries, but our paint store (these guys are WAY more knowledgable than Home Depot employees, in my opinion) told us this wasn't necessary unless we were planning on painting that area. We have paneling over the crack, and the cement worked wonderfully, so it wasn't necessary for us to apply a sealer. It's now dry as a bone, after a ton of subsequent rain. Because of the previous leak, the area is a little mildewy, so we purchased UGL Drylock Etch masonry cleaner. This is only necessary if you need to remove mildew, excess mortar, efforescence (salt-like deposits) before preparing the surface for the cement.

Usually you drill holes along the crack and install injector ports every 12" and you fill them as you go with epoxy. This way the epoxy fills the entire crack cavity. Here is a few images to give you an idea. This is a cross section how it works

Sorry here are the repairs

Thanks Virgil. No all down spouts have tubing connected to them and go under ground and empty out far from the house. They graded the areas by the house so water flows away from the house. There is no standing water. This is the wall where the cracks are. Those 2 downspouts have tubing that takes the water off to the right of the house and spills off away from the house. The land slopes from left to right. The other side of the house has two downspouts with tubing that goes around side of house and empties downslope past the house. The only time we had any standing water was a low spot where that empty planting area is within the pavers and we had a drain put in that takes the water away. The land slopes down toward the woods.