@Foolishpleasure: "These trees need sun and 70 degrees weather outside" Well, last winter was the first one where I've owned citrus trees and moved them inside. I didn't have much indoor growth but didn't have these problems last winter. "I think all we have to do is be patient until the winter is over" I just hope my plants long enough. I'm pretty confident that if they do, they'll do a lot better outside. The "if" is uncertain, though. @meyermike Thanks for the detailed reply. Always enjoy your posts. "I would be concerned if there is TWIG dieback." That is what I am experiencing. Sorry if that wasn't clear. Flowers will usually be covered in stick sap, then fall off, then the leaves fall off, and then the twig will turn dark and die. "How long is it taking for your mix to dry out now that it is indoors? " The dozen or so trees I have are in a few different mixes. Some are in coconut husk chips and peat. Others are in a peat/compost mix with perlite and fine orchid bark. At least one was in a storebought cactus/citrus mix that I added some more perlite to. With nearly all except one (which takes ~5 days to dry out), the soil surface will be dry within 3-4 days I'd guess. I water every 5 days approximately. As evidenced by my approximate guess on how long the pots take to dry, I should probably be more certain on the dryness of the plants when I water. I haven't given properly measuring the dryness of the soil the proper focus, even though I'm aware it's probably the most common indoor plant mistake people make. I've just been eyeballing it, seeing if the surface of the soil is dry. A lot of the time the soil beyond the immediate couple mm surface level of the soil is still a little damp when I water. Sometimes the pots are more dried out, but I don't let this happen consistently. I have had fungus gnats before, have killed them off with Gnatrol and curtailing watering I think 2 times now, and now they are back on some plants. This is probably pretty good evidence of overwatering, isn't it... "How about just once let them get to a wilt before watering?" This is a good suggestion. Despite overlooking it in the past, I am going to monitor my water usage more closely, watering less, and see if that clears up any issues. I'm willing to try everything. Half the plants are in plastic containers, half are in terra cotta containers. This seems to have made no observable difference for the plant health, but I thought I'd mention it because I've read it has some effect. "Did you do a give them a time to ajust before they came inside? " "What kind of temps were they exposed to and for how long before you brought them in? " "Now, what temps have you exposed them to now?" They were in full, unobstructed, south facing sun. They had sun pretty much the entire daylight hours from April - October. Come October they were moved gradually to a spot that has good morning sun and afternoon shade over about two weeks. Then I moved them to a different yard that is even more shaded for at least two weeks. Then I moved them inside once the nighttime temperatures got consistently into the low 40's. The temperature inside is obviously general room temperatures. The trees are mostly within a few feet of radiators, but right up against windows, which are a little drafty. The humidity in the apartment, given the heat, is pretty low, contrasted with the humid summer weather they got here in the Northeast. I have humdifiers I haven't used and am going to try to see if they help at all. The lighting inside is generally pretty poor and indirect, but I have a CFL light of variable size on each plant . I don't want to use too much power, but wanted something supplemental, hence the CFL's. "Have you ever over fertilized?" Not that I know of. Outside during the summer, I'd give the trees a scoop of blood meal mixed with a little kelp each time and sometimes I'd mix in a more balanced N-P-K fertilizer whose name escapes me. This would be done every 2-3 weeks. I also once in a while mixed in some old coffee and occasionally urine (both are free sources of N) mixed into the water. The plants seemed perfectly happy with all of this, and everything grew nicely the whole summer with almost no problems. Since moving the plants in, I have done much less fertilization (I had heard it should be scaled back when plants are more dormant and indoors under sub-optimal conditions). All I've done is mix in some old coffee with their water when I have it in my house. Their water has been NYC tap water since being inside.

Hi casnavy, Welcome to Garden Web. I'd suggest you try asking at the link below. If they can't help, you might also try The Fruit and Orchards Forum. Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Trees Forum

Could be the well water. If its unprotected by wind, they hate wind when young. Over fertilization can also cause it. Gary

Super! Others will chime in, and probably do a much more in depth job than I. I'll start you off though with what I feel comfortable with. 1. No, I didn't root prune. First time I repoted 4 5 years ago, the roots were were wrapped around the soil. The second time I repoted, to the actual pot, 2 or 3 years ago the roots hadn't grown so much as the first time. 2. I used regular house plants potting soil with neutral ph (7 i think). The soil is rather airy, not dense or heavy. It has good drainage I think. When the time comes, youre going to want to strip all that soil off, bare root it, and prune 1/3 of the roots away. Any that are old (brown), dead, circling, or taproot looking (growing straight down). Keep all the thin hairlike fibrous roots, they are what you need for a healthy plant. Get rid of all that bagged soil media is step one. [Here is a link you will find especially helpful![(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/why-root-prune-when-you-repot-dsvw-vd~2025020) 3. I'm watering once a week during winter time, and once every 4-5 days in summer. I pour approximately 1 liter of water. It is water from my own water source, so it is not treated with anything. I have just a couple of filters in place at the pump. Are any of these filters salt based? When you water, can you bring that big plant somewhere where youre flushing the soil well at least once a month? Don't water on a schedule, water when the plant needs it. Best way I have gleaned from others here it to use a wooden dowel (1/4" and 5/16" fit in a pencil sharpener!) and insert it all the way to the bottom of the pot. Count to ten and pull it out. If it's wet, wait to water. You want to water when just the sharpened tip of the dowel is moist. This thread is HUGE, and very intimidating. trust me, it will solve all your issues and get you back to enjoying this coffee tree! Take the time to read it and all the comments. TRUST ME! :) 4. To be honest, not really. I put some fertilizer in the water especially from March to October, but not I'm not rigurous about it. I often forget. Then from October to March rarely. And I used some fertilizer for palm trees or tropical plants, found in the supermarket. I'm quite afraid of not using too much... As you'll see in that thread, you want to use at least some fertilizer. if you don't have the desire, time, or want to add fert at a low dose at each watering, that's ok! At the very least add some Controlled Release Fertilizer (CRF). A lot of folks here (myself included) use Dynagro Folaige Pro 9-3-6. I use it at the maintenance dose which is 1/4tsp per gallon at each watering, and flush the soil often. Further reading and discussion on fertilize in containerized plants can be found here. Long read, but again, TRUST ME! 5. The tree is positioned near a glass door which is facing east, and there's another window facing south. I would say it has enough light from the end of March until October. Right now the sun rises at 8 and sets just after 5 in the evening, so pretty short days. Also most of the days it is overcast from November until March. I am by no means a Coffee tree grower, i'll let other determine if this is enough light or not. From what I have briefly read they are a tolerant species capable of full sun to limited light such as an east window. 5a. I never got it outside, no. I wanted to, but never decided where I should position it, as to no have the foliage "burned" by direct sunlight. It will love the outdoors, lets see what more experienced growers suggest for where to put it. 6. Romania, Eastern Europe. Equivalent to USDA hardiness zone 7a to 6b. Similar to me. Don't repot or prune until around the end of May. The plant will need to build up energy reserves after a dark winter, and this allows enough time for it to recover and rebuild more energy reserves after you work on it. Not that you can't do it all now, but the tree won't be happy about it. Patience.