It does appear to be overwatered.... Not sure if it can be saved... Honestly, it would cost less time to just buy a new one, but there are things you can do to try and save it. You will not be able to save the majority of the plant. Rather, you will need to cut off a portion and root it. That portion will have to have absolutely no rot on it, or it will not survive. Cut off a completely healthy segment, and dust it with cinnamon. let it sit for a few days in a cool and dry place. After that time is up, stick it in some dry soil, making sure you place it right side up. DO NOT WATER UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THERE ARE ROOTS. That is the most important thing to remember. when roots appear and leaf buds start to show, then you can water a bit.

How to Revive a Dying Lucky Bamboo Check Your Water Source and Stay Away from Chlorinated Water. Keep a Consistent Temperature. Maintain the cleanliness of the Bamboo bowl. Avoid over- and under-watering. Fertilize once or twice a year. Remove any dying or dead leaves and stems. Allow for Indirect Lighting. Insects must be removed from the plant.

What kind of water do you use? As its possible that there are high levels of contaminants in the water which can be bad for lucky bamboo and cause it to slowly decline over time.. However I have had my lucky bamboo lose a lower leaf or two due to not getting enough water as mine requires refilling every couple of days or it gets a little fussy.. Also you want tge roots to have room to grow and extend and keeping the stalks out of the humiditts inside of the jar is also a good idea.. You should fill the whole jar up to allow for more room for the roots to grow, and it would also allow for a bit of airflow to the roots. Hope this helps :)

Fee Bee - While your plant won't like going completely dry, it will tolerate a medium that is overly dry far better than one overly wet. For your plant, it is best to water just before the grow medium is completely dry. The advice to "water when the top inch or two of soil feels dry" is pretty much a recipe for over-watering unless the pot is around 5" deep or less. What is most important is the moisture level deep in or at the bottom of the pot. Since your finger isn't useful for determining how wet the soil is deep in the pot, we need to look to another tool. A wooden 'tell', made from a piece of wood dowel rod (any hardware of home improvement store) is extremely useful for determining moisture levels deep in the pot. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al