anyone here experienced in refinishing wood furniture?
jennlehr
5 years ago
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jennlehr
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone experienced? mownie?
Comments (12)About all I can tell you (not having the opportunity to look myself) is that I expect you will find one or more of the hoses in that group to have worn through the outer rubber skin and possibly through one or both of the steel braid reinforcing layers. That is an articulated tractor and thus all the hydraulic hoses that pass between the front and rear frame halves bend significantly during turns. The bending unavoidably causes the hoses to chafe against one another and against the "tunnel" surfaces too. I have never worked on a Steiner but I have worked around a few articulated front end loaders and the set up is similar (I bet) but using smaller hoses. If you are prying hoses apart from each other to get a look at them, beware that if a hose is chafed and worn through one of the steel braid layers there are going to be many needle like strands of wire exposed and sticking out like a trap.......so don't run your hand up in there amongst those hoses even with the engine stopped. A visual inspection with good lighting is the best, use a mirror if needed. Now, it's possible for a hydraulic hose to be defective and leak without having been chafed and hoses that normally bend a lot in operation (like yours) are prime candidates for that type of failure. If you do not discover any chafed hoses, you may have to actually remove the hoses from the tractor for a close visual inspection. Hoses, once removed from the machine can be blown out and pressurized with compressed air. You will need to come up with some fittings to plug one end and to adapt an air hose to the other end of the hydraulic hose. Pressurize the hose to 120PSI and then spray or mop a solution of dish soap and water on the hose exterior skin. This is kinda like checking a tire for a leak and will produce small soap bubbles where the leak is. You can also fill a 5 gallon bucket with clear water and then pass the hose through the bucket (by bending it to a loop) slowly while watching for a stream of tiny air bubbles to rise visibly from the leaky spot. If I had to resort to removing the hoses to test I would for sure take a bunch of pictures of where each hose goes and how it is fastened into the bundle of hoses. Be a good idea to do one hose at a time to rule out any mistakes. Darn Steiners are some real brutish looking machines and I hear they have a good reputation. But I bet not many people are willing to brag about doing hydraulic repairs such as what yours needs....See MoreAnyone experienced with cordwood building??
Comments (19)fruithack, wood is not solid, it is composed of millions of hollow capsule shaped cells (like a gram type bacteria or a Tylenol Cold and Flu capsule) with an outer wall of cellulose. Heat loss is along the perimiter of the cells, ( the cellulose structure) and the rate of heatloss is affected by the temperature of the air in the hollow center of the cell. Contrary to popular opinion, Wood cells are not like bundles of drinking straws with open ends. These cells are aligned vertically to create grain and as a result, traditional measurements of heat loss are taken across the grain, where the cells are thinnest, in both hardwoods and softwoods, rather than along the grain, where the cells are longest. In one test on 4 x 4 Lodgepole pine samples, the R value across the grain was R 5.49 in one direction, (as aligned to the growing tree, this would be measuring from the heartwood to the sap wood), in the other direction was R 5.67, (as aligned to the growing tree, this would be measuring across the heartwood and sap wood), and when measured along the grain, (as aligned to the growing tree, this would be measuring up the tree), was R 6.24. These are significant differences in R value. R Value is also a very simplistic measurement of heat loss, that does not accomodate for radiant heat loss, or thermal mass. Radiant heat loss can be extremely important because it actually has more impact on how humans "feel" hot or cold than room temperature. Thermal mass as well is very important. In a simplistic explanation, thermal mass is how adobe homes, stone and brick cottages remain habitable with out wall insulation. Stone, mud and brick all take large amounts of energy to warm the surface and some of the thickness, but once warmed to a certain point, release that heat energy faster to the surrounding air, than they migrate that heat through the thickness of the walls. So, in a stone cottage in Scotland, once the interior is heated, heat from the heat source and released from the walls radiates inside the home while the out side of the wall remains below freezing. In an adobe house in Arizona, the sun heats the outer wall, but the mass releases the heat to the outside air, and the interior of the home remains cool. Some studies have shown that you are better off adding another half inch layer of drywall, ( almost doubling most homes thermal mass), than adding insulation to the exterior of a 2 x 4 insulated stick frame home. R values are convenient, easy to measure and simple to calculate. Radiant heat values and thermal mass are much more complex. The only "true" measure of a homes efficiency is to heat it to a comfort level, hold it at that comfort level, ( or cycle it through the daytime comfort level and night time comfort level) while measuring the amount of energy