"To remove permanent marker from vinyl floor. You can use acetone, Many individuals have claimed success with nail polish remover in removing permanent markers from vinyl and other surfaces. Let me caution you that acetone-based treatments evaporate fast, so you may need to use more of them to remove larger stains." Waiting for the return of Enholm and the inevitable verbiage change to SPAM.......................

OK. Stop trying to fix it with stuff. You have sprayed to floors with OIL! And you have tracked that oil around the house on your shoes. That's why it spread. Stop with the powder. You do NOT want to do that. It will stick to the oil and then - like sand paper - wear off your finish faster than you can say "help". We have to move to a "degreaser" that will NOT damage your finish. Is this a polyurethane finish or "oiled" finish? If this is polyurethane (your description makes me 99.999% sure it is) then you can use Windex - Original. Spray a cloth (not the floor) with the Windex and then wipe clean. Do this MULTIPLE TIMES. CLEAN YOUR SHOES! That grease is now travelling on the bottoms of your shows (called "transfer" or "contamination"). Use the Windex on every pair of shoes that have been worn since using the spray cleaner. If you do not feel the Windex worked, go ahead and use RUBBING ALCOHOL! It is the active ingredient in Windex Original. It is stinky. It can cause headaches if you do NOT have decent ventilation (open a window). The fumes are flammable so you must be careful around open flames (like a pilot light for a gas stove....oooops....we've seen that happen....ka-boom). Once the smell is gone the fumes are gone. If you feel the floors are clean of the spray but you still feel some squeak....it is because the spray has gotten between your planks (seams on an engineered floors are their greatest weakness). Go ahead and spray the alcohol directly on the floors in those areas....paying attention to get it in between the planks. If that doesn't help, you probably have to replace the planks. The contamination is TOO MUCH and the planks are not "cleanable". The Bona Cleaner isn't going to TOUCH the level of "degreasing" you need. You will need to throw out the mop head you've been using. It is now contaminated as well.

Your floors are stunning. The worst thing you can do to them (and your home) is to put a faux wood up against those dramatic floors. It will cheapen the look of BOTH of the floors. And remember: pine doesn't like to take a stain. It can be blotchy. It could be a horror show in the making. If the finish is in good shape, leave them alone. An original heart pine floor is worth a MINT! The longer you can allow it to 'live' the longer you can save your investment. Each time you sand/refinish, you remove 25 years of life from a floor. A wood floor normally has 60-80 years worth of life in them. A pine floor from this era will have 100 years but that's about it. If you do the math, you are VERY close to the end with this floor. I would leave it be if there is nothing wrong with the finish. Photos of your choices for kitchen products would be REALLY helpful. To be clear, tile is expensive. Not the MATERIAL...but the LABOUR. A hardwood floor is relatively inexpensive compared to tile or stone. In my neck of the woods (expensive Canadian city = NY City costs), a tile floor costs $12-$15/sf for LABOUR alone. The materials are extra. The tiles would be $5/sf...some thinset = extra; grout = extra; hardy backer board = extra. You could be looking at $25/sf by the time all the bills are paid. A reclaimed heart pine will be costly for MATERIALS but the labour is the same as any other wood floor. I would bet the materials would be $15/sf but the LABOUR to install/finish the wood floor will be $4-$5/sf. Done. Roughly $19-$20/sf (again, this is in MY area). Compare the cost of tile ($25/sf) to the cost of a matched wood floor ($20/sf). Hmmmm. Looks like the wood might be cheaper even though it "looks" more expensive. Remember: labour costs are the things that make building so expensive.

@Beth thanks so much! I actually have a sample can of pale oak, and I do really like the colour. The only thing I am finding is it picks up a lot of yellow/orange undertones in my house, which I am trying to avoid, I'm guessing it is a combination of exposure and the yellow in the pine flooring. In my south-facing room it reads almost orange, which I do not like at all. In my north-facing rooms it looks much better! I also got a sample can of paper white, but find that it reads too cool in all of the rooms, picking up a blue undertone. In my last 2 places I used stonington gray 50% lighter and I loved it, but I am trying to avoid blue undertones in this house and go outside of my comfort zone a little (I even decided to keep the south-facing room white, which I have always wanted to do but have been afraid to try!). In addition, both of these colors look much darker than I would like to have. The bed isn't completely assembled yet and I plan to paint the end tables lighter at some point soon, excuse the mess! This picture is taken in the evening, which is of course when the most time will be spent in this room! Paper white is on the left (too cool), and pale oak is on the right (too yellow!!) (Ignore the middle, it is a color-matched stonington gray that looks extremely purple!) Here in the daytime pale oak (right) still looks too orangey for me!! (and too dark) I am looking for a color that would be in the middle of these two, bm paper white and bm pale oak, for the main floor, that is also lighter. Most of the light in this house will come from lamps (no overhead fixtures in any bedrooms, or in the living room, which I am absolutely okay with as I prefer softer, warmer lighting). For the bedroom where I painted the samples, I have decided after keeping primed walls for a few days that I will keep it white, and am going to pick up my sample cans of simply white and chantilly lace today to see which one fits the room better! I am changing the curtains, and possibly the lampshades and throw pillows, so all I've really got are: - pine floors - a pine bed frame (headboard and foot-board are not installed yet but they look the same as the side) - clear glass lamp bases (shades may be changed to white) - area rug, either one of my jutes or a white and off-white rug -end tables have tops that match the bed, and the bases I will be painting lighter in the very near futue, It's a work in progress, of course. But this room will be either simply white or chantilly lace, with either white curtains or no curtains and just a shade or blind, and white on the end tables, with either a jute or white rug... slowly but surely. My husband is upstairs at this very moment repairing the plaster, so I get to paint in only a few short days!!!) I love the white walls with the pine floors, and am very tempted to paint the entire house white, but am afraid to do so and worry that it would lack depth. There are 2 bedrooms upstairs that only have one window each, north facing, and this is where I thought to do a seapearl-esque colour, or BM simply white if it holds up and doesn't turn dingy on me! sorry if this post is all over the place, I've got 2 little ones here asking for breakfast, which I better hurry up and make...