Almost there, the Canadian imports just arrived, the Belgium one is in transit. The collection now includes: EPIPACTIS [gigantea [gigantean âÂÂSerpentine Nightsâ [helleborine [mairei [palustris ???[roleyana //////thurnbergii [x Sabine (E.gigantea and E.palustris) These are all the available Epipactis I could find, I'm sure there are more. The ??? in front of royleana means it's in transit, has left Belgium but not yet arrived. //// in front of thurnbergii means it's out of stock but I should be able to get it next spring from the same Belgium vendor as roleyana. Epipactis mairei is beginning to bloom, will post a picture in the gallery in a couple of days. Nick

I did it myself in my previous dining room. It takes a lot of planning and precision, a level, caulking gun, miter box, nail set. My DR already had a chair rail. If you don't have one, the project is still do-able but probably a little more effort depending on the corners. I think mine looked professional. It is a matter of being neat and level and making clean cuts and sensical placement and sizes. Mine was not thick moulding. I was keeping it scaled small intentionally, but it would not have made any difference. My miter saw can handle much bigger wood than that. At roughly $50/hr (depending on your market), perhaps they are speculating a 10-hr job. That may or may not include time to acquire the materials. How big is the space? Does 10 hours make sense to you? Sounds about right for my pace and my 10x13 DR.. A pro should be faster. It also takes time to plan the frames sizes and just where the frames should go to be even and perhaps go around obstacles. I worked and reworked some of my placement issues for quite a time before I finally cut a piece of wood. Started on paper. It's not rocket science. You may want to be involved in that planning even if you go pro. As far as matching what you have, you can take a few pictures and measurements of your existing and go to a lumber store to make sure you can get the same material. I would bring home a sample to be sure before buying all of it. And always get 10% more than you think you need, maybe 20% more to be safe as a newbie. Those little pieces of wood on the left are my spacers to make sure each box is evenly spaced from the previous.

If you are trying to lighten up the room a bit, I would paint the inside walls of the window white to match the sill, and then place your picture moulding on the outer walls to frame the window. I think your window will appear deeper, and at the same time, bring additional light to the room.

And here's a blog post by the wonderful Laurel Bern on ceilings: https://laurelberninteriors.com/2018/02/18/ceilings-giving-nightmares/?utm_source=Laurel-Home+Blog&utm_campaign=0dea1268c3-free_offer_for_existing_subscribers5_20_2014&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_1b3ab7a4f2-0dea1268c3-80328673&mc_cid=0dea1268c3&mc_eid=c59cef7f07