The standard backset distances are 2 3/8 and 2 3/4. and have been since long before 1989. That is the distance from the center of the hole to the door edge. Exterior door hardware is almost always 2 3/4 setback. There is however no standard distance between the hole for the latch and the hole for the deadbolt. I have some that are 3 5/8 and 5 1/2 both from emtek. other manufacturers will be different. The hole for the lock and latch are generaly 2 1/8" dia. Sometimes a deadbolt hole is as small as 1 3/4" Small holes can always be drilled larger. If you can't find a handle set that matches the center distance of your drilled holes, There are many sets available that have the deadbolt completely separate from the handle, and can be installed at any distance. A lot of times the phrase "they don't make that any more" means "Home Depot doesn't sell that type and I'm to lazy/stupid to look on the internet". If you don't want your house to look exactly like your neighbor's, you have to shop on the web.

BINGO! I received an e-mail response from hardwoodlumberandmore.com with a link to an oil-based paint base. The product description recommends it for paint as a clear finish use and even cites the article. I called and spoke with Steve Mickley, a friend of the guy who did the control test with doors in his backyard. He wrote an article which expands the original one bobsmyuncle has linked on this forum. He was very helpful and encouraging. My doors are pine and probably original to the 50-year-old house. He cautioned against sanding to remove the finish so as not to remove the patina. He said if I use a chemical stripper, the pine should take stain evenly without having to use a conditioner. Drats! It would have been easy to sand the finish off these doors, but I'm going to follow his advice. My other problem is that we're consistently having temperatures of 108-110 degrees here. While miserable, I can sand when it's that hot, but the chemical stripper just bakes onto the finish. Moreover, the new finish shouldn't be applied in extreme heat either. My hardware, glass and finish should all arrive next week. I'm going to hope for a cold front, so I can get this project done. Here is a link that might be useful: oil-based paint base (as a clear finish)

Welcome to GW! With all of the decisions that you're making as you build your house, I hope you find lots of answers and helpful advice here. From what you've described, I think a nickel finish would look classic and beautiful. (I'll admit some bias because I have a Georgian colonial with white trim & door with nickel hardware!) I'd be concerned about ORB retaining its finish when exposed to the elements. I know people talk about it being a "living finish" that changes over time, at least in the interior hardware and faucets. Hopefully someone who has ORB exterior hardware will chime in with their experience. Good luck!

Ksc36 - I disagree with you about the composite door jambs. Do you actually have a door with them? I drank the marketing Kool-aid when I ordered my new door, and chose the composite door jambs that replaced the 25-year-old wood door jambs. I am wondering if you did same. The wood jambs are heavier, feel solid. The composite door jambs feel light, and not solid. I should have realized that the composite door thing is a way for door companies to charge more for something that is much cheaper for them to manufacture, and so they made up a bunch of hooey to make people buy them. Sounds great in the brochures though. The owner of the door contracting company told me he has begun steering his customers away from the composite jambs now that he's had some experience with them.