"...should I have the men doing the backfill work, try to find the weep holes to make sure they are there?" Yes. If they're there and buried, that may be a simple fix to the problem. "Would it be ok to use a double layer of burlap or would that be too porous? will the regular weed-blocker landscaping cloth be ok?" That depends on how you would be using the fabric. Generally, jute mesh (or sometimes burlap) is used in conditions where slopes that are to be planted with grass are extreme, and the likelyhood of any rain eroding the slope is high. The fabric is normally rolled out on the ground and held in place with long hand installed staples. The rolling is done down the slope, not across the slope. The open weave nature of the fabric and it being biodegradable allows for grass to germinate and under the fabric and grow up through it. In places where the grass will not be mowed, the biodegradable fabric can be left in place to rot. In areas where the grass will be mowed, leaving the fabric in place presents the likelyhood of the fabric being lifted by the mower and causing all sorts of problems. Jute mesh will degrabe faster than burlap, and it's weave is quite a bit more open...and it's usually less expensive. If your lot slopes 2 feet over a very short distance and the slope is steep, then using the natural fabric can help keep the topsoil and seed in place. If the slope is not steep, the fabric is probably not necessary. The black fabric should not be used at all on top of the soil if you're intent is to grow grass. Either way, mowing with the fabric in place will be near impossible, and pulling the fabric up after the grass has begun to grow will probably pull the grass up with it. The black weed fabric is used on the surface of the ground so that nothing will grow through it. It can be used to halt erosion, but if it's woven and has a tight weave, water will tend to run off faster than if it was a more open non-woven fabric. Again, if the slope isn't ateep, it may be a waste of money to use the fabric there. Erosion control fabrics, woven and non-woven, are usually used in a vertical fashion, stapled to stakes (essentially the same things as tomato stakes) with the bottom hem buried in the ground so as to catch and slow surface runoff. Normally, that sort of installation is used where required either by local or state code, or by site conditions such as steep slopes and open ground exposed to the elements without benefit and protection of turf or groundcover. On a quarter acre lot with shallow slopes, I'm not sure it would be beneficial, but then again, I can't see the lot, so local opinion and expertise may be a better option for you. Just get more than one opinion. Another use for fabrics is actually in the ground, separating different soil types. In the case of a wall like yours, it might be that the designer will call for such a fabric to be installed prior to placing the clean free draining gravel behind the wall. The fabric in this case would keep the gravel open and free draining by keeping the fine particles from adjacent native clayey or silty soils from infiltrating and blocking the voids in the gravel.In this case, burlap would not be used as it would degrade over time. There are many specialty fabrics for this use, and most are not available at your local nursery or big box vendor. Some weed block fabrics may be similar in weave and nature, some are not. Can't say whether yours is or not. If the soils behind the wal are removed and atrench prepared for gravel backfill, the fabric would normally be placed along the bottom of the excavation with 3-6 inches rising up agains the back of the wall. The rest would run up the excavation and be laid on theground away from the wall until the trench was filled with gravel and compacted. Then the remaining edge of the fabric would be pulled over the top of the gravel, back towartds the wall, covering the gravel before the topsoil or planting mix was replaced. This more or less creates an envelope around the gravel. I wouldn't bother putting anything against your neighbor, especially if they still have the timber wall. Understand that a fabric envelope like this isn't always part of the design. It really depends on the nature of the existing soils, groundwater, and the wall design. Your situation may not require it at all. Only local inspection can insure that you're not throwing money needlessly in a hole. I don't think I said anything about using fabric at all. What I did say was that each 'weep' hole in the wall should be covered by a 'screen'. That screen would only cover the hole and extend a few inches beyond the hole in each direction, on the back side of the wall. The gravel would lie up agains that screen, and groundwater would find it's way to the hole and through the screen. If the erosion is most visible where your wall meets your neighbors, remember that your wall may be acting as a dam, and any water building up behind it is seeking a way out. The junction of your wall with yuour neighbors would be that point, and the flow may be significant. Weeps through your wall would likely provide the necessary outlet to reduce the pressure forcing groundwater to find that junction and causing it to erode. I would stay away from constructing anything that looked like a berm on the creek-side of the wall. It wouldn't serve the purpose you think it might. It may only make flooding problems worse. And, you may be running afoul of local regulations having to do with wetlands. Good luck. And remember, this is only an internet forum. We can't see what you see, we can only read your words. Even pictures would serve as limited assistance. Your very best bet is to inquire locally, and get as many second opinions as you think necessary.

If it were me I wouldn't be digging it up either. But before I tired the Bobcat thing I'd talk to a knowledgeable excavator about the possibilities. I'd go with continued watering, hoping for some good natural rainfall to help out. I built a new 6' x 40' 12" raised island bed over the past winter. We filled it with 6 yards of premium soil, and tried to settle it without compaction as we did. I watered for several weeks and not much settling. Then we got our first good Gulf coast storm system (aka toad strangler). The result after that was a solid 1" settle. Be patient, it will settle. In the OP you mentioned irrigation and sod. I trust you haven't installed the irrigation yet, which is fortunate. An option you might want to consider for now, while you wait for nature to do the work, is to seed the area with an annual grass. Not sure what grows in your area, but there are several decent annual ryegrasses that could be used. Some local turfgrass experts should be able to guide you. Not only will that give you neat short-term coverage, which will please Ms. Punkaweedus, but the root growth action may help settle the soil. Then in the fall or next spring you can easily get rid of it and finish the project. BTW - Bobcat has many models, including some with ~ 36" width. This post was edited by TXEB on Fri, May 10, 13 at 19:03

I've lived in houses that were on a slope, and agree w/what Logic said, it depends on whether the slope ends at the house, or if there's a drainage swale in between so the lowest point is not right next to the house. If the lowest point is next to the house, drainage problems can cause leaking basements, foundation failure, sinking of one side of the foundation, and water can even come up thru the floor in houses built with a slab on grade foundation. Can also get in vents where builders put vents in a slab foundation. Water in crawlspaces, too. It can be remedied but the best thing is to prevent it by proper site grading and foundation construction. Remedies after the fact are usually expensive; often, the damage has already been done. And yes, Logic is also right that people will conceal water damage. I know of someone whose new house had a drainage problem that led to a basement leak. Rather than pursue the builder for proper repairs they finished the basement so the leaks are concealed. Everything in their basement reeks of mold. They are taking their chances that no one can prove it and sue them when they sell. Stupid and unethical, but it happens. Far too many new homes are built on slopes where you see every house has the lowest point of their lot against one side of the house as you go downhill. Even on a slight slope it can wreck the foundation to the tune of tens of thousands of dollars. Just for future reference to any reader, I would not buy a house with a negative grade unless there was evidence a proper drainage swale and everything else required had been built right in the first place. I have lived in such a house and it never had any of the above problems even with a slope in the yard.

I wouldn't remove another thing until I identified everythng you have. You may be taking out choice trees, shrubs and groundcover. Make ample use of the "Name this plant" forum. Easy to post a picture and get answers often in minutes. I would also be very wary of what you're doing with the plant removal and potential grade change. It looks like you have created a bare slope aiming water runoff right for your foundation or cellar. Yes, tree work is expensive but you will get much smarter at it. Many of them can be felled yourself, especially when smaller. Some can be dropped and left for you to cut. If you burn wood, the hardwoods are valuable fuel. The softwoods like the pine you removed are good only for mulch and screening views (stacked). You can learn to prune. You now know the cost of tree removal. Planting new trees can be just as expensive if you hire labor to plant large specimens! It takes years of nurturing to grow a mature tree. So my advice again is to SLOW DOWN. Not to be a wet blanket...