Oh. ok. Much like the climate I'm in. was hoping you'd have let it go and see if any of the suggested remedies helped. Can always learn by failing. Good luck with the new ones. For what it's worth, SWC's sound great on paper(especially her in SoCal), but they sound like everything needs to be prefect to be effective. If I was to try one, I wouldn't use anything but the famed 5-1-1 mix discussed so frequently in the container forum. I would think that root rot might be a problem and the 5-1-1 is designed to eliminate that problem as much as possible. Healthy roots, healthy plant... in most cases. Kevin

Difficult to see detail. Is the white area a thin film? If so, something ate the surface green layers. Or are they holes? If so, something ate it. Beyond that, how many leaflets are affected? If only this one, not a problem. If more, please post a picture of the entire plant. This post was edited by jean001a on Sat, Apr 5, 14 at 12:37

I hate to say so but it sure looks like a virus. Clematis are prone to several viruses, usually vectored by aphids or other sucking insects. The above photos look like the start of cucumber mosaic virus. And like with viruses in humans, there is nothing you can do for it. Generally, the recommendations are to rogue out and destroy the affected plant. It won't necessarily kill the plant but could cause it to weaken and even produce distorted flowers. The biggest risk is that it can spread to other clems in your garden or to other plants - it can affect a whole variety of different ornamentals as well as many edible crops. I would take a copy of the photo and a sample of the vine into your local extension office for a concrete diagnosis before doing anything hasty, however :-))

Zoysia is its own type of grass. Buffalo, even on Oz, is different. You were, and likely still are, watering wrong. That's what the grass will look like when you water too frequently and not deep enough. Pictures to follow. Here's more info about watering. Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 3 cm all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps from 33-38 deep water once per week. With temps from 25-32 deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps from 21-24 deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 21, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. In the USA this deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont (for Oz think Hobart to Darwin including Alice Springs), so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. And here's the motivation for proper watering:Thanks to morpheuspa for posting this pic many years ago. All the lawns in the neighborhood are Kentucky bluegrass. All of morph's neighbors water daily. Morph waters deeply and infrequently based on the paragraph above. Use that paragraph as a guideline to get the lawn fixed. Then tune it up for your specifics. There are other factors which play into this. Air temp is 90% of it, but there is also soil type, grass type, humidity, cloudiness, wind, grass mowing height, and a few more. But start with the daytime high temp and don't overthink it with all the other factors. Here's another picture you might be interested in. This one was posted by mrmumbles many years ago. The grass is zoysia like yours. The fertilizer he used was alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). He tossed a handful in mid May (late spring) and took the picture in mid June. You can clearly see the improved color, density, and growth. Alfalfa is a common ingredient in organic lawn fertilizers. We like to skip the high prices and just buy animal feed like soybean meal, alfalfa meal/pellets, corn meal, or any other ground up nut bean or seed. The application rate is the same for all of them at 8 kilos per 100 square meters. You should be able to find something in 20 kilo bags at your local feed store.