Spring citrus pics and grafting update...
Laura LaRosa (7b)
6 years ago
Hi guys! I have been busy getting my house in order, but wanted to post a few pics of my trees and grafts. We had a good rain last night, and with the warmer temps, my trees are exploding with growth...it warms my heart! This is Alexander, my largest Meyer, who fared better this winter compared to last. He is glorious with so many blooms!
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Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Grafting citrus
Comments (16)Sandra: Citrus is not as easy to graft as pomes and stonefruit but it is a lot easier than jujubes. The thicker the cambium layer, the easier the graft and you almost cannot go wrong on a pear with its thick cambium. Your sucess rate will depend on your ability to match and grow cambuim layers togeather before the scion dries out. The Simple Wedge Cleft: The cleft graft linked above is one I find particularly difficult. Begin with the simple wedge graft and match both scion and rootstock edges. See http://sites/johnpanza/refinementsingrafting John left out these details(he covers it in his class). Demensions assume budwood near pencil size. Use this method if the bark is not slipping. Trim the scion wedge with taper length of 1-1/8 to 1-1/4 in. Insert wedge until ~3/16 (4 to 5 mm) of the taper sticks above top of the rootstock. The cut the depth of the cleft should be about 1/4 in. longer than depth the wedge is inserted. Use L.E. Cooke or equivalent heavy 1/2 in. wide x 0.008 in. thick green grafting and tieing tape (usually green). Twice the thickness of budding tape so you can pull the stock against the scion leaving no gaps the length of the cleft. Pull hard streaching the tape to the point of breaking. Cut off about 10 in. of tie tape. Start the wrap 3/8 in. below the bottom of the cleft split. (Below where it says rootstock in the drawing) Spiral wrap upward about 3/8 in. past the top of the taper of the wedge and then spiral back down and stop 1/2 in below top of the rootstock. Cut the tie tape. Take a piece of sticky tape ~1/2 in wide x 1.5 inch long to finish the wrap. Tape down the tag end of the tie tape to the previously wrapped bottom layer of tape. Sticky tape can be masking tape, freezer tape, or last choice duct tape. Write date and scion variety on the sticky tape with a marking pen. Cut a piece of Parafilm -M or newer grafting Parafilm about the width of the diameter of the scion or a few mm wider. Spiral wrap the scion leaving just yhe buds uncovered. Remove the paper and put that side on the scion. Streach the parafilm and it gets tacky. The best scion wood is second (or in a pinch third) from last flush. It is best to use "slighted striated wood" Do not use the first 2-3 buds of a flush....See MoreCitrus Grafting.. Calling All Experts!!!
Comments (15)So I removed 2 shoots, and tested the slipping on both and they were fine, I also practiced my t-bud grafts. Please also tell me if the practice grafts I show have a strong chance of taking????.. assuming I was going to wrap afterwards. These were two buds I removed. I saw a grafting video once and the guy said to take the white inner layer out making it the bud somewhat like a shield. The one on the right is with the white wood, the left is after it was removed. IS IT BETTER TO REMOVE THE WHITE PART????? or to leave it alone like the one on the right. Another view. This is with the small shield-like bud, above. Kinda messy but ill be more careful with the actual graft. This is with the bud with nothing removed, above. 1)MAY I USE TEFLON PLUMBERS TAPE O.K to WRAP THE BUD WITH? 2)WHICH BUD IS BETTER TO GRAFT WITH?? 3)AND BASED ON THE SHOOT I PRACTICED WITH( the pictures above,) AM I SAFE TO PROCEED WITH THE GRAFTING?? Thank You KB...See MoreGrafts in critical condition update in + grafting questions..
Comments (31)Thank you Dax. This was about my third year in trying to propagate this J. virginiana. The first year I tried strong rooting hormone on cuttings, that failed. Second year I tried grafting with a knife (not razor sharp, just sharp) and doing the bag method except I did not let them breath, those all failed (quick), Spider mite infestation on the root stalks, and the knife not being razor sharp was likely the main causes for a quick death. Third year (this year) The scions seemed green for a long time in the humidity chamber after grafting, but I think that was just because the humidity preserved the chlorophyll even though the scions where getting little to no water uptake from the root stalk (guessing). The only ones to eventually grow a tiny bit and did not turn brown for the longest time, were the ones I had half in a jar of water (approach grafts), and they actually grew, but after I took the "graft" out of the humidity and removed the jar the tender new growth quickly shrived up and the last couple of scions I had died. I don't know if this guess is true or not, But I've been guessing (and hoping) the the only reason they failed is because I got the scions off the parent tree as the tree was coming out of dormancy in February (pollen cones on the tree where large and swollen, and just about to burst open). A very warm winter did not help either (breaking dormancy even earlier than typical.) So perhaps the scions did not have time to heal before the water started to transpire out of the foliage of the scions and juices flowing in the scions, thus a very poor graft union that was very susceptible to even tiny stresses in the aftercare (in other words: little to no water and nutrient uptake for the scions). Does this sound likely or not, (I don't mind if you disagree with what I said above, I want to learn as much as possible, so you can tell how you think about it). This time I want to get the scions in the dead of winter (in January). Do you think bagging the grafts could be better than the humidity chamber? Bagging them would be more work and I worry about spider mites, but I don't mind to do what ever it takes to get a successful cone of it, I'll do it. I would even spend hundreds or maybe even thousands of dollars to graft/clone it successfully. lol You probably know how it is for me, ones favorite plant/tree of a plant enthusiast is kind of like a very close family pet....See MoreGrafting citrus
Comments (18)A few more tips on grafting: 1) I use inverted-T budding exclusively because it has a high success rate. 2) Bud selection is critical. I suggest chosing a bud that looks like it will grow with the next growth flush. A bud near the outer half of a branch on the upper half of the tree is often good. 3) After you insert the bud into the rootstock, it is critical that you take measures to prevent the bud from dessicating until it can fuse itself to the rootstock. Use grafting sealant to seal the bud. I few hours later - after the sealant has dried - I wrap plastic tape around the rootstock and bud as a light pressure bandage. This tape also helps prevent bud dessication. In about 3-4 weeks, the bud should have fused itself to the rootstock. Then follow the general instructions on T-budding from this point. I have some grafts on the go right now! I planted a grapefruit seed and forced it to grow two major branchs, so I could do a double graft: Notice the graft sealant:...See More
Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
6 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
6 years ago
PacNorWreck
6 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
6 years ago
evdesert 9B Indio, CA
6 years ago
redneckgirlgreenthumb
6 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
6 years ago
sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
6 years ago
jinnylea
6 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
6 years agoHi Jinny and Sunshine! I hope you guys had a great day yesterday. Jinny, the red lime has one fruit from where it blossomed over winter. It had a ripe lime I removed recently. It is now really sprouting, so maybe it will bloom again. Not sure what the blooming cycle is for it or if it’s everbearing. I hope your BDF buds. Mine took its time also, but has been outside longer than yours I suspect.
Another of mine that’s on fire (do you guys have one?) is my Seville...Jinny, I’m pretty sure you do ). This one definitely needs a new container.
every branch pretty much looks like the last pic! What a grateful tree!
jenny_in_se_pa
6 years agoAlanna Migliacci
6 years ago
PROHome
6 years ago
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Laura LaRosa (7b)Original Author