Need help deciding what trees to line driveway 500 ft
jsmmao
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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chiflipper
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Small trees to line driveway
Comments (15)I am not a pro, so take this for what it is worth. How about oaks interspersed with Cornus kousa? Although I love the native dogwoods, we have lost five to anthracnose in the last couple of years. I do have two Appalchian Spring that are still alive (well, we'll see if they leaf out this year!). I cannot picture a driveway lined with all evergreens (except for examples from France and Italy, but not the same look at all here), but if you do want some, they could also be alternated with the oaks and dogwoods for a natural, wide border along the drive. I would lean toward hollies in that case. Of course, this is more than your architect suggested. I agree that serviceberries are lovely, but mine has not grown very much since I planted it two years ago and it is still shrub-sized which is probably not what you are looking for along your driveway. Also agree that you want to plant the trees a decent distance away from the driveway. I think it will look lovely lined with trees....See MoreTrees to Line Driveway?
Comments (11)Is a septic tank or leach field located near where some of these will be planted? This is a big issue, especially for some big maple trees. I'd like to follow-up what Ken said - "i would NEVER.. plant one type of anything.. " This isn't just about aesthetics. Consider the devastation Dutch Elm Disease wrecked on the American Elm Trees that were heavily favored in some cities. Then be mindful that some diseases may spread via roots. While some diseases such as Oak Wilt and Sudden Oak Death, or Verticillium Wilt, don't seem to cause the mass casualties of Dutch Elm Disease, there is always that chance. Emerald Ash Borer destroys a lot of Ash Trees. American Chestnut is rare now due to Chestnut Blight. The impact could be greater if you plant all species of the same cultivar (e.g.: October Glory Red Maple, rather than a mix of Red Maples). This could lead to what amounts to a big interconnected row of clones, and anything that can kill one healthy one, can kill every one. Got an aesthetics question for the group. Would you do a big random mix, or consider symmetric rows of species (in which case you might want the same cultivar for a pair)? For example, each side having a matching row sequence of: 1.) October Glory Red Maple. 2.) Red Oak (northern or southern). 3.) Sugar Maple. 4.) Yellow Poplar. 5.) Swamp White Oak (or similar). 6.) Red Sunset Red Maple. 7.) Shumard Oak (similar to Red Oak). 8.) Sugar Maple (a different Cultivar). 9.) Ginkgo (warning: likely slower growing!). 10.) Scarlet Oak. I'm just giving some species to consider, not knowing what does best in your area. But when you do a mix, consider this: 1.) They don't grow at the same rate. That ginkgo might sit 2 years without visible growth getting established, then grow maybe 2 feet per year for awhile. During that 2 years, the October Glory might growth 4 or 5 feet, the Red Oak 3 or 4 feet, etc... 2.) If Fall color's a big deal, be mindful what the effect will be. Our red and sugar maples with turn prior to the oaks; the ginkgo will turn vivid yellow, then drop its leaves very quickly. 3.) Some oaks, like Shumard Oak, tend to hold onto their dead leaves through much of the winter. 4.) Some trees get larger than others. A Yellow Poplar will grow pretty fast, from what I understand, and can get very tall. In time it'll dwarf even a big red maple, I imagine. 5.) Young Ginkgos look like malformed hat racks to me until they get larger & bushier (and be mindful you get male Ginkgos so they don't produce stinking fruit someday, and avoid narrow columnar cultivars). Richard....See MorePls help me decide on oaks to line the driveway
Comments (40)Sherry, it's good to know that about Bluff oak. If they're slow growing, then there would be no reason to choose them over White oak. I still really recommend Swamp Chestnut oak though. At three years mine is 10ft tall. Pam, longleaf pines can have some aggressive roots because they like to grow deep into the soil. In nature they have a taproot 6-10ft long. Just make sure you're not buying too large a tree in too small of a container. Before you buy, slip the container off and look for any large circling roots. If you see circling roots, pass it up and look for a smaller one. I prefer the smaller ones in the grass stage myself because they have the advantage of being able to put more roots down before height growth. We're really only talking a year or so difference in time....See MoreNeed help: 500 sq ft master bedroom on concrete subfloor. Help!
Comments (5)Because your slab is suspended above a basement, you could float a plywood subfloor or adhere a subfloor to the slab. When we float a subfloor, it is usually two 1/2" or 5/8" plywood layers installed on a diagonal layout to the room with each layer staggered so no seams line up. The layers are attached to each other only. The plywood needs to be dry and reasonably flat. Garbage sheathing will not suffice. Since yours is such a large space, I would suggest you do a lot of research on different install options and consult with installers who have done solid over concrete slabs. One important thing to note is the fact that even though your slab is suspended construction does not mean it is entirely safe to assume it is dry enough to install wood flooring over without providing for some sort of moisture barrier or retarder. Concrete can take up moisture and emit moisture depending upon the temperature and moisture vapor content in surrounding air at any given time period. There have been remarkable advancements in adhesive technology with some adhesive manufacturers making the claim that now you can install a solid to concrete directly when using their product designed to do just that. I have not done that. Engineered wood flooring construction is basically a quality plywood with a veneer face that is the specie of choice. The veneers differ from product to product; some have a thin peeled veneer and others have a sliced (sawn) veneer. The unfinished Owens engineered is of the sawn type with a veneer that is almost a full 1/4" thick. I did an Owens unfinished over sheet cork over a slab where the product married to an existing 3/4" solid wood floor attached over a portion of the house that had a basement. You could not tell the solid from the engineered. Good luck with your searches....See MoreEmbothrium
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAnnette Holbrook(z7a)
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5 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
5 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
5 years agojsmmao
5 years agoocotillaks
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoEmbothrium
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
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