Overwatering vs. Too Much Direct Sun??
M M
5 years ago
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Orchids are now summering outside --how much sun is too much?
Comments (6)Thanks everyone. So, I will move the Oncidiums to a little morning sun, then mostly bright light. I think I'm okay with the Catts. now. I may try just a little more morning sun for them. About the dendrobiums...orchid 126, you said they like western sun...should I move them so that they don't get morning sun, but do get the really hot western sun? I can do that. What about the vandas? Should they be in the sun all day, or just morning sun, or just really hot afternon sun? I'm confused about the vandas. I thought they liked it really hot and really bright all day, but they seem to be burning up. What about shade cloth? Does anyone use it? Should I drape it over the catts and oncidiums? Thanks for everyone's help. Liz...See MoreHow much is too much sun
Comments (20)Hey Bruce, I'll add something here. Your question is "How much is too much sun?", but the conversation is focused on temperatures. I submit that temperature and sun intensity are not necessarily directly related. If the question was "How hot is too hot?", I would say at that point where pollination is adversly affected - which is a function of temperature and humidity rather than sun intensity. Now, as for "..too much sun". I would say that this is more a function of your latitude than your temperature. I'll give you an example. It may be 100+ where you are, and 85 where I am, but the sun's intensity will be FAR GREATER here than there. Too much direct summer sun for me might be 2 hours, where too much direct summer sun for you might be 6 hours - even though your temps are much higher. PJ...See MoreArtificial lighting - dealing with direct sun vs. shade requirements
Comments (18)Obi - I'm using three Vornado fans, which provide a lot of airflow. Two designed for small room air circulation and blowing directly on my plants. One is permanently on, the other only for a day after watering. The third fan is quite large and circulates air up my stairwell and into the loft, reducing temperature greatly. It's set on a timer to start an hour after my lights go on and maybe two hours after they go off. The power setting is the lowest for each to save on electricity. I recommend buying a power meter ($40) or borrowing one free from your local library to decide on the optimal power vs airflow setting for your fans. Like Daniel, I have had no issues with more blueish (daylight balanced) lights. I do not believe red lights are required for succulents to flower. At least, I confirm this does not apply to my: Haworthia, Aloes, Echeveria, Huernia, Lithops, Faucaria, Crassula, Schlumbergera, Euphorbia, Aloinopsis, Gibbaeum, and Lapidaria. My experiment/research is ongoing and hope to add more to this list. =)...See More"Full" vs. "direct" sun?
Comments (11)It's sort of like asking if there is a difference between 'soil', 'potting soil', 'substrate', and 'medium'. In this case and for the most part, the words are interchangeable and context determines the meaning unless the discussion includes a newcomer to growing things in containers. 'Direct sun' could be outdoors in the middle of a yard with no shade for a furlong, or it can mean sitting in front of a S window (in the N hemisphere), or in a S-facing conservatory - even if light passing through glass typically reduces visible light transmittance by 20-30% for applications utilizing insulating glass units (IGUs), depending on what products are used in their fabrication, and at least 10% for a single lite of SS (single strength 2.5mm/ 3/32") glass. Many low light plants can tolerate a full sun photo load if they are sited in front of windows containing IGUs. What they often don't tolerate is the passive solar gain (heat build-up) that occurs when the light strikes the leaves. Imagine how hot a dark green car gets in intense direct sun when there is no breeze to get a sense of what passive solar gain is - light energy being converted to heat. Overheating commonly occurs indoors because of a layer of still air (called the boundary layer) that surrounds the leaf. It serves to insulate the leaf so heat is trapped in the leaf and not lost to surrounding air. A tip that allows your plants to enjoy more sun if you help reduce heat build-up: Most cases of overheating can be avoided by rigging a fan on a timer so it disrupts the boundary layer during periods of intense photo load. Al...See MoreM M
5 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agoniksouthafrica
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agolaticauda
5 years ago
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