I'm new to roses & in Toronto. My three plants died over the winter.
poseidonprincess
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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All of my new rose bushes died
Comments (11)Avain, all of the previously asked questions are good, but much more information is necessary to even begin suggesting why your roses died. Your profile says you live in Zone 9, Southern California. Which city, please, and what is the approximate construction date of your home? Is it in a larger tract where the earth is likely engineered to provide seismic stability? That can make tremendous difference as far as drainage and the soil's ability to absorb and hold water. Were these plants installed close to a concrete wall, patio, drive or walk, or were they out in a bed in the lawn? Were they watered with the sprinklers, by hand or on a drip type system? How does the water applied to any lawn or planter areas drain? Is it toward where the roses are planted or away? Did the plants turn black, or did they simply dry up, turning beige? Did you notice any unusual smells from the soil balls when you removed them? You state you "added new soil" when you planted them. What kind of soil did you add and how much? If your home was built in the past two decades, particularly if it is part of a large subdivision, by state law the soil is engineered, compacted in to a stone like consistency to provide for seismic stability. That's great for safety but horrible for gardening. It compresses the soil particles into stone, leaving no place for water to go and nowhere for the soil to store it. I recently investigated why a five gallon Euonymus failed in a friend's planters in engineered soil. Everything I was able to excavate from that hole was BONE dry. Absolutely no moisture in the soil at all. The plant failed because the sprinklers were relied upon to keep the shrub watered and the surface of the soil looked damp, but there was no moisture IN the soil. I've also observed holes excavated in that stuff where water was over applied or ran off into the holes, creating buckets where it could only either be used by the plants or evaporate out and the plants drowned. Adding anything organic in such a situation is like plugging the drain hole in a pot, then planting in it. The organic material, when kept under standing water, forms hydrogen sulfide, the "sour" smell from pots and backed up drains. If the soil drains well and sprinklers were used to keep the newly planted plants watered, it's entirely possible they dried up. If water drains into the area and the soil is engineered, they may have drowned. If they were planted too near large expanses of concrete, it's possible the extra heat helped dry out the plants before their roots were sufficiently established to support them in the increased heat. There are many possibilities, including the fertilizer suggestion above. Might you have taken any photos of the plants before removing them? Those might help if you could share them. Kim...See MoreWintering over new roses in raised beds
Comments (13)I used my first raised bed last year. I only had three roses in it with a lot of perinials. Let Freedom Ring, Home and Family and Judy Garland. We had a late freeze this year and I lost 15 roses. Only one of these three got it. Judy Garland. One of my DW annual roses. Itis a Zone 6 rose. Should have never put it there in the first place. So I would say that I would winter it just as any other roses. I have two new raised beds this year. John...See MoreI'm new to roses and don't know what to do!
Comments (8)Hi, Fungicides range in prices, splurge a little on a real good one. Bayer 3 in 1 works great, Rose Pride is an alternative. DO NOT use Immunox, it is worthless against blackspot, but might be ok for mildew. If you can, I'd really advise planting them outside in full sun. Minis are very hardy in winter. Indoors they are susceptible to spider mites, and dont get enough sun even from the strongest light indoors. It's just not the same. This is maybe why yours are struggling. You'll be amazed how much they take off in the garden. I'd wait a month to see if the rose comes back, but most likely it won't. If you have chalky soil, which is better than clay, amend with compost and peat moss. And fertilize starting in Spring-they make fertilizer for roses-and continue once a month until September. Good luck! :) Jen...See MoreFirst winter with container plants. I'm sick with worry.
Comments (12)I am also in NY but and near Buffalo where we get those big lake effect pile-ups. I too am having my first winter with many new perennials and am a nervous wreck, so I can relate, but probably not help much because mine are in the ground. My dad is the tree expert and I called out to him and he says Japanese Maple is extremly fragile and he thinks borderline in hardiness in this area. It may be that with that one you will indeed need to seek really expert advice. It is true that plants native to this area live through the winter just fine, but the problems come in when people like us try to grow plants not native to the area, like my poor sage and thyme. I cut my woody small evergreems back and covered them with leaves and then pine branches. I uncovered them when we had that week of balmy weather that just ended and covered them back up two days ago. The best thing is when we get snow and it stays because that keeps everything at 32 degrees if they get covered up. The cover-up mulching is a precaution against the possibility of 10 degrees or less and little snow. Most shrubs have very flexible branches, but if you tell me what kinds I can help you more-those we do have, though they are not in containers. Young delicate trees or shrubs you may want to bring indoors if you can, even if you are going to leave them out when they get too big to move - at least they will be more established. In the future it may be a good idea to really research and select plants that are native to the north east, or that have naturalized well up here. Then you will not have the kind of worries that will remain constant with things like Japanese Maple. Dogwoods, European Mountain Ash, and even fruit trees thrive with no winter care and are very beautiful. White Birch adds a great contrast and thrives here, summac adds color all winter. Of course if you are confined to containers it limits what you can grow. Anyhow I have learned my lesson and am seriously researching what thrives in the conditions I plan to dump them in for winter/spring sowing and spring and summer planting this year. I am in Zone five and I try to select plants that are hardy to 4 and 3 so I dont have to worry about record breaking cold. While we are on wintering over, does anyone have an opinion or experience with Blue Sage, Garden Sage, Thyme, Oregano, Lavender or similiar (zones to five but originating in warmer drier climates) in cold climate winters? I covered mine, but worry about that keeping them too wet. The biggest worry is thaws because then they are in wet mulch and no light. However, the other extreme is 0 degrees and below. Vavsie...See Moreposeidonprincess
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Jasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18