There is also a product out there called "good bye cracks"

Hi mamaloukos. I feel your pain, as I have stained projects only to realize the color was all wrong. My solution was to start with the ROS, usually back at 150 grit, and continue back up to 220. Then do a final hand-sanding with the 220 in the direction of the grain. So the pictures aren't showing the finish really well, and you didn't say exactly what the problem was. Is the color wrong? Is it too light or too dark? Is the texture wrong (i.e., is it 'fuzzy' to the touch)? Is it too blotchy? Or some combination of these problems? And you said you used a GF water-based gel stain? I wasn't aware that they made a water-based gel - if that's what you used, it might be a relatively new product that behaves differently from its oil-based cousins. I use oil-based GF gel stains regularly for easy-to-match colors and typically find them easy to use. For things that aren't so easy to match, I use water-based custom dyes (I mix the colors myself, but I don't recommend mixing water-based dyes for the novice). Here's how I apply the oil-based gel stain: First, use a rag or a sponge. Make sure the gel is stirred well with no separation of thicker and thinner parts. It should be the consistency of pudding. Dip the rag/sponge into the can and wipe the stain onto the wood, going with the grain of the wood. Just do a small area at a time. Then wipe again with a different, clean, dry rag. Not dark enough? Wait longer before wiping with the clean, dry rag. Each time you re-dip and apply to another area, overlap with the previous area. If you find yourself waiting a very long time between application and swiping, and you like the color, you may be able to apply stain to an entire surface (e.g., the inside of the cabinet) before wiping it off. Keep in mind that if you plan to put a clear coat over the stain, the topcoat will make it look slightly darker. With gel stains, it's pretty easy to make it darker (even a week later) but it's tough to make it lighter. However, while the stain is still fairly wet, you CAN lighten it a bit by wiping with a different rag dipped in mineral spirits (IF and ONLY IF it's the oil-based gel stain). One other consideration: If the problem is splotching, or blotchy appearance after staining, which is common with soft woods like pine and alder, I apply a very thin coat of dewaxed shellac (Sealcoat - NOT regular shellac - made by Zinsser) before staining. Wait until it's dry to the touch, give it another very light hand-sanding at 220-grit, and proceed with the stain. That's a ton of info - hope some of it is helpful. Good luck. That will be a gorgeous cabinet.

So how did it turn out? I recently did something similar but took a different tactic so don't feel these sorts of things happen to just you. Here is my tale to make you feel better. I wanted to install a recessed cabinet. I saw lots of great looking ones on pinterest. I found this great web site WG Wood Products that had lots of options for you to custom order. Mentally I had placed several of these around the house. To test I ordered one with the extra depth, a door style to match my interior doors, extra glass shelves and I decided to order it in white as that is what my interior doors and wood trim is. The total cost for the unit was $625 including shipping. Definitely on the high side but if it looked as good as I thought it would I was willing to pay. I thought I would get painted wood. What showed up was MDF doors that look like an over the toilet cabinet from Walmart. I was crushed. When I e-mailed the company to complain they said it was wood. I tried to find a place on their web site that stated wood so I would protest and get my money refunded because I definitely have el cheapo MDF doors. Instead I found small print that said if you ordered the door in the style I did and in painted white it was made out of MDF instead of wood. I had no recourse. I took the stinky MDF doors off and put them in the garage. I am using the recessed cabinet for picture frames. It doesn't look that great without the doors and I'm temped the next time I need drywall repair to just take it out and throw it out. Total waste of $625. Your cabinet looks finely crafted. Hopefully you were able to fix the finish. The WG Wood products can be bought unfinished on discount web sites but I didn't take that route for the reason I didn't think I could finish it well. Unfortunately paying the company to finish it didn't work out for me either because they switched up the materials.

Good points, I understand where you are coming from re: sink -stove - pivot.. I'll have to take another look at that, it's just all the photo's I like of kitchens seem to have this symmetrical look... lavender_lass What is 'P' 'R' and 'MW' I'm guessing Microwave for the third??? RE: Is there a Dining Room elsewhere or is the "nook" space the only table space? (It looks like there is no other table space.) There is no other dining space, this will be a 'walk - out' basement suite.. So as good as it gets.. plenty of space really for 2 beds.. Hoping if we aren't living in it to get a professional couple who need a spare bedroom or a couple with 1 child.... Would you be willing to consider moving the table to the left and utilizing as much of the bay space as possible for the Kitchen? Would you consider replacing them with windows that are 36" off the finished floor Ans: No, it wouldn't be cost effective for us to do that, we are already moving walls and doors around... Would you consider a banquette? Ans: I'm not sure what you mean.. How many seats does the table have to accommodate? Ans: Probably 4 - 6 at a cosy stretch