used. Even this can get quite complex, as there is a requirement for fresh air exchange inside the house, passive solar heating, etc that all affect the final result. Like strawbale homes, adobe homes, and earth sheltered homes, cordwood homes have advantages that suit certain places, certain people and certain times. They can be as, if not more energy efficient than even SIP Panel homes and as long lasting as stone or brick. Around here, we have witnessed an "explosion" of non-traditional housing, almost all of it is ownerbuilt. The economy is not that great and has not been for close to 50 years, so traditional housing here has been mobile homes, modulars and stickbuilt. About an eighth of the housing is stick built 2" x 4" additions on 80 to 100 year old log homes. There are two major "cheap" sources of timber here. The first is beetle killed Ponderosa Pines, which have caused the explosion of new log homes and log additions, ( 12" to 24" thick walls). The second is beetle killed Lodgepole pines and spruce, which has caused the growth of cordwood homes, (16" to 24" wall thickness constructed of 6" to 12" diameter chords). The other major growth is strawbale, as we are a agricultural hay and pastureland region and straw is cheap. With money being tight, energy being expensive, many farmers are embracing alternative building techniques last used 100 years ago up here. Some results are very efficient, some, not so much. Your Mileage May Vary....See Moreanyone ever paint their brown wood furniture white / cream?
Comments (7)Recently I bought (after measuring very carefully to make sure they were not too tall!) floor to ceiling dark brown, stained and lacquered bookcases from a store that was going out of business and selling (or basically giving away) their display cases. I filled in a few screwholes with plastic wood, lightly sanded a few rough areas, painted the cases inside and out with a good-quality white primer (this is the essential step!), sanded away any drip marks, and then finished with two coats of the same paint my daughter and son-in-law had used to paint the woodwork in the house they had recently bought. I had a handyman bolt them to the walls on either side of the living room fireplace and then add trim around the top which matches the rest of that in the room. The bookcases look completely built in. They were excellent quality pieces with crown moldings and striated rails---they look wonderful!! No one would ever guess in their previous life they were old brown dismanteled display cases from a store that had gone out of business! Paint will do wonders. As for the pulls, don't dream of trying to paint them-- take one of the old ones to Home Depot or a local hardware store. They will help you buy new ones which will fit the existing holes (never try to drill new holes--that leads to real problems which a coat of paint can't fix!!) Good luck with your daughter's room--I know it will be beautiful and she will appreciate your hard work as my daughter and her husband did....See Moreneed book on refinishing furniture. Anyone know of a good one?
Comments (2)already been to the library, I was asking for a recommendation of a really good book title to look for. Frankly, I have a big project, not much time or energy and do not have time to wade through tons of bad books. (I am a full time caregiver and my free time is limited to 5-10 minutes here and there and no time to browse libraries and bookstores((((( Recently I was looking for info on how to frame pictures, the most likely book at the library was about how to make the frame , it spent loads of time on how to miter the corners and what wood to buy and how to sand it, but absolutley none on what methods are used to secure pictures or glass in the frame and none on the various methods of hangers on the frame, how to apply them and which is best for what. I was hoping some crafter out there would have a favorite book she/he could recommend. you, know, some book they had used and really liked!!! I am refinishing Cargo brand furniture which is yellow pine, a wood that gets harder and darker with age, it is finished with an oil finish and has been scratched heavily by cats with strong claws. I am getting new cushions and covers, beige colored, and would like to sand out the scratches and then refinish with a tung oil based penetrating oil finish in a semi gloss or satin finish. I need to know about using power sanders. My husband bought me two to use but they have little to no instruction on how to on wood. A lot on hwo to plug them in etc. none on what grit to use. I have already done most of the sanding on the ottoman but do not have an idea how far to take it and with regard to sanding and staining. I put a tung oil finish on the top of the coffee table years ago and need to know it I can sand it off or has it penetrated too deep to re do?...See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
5 years agojennlehr
5 years agoBeth H. :
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojennlehr
5 years agoBeth H. :
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojennlehr
5 years agoBeth H. :
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojennlehr
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojennlehr
5 years agoBeth H. :
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojennlehr
5 years agoBeth H. :
5 years agojennlehr
5 years agojennlehr
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agokatinparadise
5 years ago
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