Mownie - Your posts are fantastic. Thanks. I do have the JD manual but as you say, the schematics are not great. I do have the seat switch unmounted so no frame short there. Pink wire doesn't seem to be the problem - fuse blows with X3 and X4 connectors connected (ignition on, seat switch depressed, and all other components and switches disconnected) but does not blow when X4 disconnected and pink wire 800 isolated and connected alone to its post on IM. It's odd that with X3 connected, no individual wire in X4 will cause the fuse to blow, but when all the wires in X4 are plugged in, the fuse will blow when the ignition is on and the seat switch is depressed (and all other components and switches disconnected). Makes me think the IM is bad but I'm still not sure. Also, I did find that if X3 connected and X4 disconnected, connecting yellow-black wire 410 in X4 to its post on IM will cause fuse to blow (again with ignition on, seat switch depressed, and all other components and switches disconnected). 410 goes to ground. Again this makes me think the IM is bad. Also, I'm not sure how IMs go bad. I was just mowing the lawn, hit a bit of a bump (nothing unusual) and the tractor just shut down. I guess it's just as likely that a circuit board just dies as some other components. I figure a wire shorted due to a physical abrasion or corrosion would more likely be somewhat intermittent while my problem is not at all intermittent. Any additional thoughts before I replace the IM?

How about some specific model and type numbers from the engine? "Briggs 20 HP Twin OHV" is still too vague and you can't get to a Briggs site manual without Model & type numbers. Magneto??? Generator??? Your engine has both, and each serves a different goal. Magneto creates the spark for the spark plug ignition. Generator (alternator) provides electrical power for keeping the battery recharged and to address the 12 volt loads of the electric PTO and lights. Magneto problems will not affect the PTO or the operation of the starter. Generator problems will not affect spark. Generator problems certainly will have an influence on whether the PTO works, and whether the battery stays charged to crank the engine. When we get the model & type numbers from you we will be able to look at the IPL and see if your engine has a fuel solenoid. The reason for "need to know" on that is because a Briggs engine that does not have a fuel solenoid will happily continue to run after the fuse you're thinking of blows. In that case, the PTO would quit but the engine would run on. But the next time you tried to start the engine, the blown fuse would prevent the starter from working. IF....the engine DOES have a fuel solenoid, the engine would have died the moment the fuse blew. In fact, the engine dying would probably have been at the top of the complaint because you would have failed to note that the PTO quit. Looking like a problem in the charging system, or a blown fuse to me. But remember, a fuse does not blow without a reason.

Does anyone out there have a John Deere L120 have a issue with the following it has a extra regulator box on side to keep battery charged while the electric PTO is working also need to know or would like a pic of how it is wired it shows voltage on the regulator when switch is off if anyone can help with pic of how theiers is wired or info would be greatly appreciative.

Baymee's response makes a nice balance between an appropriate level of cleaning for a twelve-year old engine and keeping the peace with my neighbor and friend. ''Drain the oil and then remove the fill tube. Suck out whatever sand you can get and then fill the sump with kerosene. Drain, refill with kero a few times and then cross your fingers.'' This engine's lubrication system surely is debris tolerant enough to get the residual sand through the filter. The filter should take care of it from that point - otherwise what good is the filter system? I might take the Baymee's flushing idea to the next level by using a remote filter-pump combo. Hook up hoses to the oil drain and oil fill and circulate kerosene/mineral spirits/Rislone through a remote filter. I'll take a sample occasionally until the fluid runs clean. Sludge isn't the issue here, so maybe a solvent isn't necessary. I might use straight MEG (antifreeze) with the idea that the viscosity will drag out the sand. The MEG contains a corrosion inhibitor, so I won't ruin anything. A follow-up flush with straight 40-weight will take out the MEG. Or perhaps just flush with 40-weight. MEG has the advantage of low cost and disposability. Knuttle's idea of taking it to the dealer is of course the most direct approach. Walt and Mownie express that this course of action has the advantage of transferring some liability to the dealership if the engine is trashed a week later. And TomPlum, we already look back and laugh and tell stories to everyone we know from Sunday School to work to teachers, etc. He is a legend already. Anyone have ideas for pumps? Andy in Friendswood a.k.a. lawnboy_10525