Lora, I am talking about an automated lighting system. Ours is hard-wired. We went this route over the wireless because there is not a delay reaction with the hard-wired system. What we love about this is that all the lights and all the switches are wired into the system. We can turn on any light from any room and have 'themes' for the house. For example, when I am cooking, I turn on a button I named 'Kitchen High' which turns on the undercabinet lights, the pendants, and all the can lights in the kitchen. There is also a lightswitch that is named 'Entertain' which lights up the whole house when the guests come. In our bedroom, there is a 'goodnight' light and a 'good morning' light. These lights are set to a certain brightness so 'goodnight' is a lot less brighter. Our 'good morning' light comes on low and gets brighter after a few seconds so you don't go blind in the morning with all the lights in your face. What is cool about the system is that every switch is dimmable and can be controlled by pressing and holding the buttons. What is also cool is that you can have fun naming your lightswitches. For example, the lighting guy wanted us to go with a 3 button switch in the powder room aptly named #1, #2, and Mexican. I thought it was funny, but my husband did not want to go with it. There are also many safety features that can be tied in with the lighting system. I was against the lighting system from the beginning because it is expensive, but I have to admit that I LOVE it now for its convenience and ease. Also, there are not tons of ugly gangs of lightswitches when we went this route. I hope this answer some of your questions, but if you have more, let me know and I will be happy to answer them.

I'd like to know where you ended up with this. I live in RI and have the same problem. Bought and old house years ago, now have kids, and of course now radon is testing high. First thing I did was buy a radon monitor. It's called the "Corentium Digital Radon Gas Monitor". You can buy it online for $245. I've had mine for 6 weeks and has told me a lot about the radon levels in my house. Craziest thing is that radon levels fluctuate day to day and can vary a couple of points so the 2-day tests are in my view, worthless. Also radon levels vary seasonally. The best radon test is an average over a year, with a minimum reading of a week. What's great about a continuous monitor is that you can tell hourly if the radon levels drop because of your mitigation. FYI opening windows does work for about a day then they go right back up again; great for summer, chilly in winter. My basement is mostly old poured concrete (more like a rat slab) and I have some open dirt sections. My plan this summer is to take up the old slab and install a proper radon pipe grid, cover with gravel, then poly, then top with new concrete. That should give me a better, drier, basement and also eliminate radon from the slab. I'll pipe it for a passive system and if it doesn't work I'll add the fan. It's unlikely that you or I have a decent layer of gravel under the old basement slab so any point suction mitigation won't work. that works in newer foundations that have the gravel but not the piping. The second thing is a perimeter drain. This will relieve the pressure against the outside wall and vent the water and radon gas to daylight. Radon gets sucked through the rubble walls by stack-effect so I plan to put a layer of poly against the foundation to act as a vapor barrier, then a perimeter drain product by Eljen. Good luck, we'll both need it.

I generally prefer to use better known brands and water-based if the project is important or the materials are expensive to replace. Be careful, it is not silicone-based, it is solvent-based (petroleum distillates) with a small amount of silicone in it. Only use it on porous materials and don't use it near plastics, fiberglass, painted surfaces, asphalt or plastic foams. Try a sample first; it may darken/discolor masonry materials. The fact that they misuse the term "sealant" in their product name is irritating to me but I'm old and intolerant of people who take liberties with long-standing construction industry specification terminology. And the use of the term "professional" as a registered trademark irritates me too. I guess they thought "deluxe" had been overused.

@avaaustin The process of attaching fiberglass mesh to ceramic/porcelain tile differs from natural stone processing. Mesh on the back of ceramic mosaic usually doesn't have a layer of glue between the mesh "cells". At same time, the main reason of "resin backing" attached to natural stone is to reinforce it and fiberglass mesh is attached using a "glue" that is mostly polyester. It, first, adds an impervious layer to the back of stone and can significantly reduce the evaporation. Secondly, there could be problems with how well the bond is between the mesh and the substrate since dry set or polymer-modified mortars don't adhere to it very well. True porcelain tiles, whether sealed or unsealed, have >0.5% water absorption. At same time, marble is a translucent stone that will still absorb moisture as vapor even after an impregnating sealer is applied. I can't tell you whether Bulletproof sealer will help you in your situation. With properly installed water-in, water-out system and stone with no "resin backing" it is best to avoid any sealer. That's my strong opinion. Sealing the stone but not sealing the grout will not make any difference. Impregnating sealers are all considered permeable but if there is trapped moisture under the stone unsealed grout won't help.