Huge dilemma - major disaster in garden - advice/ideas, please!
8 months ago
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Side yard disaster. Looking for advice.
Comments (4)I think what I have pictured in my mind will be hard to put down in words but... Try treating that solid layer of rock/rubble that is 6" down as your new "ground level". In other words, lay out some paths in your side yard. Then dig down to rock layer where you laid out those paths. Dig the paths a little wider and lay down your walls for the raised beds. Put all that topsoil you just removed onto the new raised beds. It may not add a lot but you may gain a few inches which will save on buying topsoil. Did that make sense? Also, once you determine it is not a septic tank or bomb shelter or something else you may want to get to some day, take a bar or shovel and just keep testing the ground every few feet to see if you can find any loose spots. Where you find your loose (or looser I guess) spots dig the holes for those plants you bought that have deeper roots. then place those plants with shallower roots around those. If it is rubble and not bedrock I would try and find out how deep it goes. It is possible the builder just dumped rocks there and then graded over them. Just some thoughts. good luck, Jim...See MorePlease Help-Cambria Torquay Installation Disaster
Comments (111)Lien laws vary by state, but my general rule is that you should not give final payment to the GC until he provides you with signed lien release forms from all subs, precisely because the subs can file liens against your house even if you pay the GC in full but he fails to pay the subs. You contracted with the kitchen company, and they hired the sub that did the faulty work, so the kitchen company is ultimately responsible for the quality of the work. Assuming you have not already paid the kitchen company in full for whatever you owe them, I would inform them that you are withholding payment in an amount equal to the full cost of the counters until they provide you with a signed lien release from their sub (it is between them and the fabricator what financial arrangement they come to to get the release signed) as well as properly installed counters. In other words, don't pay until you get exactly what you are paying for plus a lien release from everyone....See MoreDid I make 2 major mistakes in planting my grass seed? Help please.
Comments (9)Where do you live? France is a big place. And does it snow in your area? Here is some general info on lawns. Ignore your neighbor. He's trying to intimidate you and set you up to fail. Plant new seed only in the fall. Start in the early fall. That might be August or it might be September depending on where you live. You seem to have done it pretty well - perhaps by accident. Not rototilling was excellent. Rototilling is a big mistake that a lot of new gardeners make. See if you can rent a roller. You only need it once the first time you seed a big yard. After that, for annual overseeding, you can simply walk on the new seed to press it down onto the soil. Water new very lightly 3x per day, every day, until you get 80% germination. For the shade grass you planted that would be 3 weeks. If you have shade type grass, I'm assuming it's a fescue. Fescue should be mulch mowed at the mower's highest setting most of the time. If it gets hot in the summer, then mow every other week. The idea is to develop deeper roots to get water from deeper places in the soil. Fertilize for the first time on Fête du huitième mai or Jour de la Victoire 45 (same date different name). Fertilize again on Assomption and for the last time on or about Jour d'armistice. With the new lawn skip Jour d'armistice for this year. National holidays are easier to remember than specific dates. If you want to use organic fertilizer, you can do that any time including now. The application rate for organics is almost always 7 kg per 100 square meters. I like to use alfalfa pellets (lapin chow) as a fertilizer. Get them from a local feed store in 20-kilo bags. They really work. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 3 cm all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps from 33-38 deep water once per week. With temps from 25-32 deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps from 21-24 deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 21, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. In the USA this deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont (for Oz think Hobart to Darwin including Alice Springs), so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. These are in reverse order of importance. Watering is key to getting a good lawn with the fewest problems. Weeds: Spot spray a liquid herbicide in mid April and again in mid September....See MoreIN NEED OF MAJOR DECORATING ADVICE
Comments (76)Oh, yay! You replaced the loveseat with two chairs. And the art is great! You are totally on a roll here. That art really belongs over the mantel. If the light is too strong, it means you need better window coverings. If you do hang it on that wall, hang it just about where you have it propped, maybe one or two inches above the chairs. Do I see a fake plant peeking out from the entertainment center? It doesn't belong in your new stylish room. Add maybe one red pillow on the couch, something pretty plain so it doesn't compete with the art....See MoreRelated Professionals
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