Old owners cut down healthy tree after our offer was accepted
Dar C
5 years ago
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Chessie
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoGill
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Lemon tree dropping healthy leaves after being brought indoors
Comments (25)Hi all, I am new to this forum, I have read this thread, but would like to double check my information to make certain my little lemon tree is doing okay. Briefly: I purchased the tree in the spring of 2011. I live north of Chicago. The tree spent the spring, summer and autumn on my side deck with a southern exposure;I have many mature trees (50+ years), and this area gets the most sunlight. The tree seemed to do fine while outside, I brought it inside before the frost. My house has floor-to-ceiling windows, so I placed the tree in the same exposure, except indoors. It probably receives strong sunlight probably 8 hours per day on sunny days. Today is 21 January, and recently just about all of the tree's leaves began to shrivel. They did not turn yellow, but they did die (become crunchy) and began to fall off. I was very alarmed, but after reading this thread, I believe the issue may be that the soil/roots were cold. I do not presently have a thermometer (it is after 1 am and we just had 9' of snow!) but the container does feel quite cool. The tree has never had any fruit, just one marble sized green lemon that I have not removed and some white buds, which I have also not removed. Here are my questions: 1) It appears the tree will lose all of its leaves, but that does not mean the tree is in danger of dying, correct? 2) If I am to understand the problem with the contrast of sunny leaves/cooler soil/roots, this problem can be rectified by either keeping the tree in the sunlight and warming the soil (with xmas lights, for example), or by moving the tree out of the bright sunlight so it can "wait" until going back outside in the spring. So, I can move the tree to a less sunny location and it will be fine until the spring, given all other things remain the same? I should add that I take pains not to overwater, and the room where the tree is located is quite dry with little humidity. I have used good soil and, as a bonus, since I have pigeons, I have also used some of the pigeon droppings into the soil. I have done this with great success with my other plants and in my garden, and with this tree during the warmer months when it was outside. Thanks in advance for answering my questions, I really appreciate it. I just want the tree to be happy and to be able to overwinter indoors with as little stress as possible. Thanks again, Bill B....See MoreDeveloper of lot next door wants to cut down tree on our property
Comments (67)Hopefully the tree is still standing and the developer has not damaged any roots yet. In most states, a landowner may trim any branches or roots that grow across the property line, but they can only cut up to the property line. In addition, they can be held liable if the trimming causes the death of the tree or creates a situation where the tree is so weakened that it may fall and cause damage to any dwellings on the property of the tree's owner. If the tree is still standing then immediately contact your insurance agent and notify them what is happening, or about to happen, to the tree. The insurance company will likely send them a letter informing them that they will be held liable for any damage to your property should the tree fall on your property and damage your house or cars. Now you know why they are offering to cut the tree down, once it's cut down they no longer have any liability from a fallen tree....See MoreSawmill after my trees. should I have them cut down and sell them?
Comments (58)Don't get me wrong-I myself have long participated in reforesting of our city following the elm event. Of course there's still some great streets and neighborhoods-even whole communities. What I am saying though is that in the aggregate, summing the whole kit and kaboodle up, we have a lesser resource today than we did yesteryear. For one example, even in my city the forester or others like to tout the fact that each year, we plant more trees than we remove. Yes, of course we do, I say, but the new trees are almost all going into new streets, new subdivisions that didn't even exist back whenever the comparative year was. If one was to somehow mount a camera over a city, perfectly stationary, and take time-lapse photos of the older parts of town, they're in a shambles so far as tree cover compared to where they were years ago, before all the elms died, before all the big old silver maples started falling apart, etc. I'm sure it seems overly bleak how I worded that post, but I'm certain there's a kernel of truth to it, even as I and you folks and a bunch of others go on with our daily lives, much of which involves trees and other greenery. I'm not pointing my finger at anyone or anything...just telling it like it is, as I see it. And one other facet: The power companies, long having spent considerable dollars on line clearance, so we can all plug in our toasters, has finally prevailed on urban forestry managers all across the nation to plant little mini-trees under power lines. Now from that one single perspective, I get it. But from every other perspective, it's been a disaster for the look, feel, and design elements of our city streets. Does anyone really get anything from a street lined with 'Ivory Silk' tree lilacs, themselves spaced far and wide? They will never coalesce, they will never create a canopy, they will never do any of the key things I listed above that street trees can and should be doing. This as much as anything has diminished the value of our urban forests. I once put this idea down as one for further discussion at the arborist's meetings. Well-and this has happened a lot-they took me up on it and this subject was one of the main ones at the following year's conference. I didn't get to go to that one but from what I heard, there was much scowling and wailing and gnashing of teeth at this talk and the idea behind it. It was actively rejected by the majority of city foresters and others in attendance. That's how far things have fallen-we can't even talk about it!...See More3yr old healthy looking dwarf umbrella tree suddenly drooping
Comments (10)Re watering intervals: whether or not you should, shouldn't, or can with impunity water on a schedule depends on the physical properties of the planting medium you use. Because of the media I use, I can/do water EVERYTHING I grow on a very regular schedule, and I have no trouble keeping plants in a high state of vitality. That said, and based on the appearance of the medium you're using, you would be much better served to water on an as-needed needed basis rather than on a schedule, this, because the soil is too water-retentive to water any other way. The green stems of schefflera turn brown as the outermost layer of living periderm dies to form the first layer of corky material we call bark, so the 'browning' stem might be a natural part of the plant's morphology. Too, the spots or specks on stems and branches could be lenticels another normal part of of morphology. There's no way to tell w/o better images, but I can see lenticels and areas where green periderm is turning corky. So, I suggest you start using a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water (more about a 'tell' below). You can also learn to tell (for now, while the plant is still small) if the planting needs water by hefting it. It will become MUCH lighter when dry then it is immediately after watering. You decide between hefting and using a tell after you read what's below about the 'tell'. If you do this when you water, you can eliminate about 100% of the potential to over-water: When you water, make sure the entire volume of the medium moistened. After the pot has stopped draining, hold it over the sink or a tub and move it up and down. You'll immediately see that on the reversal from downward movement to upward movement, a measure of water will exit the drain hole. The sharper the reversal from down to up, the more water exits, though the amount diminishes as excess water continues to be forced from the soil thanks to the harnessing Newton's first law of motion. This works exceptionally well for all plantings light enough to be manageable, and there are other 'tricks' that utilize simple science that can help with larger plantings. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See MoreUser
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