Well the general rule in container gardening is that the containers must have some form of drainage. Otherwise the water collects in the bottom, you get ponding of the water, bacterial growth, and root rot. I can't really picture containers made from "wire forms and concrete". That would be quite unusual IME but I would be worried about that weight on the field interfering with drainage in the field. Given all the drainage problems and shallow drain fields one reads about in many parts of Florida, especially with sandy soil, I'd be very reluctant to alter my septic drain field at all. And there are literally thousands of lightweight containers with drainage holes available for gardeners to use that can be easily moved and adjusted for sun exposure without creating problems for the filed. Unlike in-ground gardening Container Gardening has its own set of unique needs so I'd suggest some in-depth reading over on the Container Gardening forum here. Dave

(1) When I replant the tomatoes, how deep should I plant? Since I didn't prep the underlying clay, should I dig that out and add something to it (compost, e.g.,) before replanting the tomatoes? Plant them so most all of any exposed stem is buried. Either deep holes or trench them in. More digging sure can't hurt but it would be easier to just add more compost and mix it in to the top so you are working with a good 8-10" of new. Let the worms do the work of turning it in. (2) I've got a 2' fence flush against the bed but something is getting in and eating the strawberries. There's no obvious tracks in the soil, could it just be bugs? As mention - slugs snails and many other possibilities. Move them to a container for the good of all issues. (3) Do I need to move the strawberries? There's 3 plants, I'm told the yield will be low the first year, I'm considering moving them to a trough this year and then to their own bed next year. 3 plants won't give you much yield. Not even a small handful of berries. Honestly not worth planting so few plants. Put them in a pot and plan to plant many more next year in a larger container. (4) The row of scallions and row of carrots have sprouted, I planted densely planning to thin - when should I thin and by how much at first? Growing up we didn't thin until we could at least discern which plants were doing better. I'm nowhere near that point but since I planted so densely I'd want to make sure I thin on time Since this is such a small bed and sounds like it is heavily over-planted already if you want any carrots at all you will have to thin aggressively. Begin thinning as soon as the seedlings are large enough to ID individual plants - usually 3/4-1" tall. Do a follow up thinning when they are 2-3" tall and again until they are approx. 3" apart. (5) I'm pretty sure this soil mix is only good for about 60-90 days and I'm not sure what I need to do then. Dig it out and replace it? Add something to it? Not at all, you just keep mixing in more compost and nutrient supplements. You will not be able to count on this new soil for sufficient nutrients without you adding supplements. There is no active soil micro-herd yet to convert the compost to nutrient forms. (6) Assuming our garden is successful (so far, so good, I've maintained it minimally) we plan to expand next year. What should I do with the soil this summer/fall, if anything? Raised beds again is what we'd prefer. Just build more of the same or my personal preference is 3' wide and long as you have room for. It's a more efficient use of space and provides easier access. 2x a year additions of lots of fresh quality compost. If you can get some well-aged manure for adding in the fall - great. otherwise buy several bags of composted manure now while the garden centers have them and add them in the fall. Good luck with your garden. Dave

You don't say what you plan to grow. Perhaps vegetables in rasied beds? Generally, I would ease myself into the new environment by having a reasonably sized garden at first with some soil ammendment. This would allow you to do some gardening while getting to know the local gardening community and the local methods. I am a frugal gardener and the thought of spending hundreds or perhaps thousands of dollars on raised beds and soil ammendments does not fit with my idea of gardening. I have some raised beds but those were made from salvaged lumber. Doing a little at a time is not a bad idea. It seems that in our "make over age" everything has to be done at once to look picture perfect. I do all my gardening with hand tools which includes a garden fork, a shovel and a crow bar. A little at a time gets the job done and saves my back.

Without extensive soil testing there is really no way to know what contaminants are in the soil there but the odds would favor at least some. So a simple removal of the top 3-4 inches of soil (and the gravel of course) would eliminate most of the issue. Then you can build the beds on the cleaned area and get by with much more shallow beds - 8-10". The alternative would be really deep beds, something like 18-24" but without tilling or turning at least some of the surface and getting rid of at least most of the gravel could still create drainage problems for you down the line. Same issue with using some sort of permanent wood bottom in the beds - that creates serious drainage problems, ponding and pooling of the water and subsequent root rot. As a general rule "leaching" happens down, not up, and plant roots don't generally suck up contaminants unless they are water-soluble. So if this area is the only option then either removing the contaminated soil or at least diluting the contaminants with lots of fresh soil mixed in or sticking with containers would seem to be the only options. Lastly take into consideration which vegetable plants you want to grow. Many, like all the leafy greens, are shallow rooted but if you want tomato plants, peppers, and such they are tap root plants and tap roots can often be several feet long. Hope this helps. Dave