Lost of issues post pre-dry wall meeting for a new home
5 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (27)
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
Related Discussions
New to Gas Cooktop & Completely Lost
Comments (18)For a 36" five burner cooktop, I also would look at the less expensive DCS or even a Bosch which, IIRC. is sold by AJ Madison for under $900. The Bosch has standard sealed burners. so not as versatile as the DCS. [EDITED TO ADD: just saw bmorepanic's post and I defer to the greater knowledge there on Bosch and Dacor.) My experience with cleaning sealed cooktops is that stainless is no easier to clean and sometimes harder because it can scratch more easily than a porcelain enamel surface. What I've found makes a big difference is the depth of the burner wells and the material used for the burner hardware. With deeper wells (typical of the more "pro-style" appliances), the cooktop surfaces are a but further away from the flames, so less bakes on. The porcelain-coated single-cap burners on the Bosch will require scrubbing with Barkeeper's Friend (BKF) where (I think) the DCS is using brass components which are less likely to stain and spot. I'm guessing the Dacor will be similar but have no experience with it. I have my doubts about a magically more easy cleaning surface. I wound up buying an NXR stove a few months back. It has no magic anything and it's cooktop is one of the easiest to clean that I have owned. Only induction was easier and that was mainly because I didn't have to move the big grates. And speaking of induction, your stainless pots may or may not be induction suitable. You need to test with a magnet. If a refrigerator magnet sticks, the pot will work on induction. However, a lot of stainless cookware is not magnetic. That said, induction has a lot to recommend it and there's a wealth of info and opinions here on the subject of induction cooktops. With your house being built, it probably would be a fairly simple thing to have a 240v 40a line installed for connecting an induction cooktop. Might want to have that done for future proofing in case you decide to swap out the gas for something else. As for fridges, top freezer models are the most energy and space efficient and the least expensive to buy. SO, I would psend a bit less on the cooktop and apply the savings to a bigger fridge. Seriously, a 14.4 cu. ft fridge is tiny for a house where you will be cooking on a 36" cooktop. Unless you shop everyday. The current Maytags are made by Whirlpool (which also owns and makes Amana and Kitchenaid and some of the Sears Kenmore brand). Pretty much any top-freezer you buy without an ice-maker or water dispenser is going to have about the same reasonably good reliability. (Consumer Reports most recent membership survey of 82,000 members who bought a top-freezer fridge since 2006 show all brands having a 7%-8% defect rate. With ice & water, Whirlpool top-freezers are about as reliable but it starts climbing with other brands and GE has defect rate of 13% for top freezers with ice and water). You might want to look at the 18 cu. ft M1TXEGMY or one of the 17 cu. ft. Frigidaires which will run $700 to $800. I have no recent experience with wall ovens, so I'll have to defer to others on that. The dishwasher choice is another one where you might be able to get something better. Maytags are a Whirlpool product. Some Whirlpool made DWs have reportedly shorted out and burned out the circuit boards and several have started fires. Do a search here and you will find people with some pretty strong opinions and links to the sites discussing the controversy. Consumer Reports generally favors Bosch, Miele, and Kitchenaids DWs in more or less that order. They like the Bosch Ascenta line best, some of which can be had from AJ Madison at the same prices as the Maytag "77" model you selected. IIRC correctly, the Ascenta's are supposed to cycle a load in 95 minutes while the Maytags run between 115 and 125 minutes, and the Bosch DWs are generally regarded as noticeably quieter that the Maytags and Whirlpools. The microwave is a commodity product as you've doubtless already discovered. This post was edited by JWVideo on Mon, Feb 18, 13 at 23:37...See MoreX-Post - Walnut Veneer Issues
Comments (58)There are several problems here as I see it. First and foremost being the fact that someone let these out of the shop like this. That right there is very concerning. As LWO stated this attempt at a "Henerybuilt " look was done by a shop that is not capable of that level of work. I've done this kitchen a few times. You have to be well versed in all aspects of the trade to pull this off well. Mostly you have to care even if it cost you. As far as the defects most of what I see is glue over spray that was not properly cleaned off then showed up when a clear coat was applied. This banding was not done with a machine but by hand with contact cement spray. An edge bander doesn't leave that kind of glue behind or it would be pointless. This glue needed to be cleaned off with a solvent and sanded carefully. These are common problems with low-tech equipment and unskilled labor. There could also be some burn through of the veneer where it meets the banding which is where that is going to happen when you are trying to level out the face especially if what I suspect what was used was off the shelf pre laid-up walnut plywood veneer which is really thin. This also has to do with the dent and ding issue. The thin veneer but mostly the substrate it's bonded to. The way a company like Henerybuilt and the way I also do it is to use selected architectural veneer in raw bundle form and have it laid-up yourself. The quality and thickness of the veneer is much higher and you can request any substrate you want like Medex which is what I like to use. I wouldn't ever use the 1/8" wood banding (either does Henerybuilt) don't like to see a seam around the door. Just use the thicker edge banding 1.2mm and blend it in. Sorry none of this what should have been done helps you right now but the more you know the better you can make your case. The main issue is the glue and the clear coat. Never heard of catalyzed enamel unless you mean catalyzed varnish. Don't have a lot of experience in extreme temperatures (it's 80 today here in LA) but I know there can be all kinds of curing problems and the materials have a recommended range of use. Even here many people use equipment to heat the material and temp controlled rooms for a better finish. As far as a fix without knowing exactly what was done it's hard to say if anything can be done. Stripping off the finish and cleaning the glue if veneer isn't damaged then re-coating is a long shot. Making new doors is probably the way to go. I would just address the issue of the discoloration with them and see what they have to say about that and how they plan to correct it before I got into telling them how to do their job correctly. Let us know....See MoreBuilding a new craftsman style home. Builder wont fix major issues!!
