Cost to install Central Air and Heat
Kelly
5 years ago
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tigerdunes
5 years agoKelly
5 years agoRelated Discussions
How long to install Central heat & air ?
Comments (5)Had my 20 year old furnace & coil removed, new high efficient furnace w/condensate pump & line installed, new PVC intake/exhaust lines run. Placed new cased coil on furnace (not hooked up). New return drop installed. This was done (day 1) as it was heating season. Day 2, removed old outdoor unit, replaced w/new a/c and base. Ran new lineset. Purging of lines with nitrogen - brazed new lines, then pressure tested w/nitrogen. Triple evacuation with R410a. Charge adjusted via superheat/subcooling. This was completed a couple of hours early. The above was done by installer (main guy) and helper who do installations, only. Your installation should not take 5 days, let alone 2 weeks. It sounds like this is a 1.5 man outfit. Hope it works out for you. V...See MoreCentral heat & air advice
Comments (3)The northern CA climate should be rather mild. Do a Manual J, & do NOT oversize the AC unit! Have the ductwork sized for the Btu/hr required, Main Trunk total & for branch runs to the requirements of each room. The low bid is very reasonable providing he does it RIGHT! "The link provides an idea of what the duct system requirements are," he should use the Manual D standard for sizing & running the ducts. - udarrell Here is a link that might be useful: Sizing of Residential Air Conditioning Systems & Ductwork...See Moreheat pump vs central air
Comments (25)dabbindan, Yes, I got a Bryant system and they are indeed 100% the same as the Carrier ones. Only the brand sticker is different. So get a quote on the same models from each side and pick the cheapest. As for the heat pump vs a/c... heck, if you are that unsure about the heat pump reliability with it turning on and off all the time, just use it as an a/c only. But still buy the Heat Pump. If you only use it in a/c mode, then it is using the same mechanical components as a normal a/c. The reversing valves just won't activate to heat mode. With regard to the 90 furnace though, I'd be more concerned over getting an above 80 high efficienecy furnace's reliability than the heat pump. Make sure you ask about and read up on their known quirks and issues too. Just cause it's just a burning flame doesn't mean it doesn't have LOTS of complex circuits and parts that can fail as well. I know the 80 AFUE furnaces are simpler and more reliable than the 90+ ones. That difference might be small, but it's no smaller than worrying about a heat pump's reliability. Hope that gives you some more to think about......See MoreBuying a Central air heat/air system need advice.........
Comments (2)OK, heres the info that I was given on both units: Goodman: 1-MBE1600-Air Blower 1-CAPF3743C6-Evaporator Coil 1-ASZ14036-3.0 Ton Heat Pump Condenser 1-Digital Heat Pump Therostat RUDD: 1. Untra Series Heat Pump UPQL-JEZ 1. UHKA Air Handler Digital thermostat It says install 15 seer HP 3ton R-410-A split system. Now whether or not my house needs a 3 ton or not I left that up to the dealer/installers. But my house was built in 1940, is about 1500 square feet, with NON-insulated windows, with non insulated exterior concrete walls. I do have quite a bit of insullation in the attic. This is probably the reason for the higher ton heat pump. That and trying to get to the tax credit. Both dealers claim that their units qualify for the $1500.00 tax credit. If not then I'm makin me a trip to Sears and just replace my 24,500but window unit with another and call it a day....See Moretigerdunes
5 years agomike_home
5 years agoKelly
5 years agoBruce in Northern Virginia
5 years agoarkansas girl
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMichael
5 years agoionized_gw
5 years agoionized_gw
5 years ago
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