As a painter, I would lightly sand, prime with Kilz then paint

Thanks, any paint you recommend? I read not latex paint because it sticks? How long do you think this would take roughly?

Btw, its a real wood bookcase- not laminate. Do I still need the primer?

It looks black to me, about the same color as the sofa, so I would not necessarily change the color. The bookshelves seem over loaded and not very attractively arranged. I'd really rather see a bigger bookcase, perhaps 9' wide on that wall. IKEA's Billy bookcases are a good choice if there is an IKEA near you.

Latex does stick. Now I know why 9 years after painting a 50's blonde bedroom dresser and bookcase headboard...whatever gets set on it does stick. I always attributed it to using a paint with primer in it, rather than 2 coats of paint, leaving the first one to dry thoroughly! So definitely do use Kilz. A lighter coat, let dry, than another coat perhaps...let it dry very well, than, use the color paint you want. I think a paint that has a minimum amount of tinting in it works best for surfaces. I wonder if using a deck paint for that 3rd coat, since it is shelves, would make it dry better. Those horizontal surfaces definitely react differently to paint, and if you want to make it lighter, after you use a fine grit sandpaper for the very first step ! to rough it up a bit or remove the sealant, probably laquer finish too????(the paint store knows the tricks of what to use or the painter that posted here earlier) Just tossed out some ideas from experience that was not too goood.... Enjoy your 'new' shelves!

Well, what color you paint it will totally depend on where it will go in your new location. Before moving, think about going through the books and making sure you really want to keep each one. Give away or sell the ones you no longer want. Why do you want to paint it. Is it already painted brown and the paint is chipping? Or is it stained brown and you're tired of the brown?

When you are moved and rearranging the books on the bookcase, try placing some of the books in stacks, one on top of another, instead of vertically. So, mix the horizontal and vertical stacks, placing framed photos or interesting objects in with the books. Some of the objects could act as bookends. Others could go on top of a horizontal stack. And try to leave empty spaces along the way so that the bookcase doesn't look overcrowded.

After you paint it with a latex paint then seal with a water base poly so items will no stick to the finish.

Sherwin Williams makes a wonderful door and cabinet paint (latex but it is called a hybrid alkyd) that dries hard. It is expensive but well worth the money. Primer is necessary for any job. Prep and sanding make it stand out. I wet sand between coats finishing up with 600 to 1000 grit. Use a paint extender (Floetrol) to have better flattening and a firm foam roller to prevent brush marks. Paint and dry flat to prevent drips. It is possible to get a professional finish, but akes time. Good

That bookcase isn’t worth expending money and effort. Paint the wall instead. A gallon of a color would go a LONG way in pulling this very sterile room together. The dark would integrate as is, without changing it. A lighter grayer version of your pillow, maybe.

When I paint over a previously finished surface I clean well, lightly sand to mute any glossiness - vac and tack cloth after the sanding to pick up the fine dust, prime with Zinsser 123 (or Zinsser BIN if the surface is really slick and can't be de-glossed) twice, especially if covering a dark surface. Then I topcoat, twice if needed, with a latex acrylic enamel. I use Diamond Vogel Nu-Cling, but many of the good paint companies have a similar product or the newer cabinet paints. If you use a good topcoat in satin or semi-gloss, there is no need to top coat with a polyurethane. The paint is washable and if a touch up is needed, that poly topcoat just makes it harder to do.

Yes - you need a stand alone primer - a paint and primer combo is not good enough. I use Zinsser, but the Kilz is good too. Primers can take a while to completely cure. They dry quickly, but it may be days before cured so be careful with your newly painted project till the cure time is up or you may chip it. You can paint over the primer after the stated drying time, but the cure time is longer - read the can.

Painting on bare wood requires a good primer too.

Sophie, she's moving to a new house/apartment, as yet unknown, from what I understand. So I'm not really sure why she wants to paint the bookcase.

Painting this bookcase is more of a project in both time and cost ( paint and sand paper,primer, sealer, tack cloths,brushes,etc.) than it seems to warrant. You'd get more bang for your buck de-cluttering,re-arranging and adding a beautiful accessory or two.

The reason I am trying to paint the bookshelf is for it to be white and less jarring. We already have a bookshelf to store out current book "collection", which will not be expanding, so I thought to just paint it rather than procure a new one.

However, I am sensing like @hollybar said, the time might not warrant it and I'd be better off getting a new bookshelf.

How DIY inclined are you?

If you don't like the dark bookcase but are not wanting to ruin it with paint, consider another option.

You could cut the bookcase in half and add a light colored shelving board atop the two halves to link them, giving you a lower cabinet with shelves with a lighter look. The new shelving board top could be a wider/deeper board than the current shelves are. Depending upon how wide your bookcase is, you might even be able to find a "threshold" board or "staircase step" board -- thicker board w/one rounded corner -- that is long enough to use as a top.

You have two shelves with legs on the bottom; cut off the top in a way that gives you two shelves with legs.

If you use the wider shelving board, you may even be able to add not only an overhang in the front but one in the back enough to cover adding a back to the bookcase that you could paint a bright accent color before adding it or you might decide to add three vertical boards as three back legs to help sturdy it and help it support more weight.

By the time you add up all the supplies--primer, paint, sandpaper (s), brush, tack cloths and your time, you will have spent quite a lot. IMO not worth it for that piece.

Wait you get to your new location and decide then, unless you have oodles of time now and are sure you want to paint it white. White walls are very in right now so you might want to consider leaving it brown to contrast with lighter walls.

Agree with[w/ Carolyn Albert-Kincl, ASID. ]. Wait until you get to your new location to decide. You need to know if your shelving suits and fits your new space as is or changed.

If you don't add a back or legs or paint any of it, if you just add a top board to the two halves via screws to the bottom, your cost would be that top board, a few screws and a whatever you use to finish that board.

I use a damp rag rather than tack cloth. Brushes should be washed and keep for a good long time. Primer and paint are costly. You'll only need a single sheet of sandpaper for the job if wood is in good shape.

I painted 30 year old oil finished oak plywood bookcases last year and am delighted with the results. A lot of coats and a lot of sanding but it's easy work as primer, paint and poly all dry very quickly and there weren't any tricky areas.

Scrub them clean, sand lightly to knock down any rough areas and wipe off the dust, prime with the correct product which depends on what you are covering and sand/wipe again, paint with matte/flat paint 1-2 coats and sand very lightly then use a wipe on polyurathane. Do several coats of the poly sanding with 400 grit sandpaper and wiping down between coats. No tackiness [blocking] when you do this. It's the semi gloss and above that block. Satin and flat/matte don't do it as much apparently. I did satin on the kitchen cabinets and no blocking there either.

Have to agree though. Wait and see if you want to do this in the new place. Maybe dark will work better. I was very happy with the way the book spine colors pop against the light gray paint I used though. And no blocking at all!