Could the small size of the container be limiting root growth, and could that be affecting the size of the plant above ground? The container can/will limit growth in a predictable manner - the tighter the roots ... the greater the reduction in linear branch extension, the smaller the leaves, and the shorter the internodes (distance between leaves). Should I just get a giant container now and stick the little sucker in it? What size container should the lilac ultimately need? How many years does it take for a lilac to reach a mature size? I'm going to say NO to the giant container. Not because it can't be done, but because the questions you ask tell me you probably haven't had enough experience in container culture to MAKE it work. There is a 3 way relationship to consider between plant mass, container soil volume, and soil type (mainly particle size and structural stability). You can MAKE it work with a very porous homemade soil, but it's more than likely you would be frustrated by your efforts using a commercially bagged soil. The size of the container the plant will require depends on it's progress and how you handle the pruning - both above and below ground. With proper and judicious pruning of roots and shoots, you should be able to easily maintain the plant in much less than 5 gallons of soil indefinitely. For now, a gallon of soil is more than enough. If you want the illusion that the plant is growing in a larger container, just slip the 1 gallon (or other small) container it's in now, into a larger container filled with gravel or other soil. This can also help reduce the possibility/probability of you over-watering and help keep roots cool. I cannot tell you how long it will take the plant to reach sexual maturity in a container, but I can tell you that basal suckers will take much longer to come to bloom than cuttings propagated from mature wood because of the difference in their ontogenetic age. Al

lilacs are usually pruned after flowering.. why waste the last show you might have for a year or two .... on a big multi-stemmed shrub... you usually take the biggest 1/3 of branches per year ... until it is down to the size you want .... thereafter, take out a few every year or two to maintain size ... on a single stem ... i guess you would cut it down to a few inches above ground level.. and hold your breath ... lol .. it will sprout from dormant buds on the trunk .. and probably throw up some suckers .... then maintain as above ... this has been covered many time.. so try the search engine above next to the GO button using your title.. or pruning lilac ... etc .... think of all the roots pumping power to that stump .... i bet you will be impressed by how much it will grow in the next year or two .... you may miss flowers next season on the single stemmed plant ... good luck ken

Marsha - maybe our definitions of what a sucker is are different. But in my opinion the long tall growth on your Forsythia, whilst maybe different in growth habit from the current branches, is not a sucker. It is normal for Forsythias to throw up these kinds of branches/shoots. Later they branch out and become 'normal' looking. Cutting the shrub back last year may actually have precipitated these long growths. 'Rule of thumb' is precisely that and doesn't apply to every species under every circumstance. But you must treat your shrub as you wish. They are tough as old boots and it's hard to do much damage to them.

I would not remove old growth if it has live bud eyes and shoots growing from it. The bud eyes are small reddish swellings on the canes. Removing the dead wood is beneficial. The bud union is at the base of the plant, where the budded variety is grafted onto the rootstock. Your rose might be grafted, or own root. I would not remove suckers from the area unless you are sure that the suckers are not from your rugosa. Return in early summer to see if the suckers bloom, and compare the foliage and canes to see if the suckers resemble your rugosa. Many of the Cemetery Roses that I visit are in the 50-100 year old range, based upon the age of the headstones, and suckering of the mother plant is common to see. The Cemetery Roses get blackspot, as do garden roses in the area, this is not a concern. If grass or weeds are growing right up to the base of the rose, careful weeding to remove the weeds would be helpful. Some organic fertilizer once or twice a year would be beneficial. If the soil is compact, light raking with a hand rake will help to aerate it. Raking should be done carefully to avoid damaging roots on the surface.