are you sure they are #8? #10 is more or less standard for door hinges. Since Reliabuilt assembled the door and frame, they should know better. The 3/4" or 1" long screws that come with most door hinges are just fine for most hardwood doors. They are not adequate when screwing into a softwood frame or a softwood door. Worst case is when you mount a heavy hardwood door into a softwood frame. But even a softwood, steel, or fiberglass door is frequently too much for these short screws. all of those types of doors use wood (usualy pine or fir) on the edges to screw into. You can probably replace the screws easier than you can get a response from reliabuilt or home depot. replace the ones going into the door also. Put some blocks under the open door to take the weight off the hinges and replace the screws one at a time. 1 1/2 #10 is apropriate. If it was me, I would be inclined to take the whole unit out and return it to home depot just for spite!

Thought I'd update the information posted here over the past year. Here's the scoop on the Reliabilt products Lowes sells. The Reliabilt name is an exclusive name Lowes puts on their inhouse items sold in certain areas. The Reliabilt products are made by different manufacturers across the nation depending on the market you live in. Here in the Upper Midwest & across the Northern U.S. the Reliabilt doors & windows are built by Jeld-Wen. Lowes has specific guidelines manufacturers must follow when making products carrying the Reliabilt name. No matter where you live in the U.S. the different product manufacturers are suppose to build them all the same way. Just like everything else we buy it's just some make their products better than others. It all differs from market to market. The problems Johnny faced with his new door coming in the wrong size was probably related to a bad measure of the existing opening. One of the biggest problems in todays market is replacing an existing entry door with a Therma-Tru replacement. The standard door opening height since the cave days (just being funny) has been 82". Over the past few years some of the manufacturers out there, including Therma-Tru, decided they should change it to 82-1/2". This works fine for a new construction application but creates huge issues in the replacement industry. If you don't specify a unit height of 81-1/2", you'll be getting the 82". Some modifications will be in the cards on the day of installation. So make sure you specify your unit size or rough opening size when ordering replacement doors. As for French Styled Hinged Doors, I'm sold on Pellas new style just recently put on the market. Both doors operate and lock by using their individual levered handles. Both doors have 3-point locking functions and come from the factory ready to go. There's no field drilling for manual flushbolts in the head or sill because there's no manual flushbolts anymore. The doors have mounting plates pre-applied already set to the right locking position just by a slight lift of the handle. This makes the installation much easier on the installer when they can latch the doors shut from the start. The old doors had to be set in place and then drilled for bolts afterwards. This was always a royal pain in the rear making sure you drilled properly for each bolt to work without binding. Then you had to make sure both doors sealed when closed. This could always be very frustrating at times during the process. The new doors make it much easier to install & even offer the normal DIY'er the ability to install them with ease. If you haven't seen them check them out. They are a little more expensive than the competitors. It's just the nature of the beast. You can always negotiate your pricing no matter where you buy your wares. So always take the time to chisel the price down.

You have a solid steel door? I don't think so, unless you live in a Bank. You cannot just stick a double hung window in a door. If you are having issues with the glass, I would suggest carefully measuring it and then contacting a door manufacturer and asking if they can supply you with a replacement. It would be really helpful if you knew which company made the door. Or you could just replace the door. Might be cheaper to do that.

If your selling you might just want to take your chances and let the next owner deal with it. It's difficult to tell a non-professional how to install something we can't see. From the OP, he never mentioned a steel pan system, so I'm not sure if he's talking about leaving the steel pan in and installing on top of that - in which case the pan will still transmit cold from the outside to the inside. However, he might be talking about leaving the narrow steel frame of the casement - sometimes these are finned into the block walls, sometimes screwed into a hidden wood frame. If they are finned they can be a nightmare to remove. I can see that if this is the case, and there is no steel pan, that the opening could be lined/framed with 1x6 or 2x6 and then the new window installed in the wooden frame. Then the exterior could be wrapped with aluminum over the old steel frame. Hope I didn't just confuse the whole issue. Trying to understand what is existing. If there is indeed a steel pan system, I would definitely remove that by tugging and cutting and get it out. Though I've seen it done with it in, and it is a heck of a lot easier, it isn't really the right way to do it.