Difference between sizes of air compressors

5 years ago

I want to buy a small, 120 volt household current air compressor to use with a stapler and brad nailer. What is the difference in functionality between a 1 gallon, 2 gallon, and 3 gallon air compressor? I'm looking at this on amazon: AIr compressors

Do they all do the same thing but the small ones take longer to recover?

I will be replacing screening on a porch.

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Marc Well

4 years ago

Common tank style types (Does it matter?)

Pancake – Pancake tanks are typically found on smaller (3 to 6 gallon) portable compressors. The compact design helps with portability in a smaller package.

Pontoon – This style is another common portable compressor design. It has a horizontal cylinder that looks similar to the pontoons on a pontoon boat. They are mounted horizontally and are also used in compressors with smaller capacities.

Twin Stack – Same as a pontoon tank, but there are two of them as the name implies. This style is used to increase capacity in a compact space on portable compressors.

Wheelbarrow – Some larger compressors have a larger pontoon style, but due to the weight of the tank and the other compressor components (such as the motor), they come with wheels and handles to help with moving them around the shop. You may find some twin-stack designs in a wheelbarrow configuration as well.

Vertical – Take a large pontoon style tank and tip it on its end. This is the configuration that is used mostly for larger tanks that are meant to be permanently mounted in one place.

As far as compressor capability and is concerned the tank style really doesn’t mean much – air storage space is air storage space, no matter what it looks like. Accordingly, capacity isn’t a function of tanks style but is directly related to the tank size. The different compressor tank designs are in place for the purposes of potential portability, available floor space for installation, and the overall size of the compressor.

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Comments (10)

geoffrey_b
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
For a stapler, or brad nailer, a smaller compressor will work fine. I wouldn't buy that one on Amazon - doesn't look like you can easily carry it. Go to a big box store (like Home Depot) and look at the compressors, pick one up. Buy a compressor you can carry (not one that's 60 - 70 lbs).

There are two pressures - the pressure inside the tank (say 100 lbs). But you set the pressure regulator so the air coming out of the tank is, say 40 lbs - the stapler will tell you the operating pressure. Once the air pressure in the tank drops, it will turn back on - so you will have a constant supply of low pressure air.
graywings123
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks!
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Hey baymee and green valley. Thanks for your responses. If I were to buy a 5HP air compressor, do I need 220V to run it? Or is 110V good enough? I think I'll probably go with an oil one versus the oil-less, since from what I read, they are supposedly quieter. baymee - what brand name and model did you buy a few years back? LOL! Probably can't find one like it, but it sounds like a good one. green valley - So CFM is dependent upon the true "running HP" versus the peak HP claim. I see where you've dealt with a number of air compressors, so any recommendations for a specific brand or two given what I've described as to how I intend to you it? What does the gallon capacity really signify then? Do I interpret this to be "air pressure" that is stored and available for a period of time before the air compressor "kicks in" and replenished the used air pressure supply? If this is so, do I interpret this to mean the larger the gallon capacity, the potential longer period of time 'in between' the air compressor sucking in new air to be stored? I probably 'sound' silly here, but am trying to understand the process/functionality of how the air compressor actually works too. Thanks again for any and or responses/comments/attaboys and/or "you dummy"'s. :) Trust me, I'm thicked skinned. LOL! bbbbosox
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Thanks to everyone for their feedback. Some extra info: There are two issues here, proper sizing and price. Regarding price, the research I did indicated that a reasonable price for the two systems together is $16K to $20K, counting the fact I am in a HCOL area. The two quotes so far have taken me by surprise, I will have at least 2 more next week and will provide an update. I am going through a similar issue with getting my sump pump system replaced - it is 8 years old and it looks like all of it needs to be replaced. The parts are $700, the first quote I received is for $2700 installed. Waiting on some other quotes. As far as sizing, the house is 3400sf plus a 900ft basement which is finished to a level comparable to the rest of the house, and is used a lot. I like to keep it at 72 or less to control the humidity, rest of house is warmer. Another factor is that the first and second floors have 10 ft ceilings, and the first floor is mostly open space, and I have a lot of windows, more than 50. I know I should have someone do a test, I might do that, but it is difficult enough to even get free quotes around here - many places want to count it as a service call. Currently, when the temp gets over 90, it is very hard to keep the upstairs below 80. The basement and a room over the garage were added after the initial HVAC installed, and both systems were then split into two zones. Interesting that one quote was based on sq ft measurements, the other was based on existing duct sizes and compressor sizes and taking down a history of how well it was working for me. Again, thanks, Andy
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User
5 years ago
Look at the dB rating. The small ones can be incredibly LOUD. We have a large 220 model located in the barn that we ran lines to the shop. I wanted one for the house garage to air up tires, or whatever. The only one that I could stand wasn't very cheap. It was just a lot less money to add more stainless steel tubing from the shop to the house.

