Melanie, as I said, I'm glad they germinated for you, it's always a thrill when those seeds sprout. Risking sounding a bit judgmental though, the main page of your website also reads "Whether you practice witchcraft, ritual magick, or simply enjoy unusual incense, oils, herbs, and seeds, you will find something here of interest. All of our products have traditionally played a role in ancient or modern Earth-based spirituality (Paganism)" OK, maybe it's me, but I think there are more reliable places for sowing helps :) If reliable is the word I even want, I don't write for a living. The meconopsis.org site based in England has a lot of good information. My climate is close to that of England and I've grown these for years often using my own seed - I will also buy seed when I want to be sure of specific types (usually Chilterns, I have good germination with theirs). In my garden in my cool summer climate, they will take almost full sun, and may develop mildew in more shade. Winter wet when dormant is a given here and can't be avoided but frost heave isn't an issue. It took me a few years to realize it, but fresh seed sown shortly after harvest germinates in approx 3 weeks if kept moist outdoors, days in the 60's or 70's, nights 50's. Seed that has been stored several weeks or months will do best at lower temperatures. The Meconopsis Group - Meconopsis.org - No frills or promises, just a group of gardeners who enjoy and who have had experience growing meconopsis: Here is a link that might be useful: Meconopsis.org

Non treated diatomaceous earth. Make a solid heavy ring around the plant. If an insect touches the earth they die. Treated is poisonous to humans. You must replenish for wind or rain. I am overwhelmed with invasive ants that are much harder to control. The invasives are a result of globalization. They get here from ports. The best you can do in manage them. We were plagued with a spiral white fly that caused enormous havoc. Bugs can be very bad in florida. Now, the winter, is the least buggy... Soapy water works. Dawn or ivory. The others have degreasers that hurt plants. 1/2 oz to the gallon. It is a contact killer only. You need to wet the bug with the soapy stuff.

I'm not sure if I'd want those chemicals near a fruit producing tree (I'm assuming that we're talking about an edible fig tree). The easiest way I've found to remove bothersome ants is to find the ant trail and sprinkle a little borax (boric acid I believe) on the trail. They will track it back to the nest and it will kill the nest. I wouldn't do it under the drip line if at all possible and use gloves when handling, but borax is generally considered safe in small doses. Tanglefoot spread over masking tape will keep ants from climbing the tree and is another option, but would need to be reapplied every now and then.

There was no reply area on your original post in my browser. The insect is Lygus lineolaris, the Tarnished Plant Bug.