We bought one at Ikea several months ago (one of the few things I've ever bought there). I LOVE it. Out of the way when I don't want it, right there when I do, doesn't take up precious counter space. My one wish is that it adjusted up and down better (I have facial hair issues due to PCOS and need to be able to see my chin/neck as well as my face.) I figure I'll upgrade to a fancier one when we remodel the master suite. Big tip: Make sure you try out both sides of the mirror before buying (without glasses/contacts if you normally wear them, too). That's actually what led to me getting the Ikea one (that and the really cheap price tag). I could actually see reasonably well on both sides.

I'm definitely not an expert, but we did just remodel a 1928 bathroom. Our ceiling and walls were pretty wonky. I am guessing if your ceiling is off, places in the walls are off - it's probably not even consistent on one wall! I don't feel like it was from settling (our house is brick) but more like the nuances of plaster. Because we had to live in this bathroom and were DIY, gutting it was not an option, however we both agree that would have been the best choice. It would have helped with electric, plumbing, setting the tiles easier, etc... We elected to do Durabond to smooth out the surfaces where we could. The walls weren't sanded down very far - just to get the paint to scuff. Any plaster that wasn't sound did break off from the vibration, and that meant that the area truly needed to be repaired a little more deeply.

Hi Sophie, I have seen the "wrap" you link above. This is not a option for me. It would cover the window. And it is very flimsy. But the replacing the plumbing is a great idea when I do the other walls. But I can only focus on the back wall right now due to budgeting issues. Safety first, looks laters. BTW the laminate on the wall was put in by the original builder did remolding in the late 60's. I have alway used a back shower curtain to protect the back wall, The whole bathroom walls are covered from floor to 4 ft with this same color laminate/Formica. I know ---I need to get you guys better pictures. Also the original builder was a farmer who built it for his son- in- law. Not a professional. He cut corners and did not spend any money to do things correctly. I have over the years correct some major mistakes, but now I can not. All I can do is simple stuff.

Btw, I searched for relevant codes and found the following: R304.1 Minimum area. Every dwelling unit shall have at least one habitable room that shall have not less than 120 square feet (11 m2) of gross floor area. R304.2 Other rooms. Other habitable rooms shall have a floor area of not less than 70 square feet (6.5 m2). Exception: Kitchens. It also states: In typical houses, all living, sleeping, eating or cooking areas qualify as habitable spaces. Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage or utility spaces aren’t defined as habitable, for any dwelling. But anyway you slice it, even with the remodeled floorplan the upstairs certainly meets the minimum requirements. The master bedroom is a little over 120 sq ft, and the second bedroom is over 70 sq ft (approx 90 sq ft). Even if the master bedroom didn't quite meet 120 sq ft, other habital areas such as the downstairs living room is well over 120 sq ft, so it'd just need to exceed 70 sq ft, which it certainly does. The only codes I could find regarding bathrooms were ceiling height (which wouldn't be an issue) and minimum distances between toilet, sink, shower and tub: A minimum space of 21 inches must be planned in front of lavatory, toilet, bidet, and tub. A minimum space of 24 inches must be planned in front of a shower entry. The minimum distance from the centerline of the lavatory to a wall is 15 inches. The minimum distance between a wall and the edge of a freestanding or wall-hung lavatory is 4 inches. The minimum interior shower size is 30x30 inches or 900 square inches, in which a disc 30 inches in diameter must fit. A minimum distance of 15 inches is required from the centerline of a toilet and/or bidet to any bath fixture, wall, or other obstacle. I don't see a problem with meeting any of these (depending on size of tub or shower, toilet, sink, etc.), which is why the plumbing issue seems to be the sticking point to me.