It could be a dry seal at the rear "spring dampers"...The bounce test is of limited value.. I wonder if an external shot of penetrating oil would do any good ?? Little noises can be difficult and costly to service..

My way is not only LESS work, it's faster, and less expensive to the customer. What the customer would pay for a 4 wheel alignment on the car bucky posed would be the base menu price of $69.95 or whatever. This would be for a camber and toe adjustment at all four wheels, and a cradle adjustment if required, which is essentially a caster adjustment. Ironic isn't it, that the more creative, and experienced an automotive technician actually is, the LESS he/she may potentially actually earn. This alignment as I outlined would take approximately 50 minutes, allowing for a road test before it was performed to check for any pulling, vibration, and the steering wheel centering position at straight ahead. Then the suspension and steering components would be checked, tire pressures set and the machine set up on the vehicle. All adjustments performed, and then a final road test to confirm the vehicle is aligned correctly with the steering wheel centered. I asked about the "Ackerman Angle" which is commonly called "Toe Out On Turns". To check this angle during the initial caster swing you simply have to pay attention to how far you have to turn the wheels as the machine makes it measurement. Normally the machine will instruct the technician to center the steering wheels and it takes a starting measurement. It then commands the tech to turn the wheels to the right, somewhere in the area of ten degrees. Normally the RF wheel will achieve that turn first, and then the LF wheel will have to be turned just a little further. Now the machine commands the opposite turn. If everything is correct the routine will follow exactly the same, the LH wheel will achieve it's turn and measurement first, then the RF wheel will need turned just a little further. If "Toe Out On Turns" is incorrect, you will see something like the LF wheel achieve it's RH turn before the RF wheel does when turning to the right, and then again see it achieve it's turn to the left before the RF does. Typically when this angle is incorrect the tire shop, alignment tech see's a car with the front tires worn out so they replace the tires and perform an alignment. Then in a very short time the tires are worn out again, in fact so fast that the tires likely get warrantied, and the car goes back onto the alignment rack. What the tech see's is a car that is right in specs. At this point they don't have any idea why this happened because it's a very infrequent issue. Typically if the tech looks close enough he/she will see that the inner tie rods have different angles from the steering rack to the knuckles. Then putting the machine on the main screen page setting and turning the steering wheel, you would see the front end toe-in when turned to the right, and then you would see toe-out when turned to the left. (As in my example, or the mirror image depending on the problem) Here is another question. When adjusting camber by pivoting the knuckle at the base of the strut, what happens to the included angle?

A larger fan running at a lower rotational rate so that the blade tip speed is lower should be quieter for the same cfm moved. (Think Casablanca ceiling fan as an extreme example.) Whether a hood that fits is available with this property is a question I can't answer. Modern-Aire may be able to answer. kas

Thanks, RChicago! I've narrowed my choices to either a VAH or a Modern-Aire hood. They offer 600 cfm and smaller hoods that I can vent directly out the back wall. It's too costly and way too complicated to vent the hood vertically (there's a large bedroom window in the way). I had to rule out a number of others because they either were ridiculously overpowered for my needs - no way could I avoid MUA costs - only vented vertically or required at least 24" of vent pipe to vent to the rear (couldn't accommodate), or were too expensive. I've read through dozens of old threads about ventilation, plus I've consulted several experts (ventilation reps and CMKBDs) and I've concluded that 400 cfm will fulfill my needs. I know that's going against GW wisdom that bigger is always better but oh, well. :) Our 20 yr old pop-up downdraft is rated at 500 cfm for our standard gas cook top (rarely used it on high, too danged noisy and it sucked the flames sideways). And yet I'm quite sure that a 400 cfm hood will easily beat the ventilation pants off that old pop-up downdraft. I'm leaning towards the Modern Aire. I like its appearance plus, at 24" deep, it has a better capture area than the 300 cfm VAH (only 21" deep). In case anyone else is on this same quest, here's the list of possibilities I compiled, in no particular order: Imperial Prestige DCS Wolf Modern Aire Viking VAH Kobe ZLine A few brands never made the list because they were poor qual1ty. I looked briefly at Best but their baffles were backed with mesh (what they apparently call their hi-low filter system), which is not what I wanted. This post was edited by lisa_a on Fri, Sep 26, 14 at 11:31