It is OK...
jim_1 (Zone 5B)
6 years ago
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Dolly
6 years ago
Fun2BHere
6 years agoRelated Discussions
OK, OK, I give. WHERE are you getting Aergs. kirkii??
Comments (4)I got mine from someone who was selling it from his personal collection... sorry. Wish I could say I found it at a nursery, so you could get one too. Part of the whole reason for this ang case project was kirkii... didn't want to lose it and be unable to replace it. Hopefully, it works. I hope you find a source for it!...See MoreSedlings in a large pot? Ok or not Ok?
Comments (8)Hopeful, I guess I would need more information to really answer this question completely. 1. Are these palms being grown inside or outside? Year-round, part of the year? 2. If you are growing outside, what are temperatures and precipitation like? (summer?/year-round?) 3. What is your cold hardiness zone? 4. What is your heat zone? 5. What is the soil like? And what kind of containers are they (plastic I assume, even the color of the containers matter here) To me, your containers sound really large. But could you get away with it given appropriate soil, and growing these guys down in the Keys (I live in NJ)--I guess (strong sun, high temps, rapid growth etc). Because I haul my palms out for the growing season, I need to be concerned with the possibility of excessive rainfall (large containers hold in a lot more water than smaller ones). The growth rate of the palm species also matters by the way. Christmas palms are only moderately fast anywhere other than the most tropical of locations. Roystonia (Royals) can be slow as juveniles (spending up latter in more tropical zones)--putting them in large containers wouldn't speed them up. I'm sure people will offer you very different opinions here (anything from "go for it" to "you're gonna kill your plants". My personal philosophy with containers and growing palms is to aim for a slightly snug fit while providing some room for root growth. Remember too, that palms prefer deep containers (as opposed to wide and shallow). Another concern of mine is separating seedlings while they are small rather than waiting until they get big--palm roots are relatively fragile. You can still separate larger specimens (I did this recently with Foxtails)--but I try NOT to. Hope this was helpful. Good luck!...See MoreOK...OK...The C2 'Stellar' pics...!
Comments (9)Hey Faron, How are ya, D-boy?! Great color, really freshens the furnishings, gives it a whole new appearance! A very earthy looking blue to me, not cold, quite soothing! As far as the front entry wall, will you be doing anything with the picture window wall (near seating) and window wall opposite that one? (The wall upstairs to the right of the arched window). Will they stay the color they are now? BTW, I have a split level/bilevel too, I'm loving that arched window over the entry. Couldn't pull a nice sized beauty like that off in my house, knucklehead who built it left about an inch of drywall on either side of the front door frame, it's about as tight as an entry can be. :/...See MoreCovering soil of indoor plants with rocks or gravel? OK or not OK?
Comments (12)" I thought the Cactus Miracle Gro mix was the perfect type and designed for this specifically..." I used to think that too. At the risk of sounding like a fanatic: Miracle Grow cactus soil is basically potting soil consisting of mainly peat moss (as opposed to plain peat or peat humus, which is even worse), and a tiny bit of perlite, with some added sand. Sand will make it heavier and gloppier (sorry for the technical terms). The particles are too small for them to really make it faster draining, plus it does hold some water. It has been said that larger ingredients (like perlite, pumice, etc.) need to make up at least half of the mix if there's peat moss, in order for them to effectively increase drainage and especially porosity (giving roots more air). But what I find interesting is that even African Violet growers recommend 1/2 perlite and 1/2 potting soil. Many people who grow succulents use that, but watering needs to be done very carefully, as in not too much. I don't really know how Miracle Grow, Schultz, Scotts (all of which I've used), and the others can market that as cactus and succulent soil. That's not a reflection on L Evve, I'm just saying. I've gone through all of that. I've stopped using peat moss at all for all cactus and most succulents, but if I was using a peat moss based soil with ceramic pots and also top dressing, and all I had was perlite and 'potting soil', I would use at least 60-70% perlite. Then you need to water over the sink or into a pan or whatever, because a dish below the pot won't be able to hold what a thorough watering would release out of the bottom. Again, I realize we might sound like fanatics, but I can assure you everybody who grows these plants is like us, not necessarily the no-peat-moss part, but the importance of a free draining mix. Here is an example of a peat moss and sand based mix in a plastic pot with pebbles as top dressing: I did drastically prune the top branches but the bottom part is rotted with no roots left. (In another thread I said I wasn't going to describe all that I did wrong, but I'll sacrifice one for the team.) I really didn't think I was watering it too much. I found this out recently as I'm gradually repotting almost everything. So I'm learning too. Sorry for the long off-topic post. I thought this might be beneficial....See More
aok27502
6 years ago
moonie_57 (8 NC)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
Annie Deighnaugh
6 years agojim_1 (Zone 5B)
6 years agoMoonie, this is after Balboa and about 20 minutes prior to entering the locks...
moonie_57 (8 NC)
6 years agoblfenton
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agochisue
6 years agojim_1 (Zone 5B)
6 years ago
OklaMoni
6 years agonickel_kg
6 years ago
nicole___
6 years ago
DawnInCal
6 years ago
OutsidePlaying
6 years agoUser
6 years agochisue
6 years ago
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