bbgardengal, FIFTEEN palm fronds turning from green to brown in TWO days has to be something abiotic. We had to remove the oldest frond on a Caryota palm each week for 3 successive weeks. The fronds were not completely brown but some browning was present on each 'fishtail'. The problem occured on only one of three such palms that receive exactly the same treatment every two weeks. In the individual opinion of five persons, all knowledgeable in the field of palms, something was poured at the roots. The floor of the building had been cleaned about a week before the first frond was removed and it has been surmised that some of the spent cleaning solution was poured into the container. The prognosis for the palm is not good.

Yes, I've grown two Livistona chinensis clumps outdoors over this past winter in the High Point area. They were inexpensive plants bought at Wal-Mart for an average of about $6-7 per pot. Dr. Francko's book (Palms Won't Grow Here . . .) suggests that they are die-back perennials, and so I gambled for less than the price of an average New Guinea impatiens or clump of Purple Fountain grass (they would die over winter, anyway). The only protection I provided was a little Wilt-Pruf, copper fungicide, and a Wall-O-Water for each of them. They're in a shady location with a lot of W/SW winds. So far, the leaves at the base look fine, but anything sticking out of the top has turned brown, as you might expect with lows getting down to about 18 in December and February (still only a mild zone 8b, but anyway). They had looked good until temps reached the low 20s. If Dr. Francko is right, they should come back in the spring after I cut off the dead leaves, but the jury's still out on that. If they can recover over the summer to their previous heights (leaves about 4 feet tall or so), I'm guessing that they might be medium-term survivors with protection, such as burlap, mulch, etc. (until there is a *bad* winter). Wal-Mart often has these on sale for less than $5, so at that price, it may be worth a try for you even as an annual, as they are very beautiful plants for a dappled-shade location. On the other hand, if you want something more permanent with lesser maintenance requirements, Trachycarpus fortunei (Windmill Palm or Chinese Windmill Palm) and Sabal minor (Dwarf Palmetto) sailed through this winter with no protection except for copper fungicide. Home Depot on Wendover currently has many 3-gallon Trachycarpus fortunei for about $24, and 7-gallon ones for about $60. You can also find them on eBay. LA Reynolds on the west side of Winston-Salem had lots of Windmills and Sabals last year, and Camellia Forest and Plant Delights in the Triangle have all of these and then some (including Rhapidophyllum hystrix, the Needle Palm). There will probably be even more selection in a few weeks. In any case, good luck!

Hi palmbob, I got a reply back from a tree expert: "I have had a good look at the photos and actually relieved to see the tree was in relatively healthy. What I can say is it’s probably worth doing something to try and save this tree, things that you can do yourself could be apply a good layer forest mulch underneath the tree and as far out as you can manage. Secondly head down to the local nursery or hardware store and grab sea sol and water in. The other thing is definitely keep up the water to this palm over the next couple of months, unless you dig the soil and find completely saturated already then hold off on watering." He also suggested a soil injection package at $265 times 2. He didn't mention the wound, but according to a different forum: "if the dripping is coming from the trunks and not the leaves, that's more likely to be a bacterial infection." which may or may not help a bacterial infection, he didn't say. A different blog said "Palm trees do not drip sap so after asking a Tree Doctor he said it looks like "honey"" so it could literally be honey that I am seeing (we do have stingless bees elsewhere in the garden). Still a bit confused!

Hey KB, I have a Musa Basjoo banana, and an Ensete banana, along with 3 Cannas and 3 Elephant ears. The Musa Basjoo and the 3 elephant ears should be able to overwinter in the ground this winter, I'll just need to dig up my Cannas 3 of em, and move my ensete banana and in my basement this winter, I also have a Pineapple lily that will need moved indoors in winter. I have "Pink china" elephant ears, and they are said to be truly zone 6 hardy. I have them mulched well. I've been overwintering Calla lilies for about 3 years now in a raised bed up[ against the house) but they are in a bunch of shade so only get a couple flowers on them. I will likely try to make a raised bed in more sun next year, right up against the foundation, and dig out some of the Calla lily plants. In more sun they should do well. I'll be looking for the "Midwest banana farm". BTW, my Windmill palm is doing great in my native soil, I will be making my shelters soon, I already have all the materials to make it. I just am not sure how I'll make the wire enclosures a nice circle without it being not a perfect round enclosure. You know how wire on a roll wants to kink? I'm sure it will work out. I still need to plant my Needle palm in the ground. I should do that ASAP, so it gets settled in the ground before winter. It's been fine in a pot, unlike the Windmill palm that hated being in a pot. My first purchased Windmill palm died from me watering it too much in a pot. WE were having 90'sF so I was afraid it would dry out in it's pot so I watered it everyday. My first Windmill palm did have a rotten middle stem, so it did die in the pot. I'll be checking the "Midwest banana farm" now thanks KB.