Split point bits are supposed to reduce "walking" in metal and geometry of the tip of the drill has an effect on how well it drills in metal. It's not going to make a difference in something like wood. Brad point bits work well to eliminate walking but are only available in larger sizes. In smaller bits, the "brad" would be so small that it would probably break.

In wood use a center punch, nail, or awl to give yourself a starting point. That should reduce the chance of the drill bit walking.

If you drill a lot of holes where accurate placement is important you might think about investing in a small drill press.

Split point is great for metal, but will work adequately in wood, like any other twist drill; brad point is a wood bit. Really better in a drill press as they tend to grab in certain softwoods. There are hybrid point designs that have no grabbing issues and don't tear out on the back side. A brad point will tear out unless backed. The Festool wood bits are one such hybrid.

Casey

You might consider Forstner bits in the smaller sizes. That design in larger sizes is best used in a drill press, but the smaller sizes are fine hand held.Forstner

Or, Spade bits

Thanks for all the tips! I do generally use a nail to punch a small hole to start with; I was hoping brad points would let me skip that step. I guess I won't worry about it much, then. I may buy this set.

And I always back my holes. I didn't realize my brad points (or my pilot points) might be causing the "exit wounds." I don't know that I remember seeing them back before my Dad bought me those DeWalt bits, but I do know that I just always clamp a piece of wood behind the workpiece.

Thanks for the links--off to read...

HandyMac, do Forstners or Spades really come that small? The smallest Forstner in that photo is 1/4", and I'm looking to replace the smaller ones.

There are brad point sets with small sizes, starting at 1/8". You can buy individual bits on this web site

and This one

ooh, thanks, HandyMac!

They're expensive, though.