White Spruce Picea glauca. Useful pointers: White Spruce needles are longer; Black Spruce Picea mariana needles are shorter White Spruce needles are ± the same colour on all sides; Black Spruce needles are conspicuously more glaucous below than above. White Spruce shoots are (in your area) hairless and pale brown to whitish; Black Spruce shoots are hairy, and dark orange-brown on mature shoots. White Spruce cones are slender, with soft scales; Black Spruce cones are broad, with stiff scales. Resin

Thanks Alex, I appreciate the response. The min temp is 18c, but it is a humid environment.

Thanks for pointing out the missing aisle dimensions. I'll add them to the floor plan view. These are cabinet to cabinet - we are planning on 3/4" - 1" overhang Range wall to island - 52" Peninsula to island - 40" Both sides of island - 42" When I was taking those measurements I realized that I forgot to mention the current drawing shows the range wall lowers pulled out 3". The range will probably be the CC which is 25" to the back of the door and 27 3/8 to the front. Are there any heat issues if the cabinets come out past the door gasket? If we end up going this route I would rather see deeper cabinets and drawers rather than just pulling them out. It might be better to leave them at 24" deep and against the wall and gain 3" of cabinets on the sink and refrigerator walls. The island will probably be used for serving and sometimes prep when multiple people are using the kitchen. We have never had an island so we aren't sure how it will get used. We currently have a single slide-in 30" range with a OTR microwave and countertop toaster oven. When we entertain oven space is always an issue. Maybe we are overcorrecting with too many ovens. Another option we have considered is the range,steam and speed oven and maybe a warming drawer. With this option we would only need a 24" cabinet and gain 6" of space. I have read a lot of posts about blind corners and still don't know what is best for us. The layout shows 2 lazy susans and a LeMans style pullout at the peninsula. The peninsula might be a good spot to close in the corner and have access from the other side. We could use this to store infrequently used items. Thanks

Since I had already treated several of my problems with various brews, I sent a chunk of Striptease and a piece of September Sun to A&M. They said they needed something that had not been treated. Those were in the early stages. One had the "orangey" stain and the other had the white mold. I sent a big chunk of soil with each as well. Then I drenched everything with that Bayer product that showed any symptoms or had been treated with a different method (I've done bleach baths and hot water on several earlier this summer. What I've noticed that I have not mentioned is the pot. I posted it to the container forum but did not get an answer. I think this is related. I've washed and bleached all the pots as they have been emptied and their contents trashed. I just wish I knew what it is or how it's spread and is it the same thing I had at the first of the season? (Brown dried up roots) The sample I sent to A&M earlier this year was from OBL. It, Francee and Paradigm had the same problem (and maybe several others). A&M said Root knot nematodes. Bill Meyer said root rot, judging from my photos. I was tossing OBL a few weeks after re-potting , as it was continuing to go downhill. I pulled it out of the trash, bagged it up ans sent it to the lab. ( Maybe I washed away most of the fungi when I repottted ir?) Then, Bruce Banyai said what we're seeing is August blight and bleach it. Of course, bleaching a hosta in Texas in August is probably a death sentence. I have no clue if it's being spread by an insect, falling out of the pecan trees, came in the potting soil or is in the mulch in the beds. If I buy new hosta, will they get it, too? Maybe I'll get a better answer this time. bk