Comments (63)Just to be clear, I don't see causation for the developer, it isn't that you and your attorney can't argue causation for the developer, feel free to sue him and roll those dice, but it is an expensive get. Your chances of winning are much less than they are against the builder, and you are unlikely to be awarded attorney fees on a negligence case with this many questions. You must show that the developer had a duty and but for neglect of that duty your house would not have these issues. There are many problems with this assertion, first, and hardest to overcome, is if you knew the approved builders before you bought the lot then you found them acceptable. You have to prove that the developer had a duty to the homeowner. Someone please tell me how selling a lot with certain covenants and restrictions creates a duty for him to fully insure the benefit of those covenants and restrictions that supersedes your acceptance of those covenants and restrictions. That is just one of the three things that you are going to have difficulty overcoming. Once you establish duty, you have to show that there was no reasonable action available that would negate the damage, noting that there are other builders available you would have to prove that they all have similar issues. Once you get past that, you have to prove that the developer actually neglected his duty, which since he has kicked the builder off the development is another tough get. It just seems like a tough win, that is going to cost more than you end up with. Sorry, but that is my opinion. ---------------- Along with my father I have developed several mixed use developments (homes, apartments and shopping), and I am currently a member of an LLC developing a small shopping/condo warehouse district development. I am not saying the developer will not want to help, I am saying as a developer, access is the leverage I have (the money that builders can make from me). Once the builder is removed he is going to tell me to go pound sand. I will happily testify on your behalf if need be, however, if I start paying for things to get done I am opening myself up to an argument that I accepted responsibility. As much as I want financing and publicity to be positive, that has to happen on the front end. I can't start paying for the mistakes that builders make without opening myself up to being responsible for every problem by every homeowner....See MoreFixing Versus Home Warranty - HVAC Issues
Comments (64)I love that I can count on some good discussion points and varying viewpoints here on Houzz. I am sticking with thinking of a house as a depreciating asset, but you guys made me think about it and try to understand your logic and why you feel it is different than a car. Drive the car off the lot and you lose money. Live in a house for a year and see if it appraises at the same amount that an identical home that is new construction appraises for. Don't sink money into maintaining the house and it will go to pot and the building will be a tear down in 30 years. If I have two homes that have similar floorplans, square footage and finishes on similar lots in the same neighborhood and one is brand new and one is 30 years old the price tag of the brand new home is going to be higher than the price tag of the used home. It may be more than what it originally cost, but if I deduct all the expenses used to maintain the home, the taxes and the cost to insure the home and adjusted for inflation would have I realized a gain? Would I be better off if I had just purchased the land and let it sit for 30 years? What if I put a tiny house on the land and spent far less on maintenance, taxes, insurance? If I minimize the size of the house and maximize the investment into the land (best location I can afford) or get a larger house in a less desirable location? Based on my thinking if the house is appreciating as well as the land I would come out even regardless of location, but I think the smaller house in the more desirable neighborhood will yield a much higher profit. If I don't continue to invest in the house (maintenance) it will yield a loss, not a profit, but the land will still appreciate in value. I just don't see where the building is appreciating faster than inflation less expense. That means it is a depreciating asset. I don't have the data to validate my conclusion, but I do believe that the three most important consideration for a real estate investment are location, location, location....See More- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
Related Stories
REMODELING GUIDESOne Guy Found a $175,000 Comic in His Wall. What Has Your Home Hidden?
Have you found a treasure, large or small, when remodeling your house? We want to see it!
Full StoryECLECTIC HOMESMy Houzz: A Pre-Revolutionary Home for a Modern Family
A dedicated DIYer mixes colonial style with today's comforts to create a meaningful home for 5
Full StoryBEFORE AND AFTERSHouzz TV: See Recycled Walls and Cool Cassette Art in a Woodsy DIY Home
Walnut countertops join hardwood floors and pieces made from leftover framing in a bright Spanish colonial
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDES11 Reasons to Love Wall-to-Wall Carpeting Again
Is it time to kick the hard stuff? Your feet, wallet and downstairs neighbors may be nodding
Full StoryBUDGET DECORATING9 Tricks to Boost Your Home’s Appeal for Less Than $400
Whether you’re redecorating or just doing a quick update, check out these ways to enhance your home on a budget
Full StoryHOUZZ TVRetired Houston Couple Replaces Starter Home With Forever Home
See how the Elders built their dream home while preserving the memory of the home they lived in for nearly 4 decades
Full StoryFLOORS10 Ways to Make the Most of Your Home’s Original Floors
Save yourself the cost of replacing your old floorboards with these tips for a new finish
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSHouzz Tour: Farmhouse Meets Industrial in a Restored New Jersey Barn
Amish craftsmen, trusting clients and an architect with a vision save a historic barn from a complete teardown
Full StoryGREAT HOME PROJECTSHow to Get That Built-in Media Wall You Really Want
New project for a new year: Tame clutter and get a more stylish display with a media unit designed to fit your space just right
Full StoryLIFEHouzz Call: Show Us Your Nutty Home Fixes
If you've masterminded a solution — silly or ingenious — to a home issue, we want to know
Full Story
User