After growing Anne for 3 years, I'd definitely recommend support since every year - even with a post at each end and wires at 12 inches and 2 feet - they've almost bent to the ground under the weight of the fruit. I'd say to go with a t-post at each end and a wire at around 3 feet and maybe one at 4 feet also so that picking is easy and you can get your head under the leaves a bit to get all the ripe hiding berries. The nice thing about the yellows has been that their growth habit isn't as vigorous (invasive) as some reds so they should grow up for you next year but they aren't as anxious to take over the back yard as other varieties.

From a Google search of "planting raspberries": Hint: When planting bare root plants, use a hoe to make a trench 2" deep the length of the bed. Spread roots along the bottom of the trench and cover immediately. Larger bare root canes can be pushed down to proper depth trying to keep extra roots at the 2" level. This will promote suckers to develop from the roots. Set nursery mature and bare root plants 1-2 inches deeper than they were in the nursery. The soil line around the stem will indicate their nursery depth. Care should be taken that the hole is large enough to allow the entire root system to be covered. Spread the roots out in the trench and set at about 2 inches deep. Caution should be taken to prevent the roots from being planted too deep. The fine root system should not be allowed to dry during the planting process. This can happen very quickly on a warm, spring day. We suggest soaking the plants for up to 2 hours prior to planting and keep the plants in a pail of water as you plant. We also suggest the use of a product such as Agri-gel to prevent roots from drying. Special Note: New growth on raspberries may not appear for 4-6 weeks. The cane portion of the plant may never leaf out. Check for root development by gently digging 2-3 inches out from the cane of the plant. During this establishment period maintain good soil moisture until plants are growing well.

new canes on ESTABLISHED plants.. will be truer to form ... these canes will bear next summer.. and die ... being biennial ... yes you can string them up if you want.. but in the long run.. you probably wont have to do it .. ken

There are usually three ways to stake raspberries, hedgerow trellis systems, double T trellis or T trellis or V trellis systems. However, double T or T raspberry system is most suitable, although may have some cost increase in stake purchasing, but it does make a better harvest,because this system can give raspberry more light and more air and its steady structures successfully give their healthy growing great support. Staking in a right way is very promising for healthy and prosperous growth of raspberry, tomato and cucumber in Farms. Especially for raspberry, the stake systems may probably need to be supporting for around 10 years, which is nearly impossible for metal T posts and wood stakes going through. Watering and sun exposure bring fatal damage to wood and metal stakes in years' growing. Fiberglass Stakes are naturally suitable for humidity environment, will not rot or rust and no pest problem. Specially handled, fiberglass stakes resist UV, will not be fragile after long time sun exposure. Its reinforced roving and mat features great strength for heavy duty planting support. Wellco is launching a professional raspberry systems made in fiberglass, structured in 8ft post with two 30 inch cross bar across the top and middle of each post. Stretch lengths of 12~16 gauge wire from each cross bar will make it there perfect for raspberry staking. If you want to get more info, can visit http://www.wellcoindustries.com/landscape-products-services/stake.html or email ivy@wellcoindustries.com. Here is a link that might be useful: raspberry stake