I'll link to the one that I could stand to hear. The other thing about tank capacity is that the larger the tank, the longer you can go bleeding it without the motor starting back up. Small ones run a lot compared with larger ones. When they are small and LOUD, that can be pretty unbearable. The below is 83 dB. Outdoor dB is louder than indoors. Indoors concentrates the sound, if you want to locate it in a garage.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-20-Gal-Horizontal-Portable-Air-Compressor-PXCMPC1682066/203653368

Whatever you do, get plenty of hoses. If you have more hoses, the tank doesn't need to be as portable. You'll find lots of uses for it, beyond just installing screen molding.
User
5 years ago
Basically, oilless compressors are LOUD.Fine for framing and outside work, but not good at all for inside work. They are cheaper and more portable than the oil types.

Oil type are much more quiet, but heavier and more expensive. Having said that, I have a 5 gallon belt driven compressor with a 1/3HP electric motor I use in my wood shop for just the same reason ---brads and pins. It will run all my nailers and staplers. The unit is one my father had when I was a child---and I am 71 now. I also have a 3 gallon oilless model(similar to the one in your link) that regularly scares dogs and cats in customer houses.

The one you linked will work fine(LOUD!!!!!!!!) for your uses----but ditch that evil plastic coiled hose and get a flexible rubber one. And remember---with a 100' hose, you can put the compressor OUTSIDE!!!!! :-)

An 18 guage brad nailer will be the better nailer for installing wood splines or stops. A hand stapler will be much less expensive and actually the better choice than a pneumatic stapler.
User
5 years ago
Don’t buy online. Go to a local tool retailer. Where they can show you a thing or two live. Bigger is always better. The little ones run constantly in use. And don’t buy cheap. You will regret it. Or you’ll be wearing giant ear muff hearing protectors and have the neighbors sending you hate mail.
ksc36
5 years ago
For a homeowner these battery powered tools are all you should need.

https://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-nailers-and-staplers/milwaukee-nailers-and-staplers,default,sc.html
ksc36
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
This little portable compressor will almost keep up with a framing nailer. It claims to put out 2 hp. I wouldn't waste my money on those less than 1 hp models.

This one has lived in the back of my truck for 5 years or so, many times upside down...

https://www.toolbarn.com/griprite-gr152cm.html/

This one is a little better and still portable. I've had it about 15 years...

https://www.toolbarn.com/makita-mac5200.html/
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GN Builders L.L.C
5 years ago
Take a look at California air tools compressors, many models to choose from and very quiet perfect for the house.
rwiegand
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
I bought the Senco branded version of this one for little jobs and like it a lot. For my brad nailers, stapler, and finish nailer it keeps up just fine and is remarkably quiet. With the framing nailer it won't keep up if you're bounce nailing sheathing or something. It weighs a quarter of what my more serious "portable" compressor does and is way quieter, perfect for small jobs in the house or when I need to take it to one of my volunteer gigs that only involve finish work. I quite enjoy having it as an alternative.

Difference between sizes of air compressors

Marc Well

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geoffrey_b

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Difference between sizes of air compressors

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