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Roof vent for kitchen ventilation (Vent-a-Hood roof jack)

5 years ago

last modified: 5 years ago

New user here.

I bought a demo pro-series Vent-a-Hood to replace/augment the Faber downdraft in the kitchen (we don't like using downdrafts and this one is particularly horrible).

I need to vent through the (concrete tile) roof as wall venting Is not possible in this house. I ordered a 8" Vent-a-Hood roof jack but it won't be available until end of June and we'd like to get some roof work (namely moss cleaning) done (roofers are pretty busy and I don't want the scheduling to slide).

It would appear that I cannot get one sooner unless I cross an international border (we can see the destination from where we are, so close yet so far). I wonder if anyone here has had experience with the Vent-a-Hood roof jacks / vents and what they think vs. Air King, Broan or other. No reviews for the VAH online.

Thanks

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Comments (5)

zneret
Original Author
5 years ago
Looks like no one has got one (maybe no one else semi-DIYs and sources all the parts to this level). Got one from Amazon (local dealer and distributor couldn't get it until the end of next month, for an order I placed 3 weeks ago....) so I got it from Amazon and had to make an international water crossing (I can pretty much see where it was delivered from my house).

The unit does have a damper, an interesting unsprung one that is kept closed by a weak magnet do hopefully a single fan running at half speed will open it. No pest guard, so I shall have to make one to fit.

Appears to be stainless steel, I can't tell. Hope so as I don't want it to rust.
catinthehat
5 years ago
Hi zneret,

If you are venting through your roof, you may even consider a roof mounted external blower, it will be your most quiet option. Regarding your roof jack, most are made of galvanized steel, not stainless. Both would be fine. If you haven't cut concrete roof tile before, easiest way is with an angle grinder with a masonry carbide or diamond blade. Remove the tiles by cutting the nails with a long thin kerf blade on a reciprocating saw. A pry bar helps to wiggle them loose. Silicone caulking is going to be your best option for waterproofing. Good luck!
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DH and I installed a vent in our upstairs bathroom, venting through the roof. Did it ourselves - no leaks. We have cold, snowy winters and stormy summers - no leaks. My Mom's house was built in 1977, range hood vented though the roof. This is nothing new. What does your friend's GC do, exactly? I have a vaulted ceiling, and the only issue I can see with venting the range hood is enclosing the vent line so it looks halfway decent. I've see photos of them (standard range hood, with cabinets above) cased in with drywall, bricks, and wood. Again, not rocket surgery.
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I thought about going straight up with it, but I don't have a lot of room due to the angle of the ceiling. Plus, I am going to be using a canopy style hood, so the chase would have to be rather large to be in proportion with the hood, and I'm not sure how that would look. I did think about placing cabinets on top and then a chase above that, but again I am probably too close to the rafters in the attic due to the slope of the ceiling. Consequently, out the wall and into the garage attic seems to be the simplest way to go. Plus, that gets the inline fan away from the house and makes everything more accessible. I don't mind enclosing the vent in drywall to bring it up to code. While the vent needs to be in a soffit, what about the inline blower? It seems like the blower should be left out in the open, with the remainder of the duct enclosed? That said, I can see what you are saying about direct penetrations from the garage into the house are not permitted due to fire concerns. However, would a solid duct running from the kitchen into the garage attic and out the roof fall within that logic? There are no breaks in such a duct run, since the only openings are at the hood itself and wall/roof cap. So as long as the penetration where the duct goes from kitchen to garage is sealed with fire caulking around the duct, how is there an issue? Again, I don't mind enclosing the duct run in a chase if need be, but it seems like overkill....
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Is your appliance store recommending anyone? A local appliance store that provides good service should be willing to recommend someone who has done good work for the store's customers. Our appliance store recommended an appliance installer when we needed a modification to our hood and its venting. When the roof cap needed to be changed, the installer felt a roofer should do that job given our roofing type and what needed to be done so he recommended someone. That may be better than separately choosing a roofer and HVAC person. We got a pair that were use to working together and the job went very smoothly. I think the roofer charged us about $150 so it was pretty reasonable. About a week ago, we had high wind rain storm and no leaks so he did a good job.
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First, does the hood require such a large duct. Even most residential "commercial style" hoods only require 8". Be sure to follow duct guidelines in the installation manuel or performance may be affected. It is possible to make duct work too large and cause the air velocity to fall beyond an acceptable rate. You should be able to find this size roof jack from a manufacturer at a much better price than having it fabricated. A 10" jack will have a 10" opening at the roof decking, which will allow you to slip the crimped end of a piece of duct into it, support the duct with strapping or angle clips, tape with foil tape, and seal with duct mastic. Or, before the jack is installed, attach a starting collar( available at ac supply) to it, so that the collar will stick below the roof decking and provide an easy connection for the duct. Use foil tape on all joints, not cloth duct tape which will fail in a few years.
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zneret
Original Author
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Thanks fr the tips. I wont be doing the vent install myself. Not skilled enough (hope the roofers are more skilled!) and don't want to take the risk of breaking tiles, or falling.

I already have the dual-fan Vent-a-Hood and the run will be probably not more than 8-10' so should be o.k.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
5 years ago
Tile roof is a whole 'nother animal. This is not a DIY.
zneret
Original Author
5 years ago
The roofers (reputedly the best n my area) did the installation last week which turned out to be a less than 2 minute job. I poked a hole through the membrane where I wanted the hole and the roofers found a suitable spot close by. The 8" flange fit right between two battens (what holds up the roof tiles and what they hang from) and two adjacent tiles. Overlays enough so the roofers think it shouldn't leak. Easy enough to close up by replacing the tile if it does. The 1" flange is rather short so screwing in the elbow was a PITA.

The roof vent may actually be stainless steel the more I look at it. Looks more like the stainless steel used in the VaH warming shelf than the galvanised ducting I used.

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