I´m sorry I can´t offer any first hand help, because I have never gardened with snow, so I hope someone who does sees your post and answers in a more specific way.

Is there a way you can regularly shake the snow out of the branches of the more delicate things? Or isn´t this feasible? I´m sorry, I really have no idea, since it never snows where I live.

I do know that some trees, including conifers, are more able to cope with the weight of snow than others. Why don´t you post your question in the Trees forum as well? There´s a lot of knowlegeable people there and quite a few are in cold climates, so they should be able to advise you regarding the Japanese maple, at least.

Good luck and keep safe in the middle of the ice storms!
Eduarda

I am not an expert on this subject but have you considered calling NY Botanical gardens or Institue of Ecosystem Studies in Millwood, NY Telephone: 845-677-5343 (they get alot of snow, so may be able to help you) Or perhaps you can construct some teepees from plywood. You see them used a lot in upstate NY where snows are heavy.

I regularly go out with a broom to remove snow from my many plants including some in pots. With some of the larger trees, I bundle up and put my hood up and then give them a nice shake. Look out 'cause lots of snow comes down on your head. I actually have fun doing it. Just remember to be gentle. You don't have to get all the snow off, only what is weighing the branches down. This will help to prevent broken or bent limbs.

I have had dwarf alberta spruce in containers for the past several winters and they fo just fine. I don't do anything different. I wrapped my crepe myrtle container with a towel and plastic to insulate the pot a bit and mulched the exposed soil. I am hoping it will winter alright but I must admit this is a first for me with that particular plant. When we get heavy snow you can gently shake the branches of an evergreen tree to get the snow off if the tree looks like it is in stress. I would take a different approach with a japanese maple since it is such a delicate tree and its frozen branches may break. Even an evergreen can break is the branches are frozen (ONLY SHAKE IF A LIGHTWEIGHT SNOW!)The snow also does act as an insulator and sometimes letting nature take its course is the best preventive. Since you bought the correct plants for your zone and it sounds like they are sheltered from the winds - they will probably be fine. Hope your plants do well and hopefully the winter won't be too harsh.

WE HAD A FREAK SNOWFALL IN OREGON & THE YEW HAD BENT BRANCHES. I BRUSHED OFF THE SNOW, TIED A STOUT ROPE ALL AROUND THE TREE ABOUT 6 FT UP & FED 1/2 STRENGTH FERTILIZER 2-3X THAT SPRING... ONLY LOST 1 BRANCH OVERALL... K

I am also in NY but and near Buffalo where we get those big lake effect pile-ups. I too am having my first winter with many new perennials and am a nervous wreck, so I can relate, but probably not help much because mine are in the ground.

My dad is the tree expert and I called out to him and he says Japanese Maple is extremly fragile and he thinks borderline in hardiness in this area. It may be that with that one you will indeed need to seek really expert advice.

It is true that plants native to this area live through the winter just fine, but the problems come in when people like us try to grow plants not native to the area, like my poor sage and thyme. I cut my woody small evergreems back and covered them with leaves and then pine branches. I uncovered them when we had that week of balmy weather that just ended and covered them back up two days ago. The best thing is when we get snow and it stays because that keeps everything at 32 degrees if they get covered up. The cover-up mulching is a precaution against the possibility of 10 degrees or less and little snow.

Most shrubs have very flexible branches, but if you tell me what kinds I can help you more-those we do have, though they are not in containers. Young delicate trees or shrubs you may want to bring indoors if you can, even if you are going to leave them out when they get too big to move - at least they will be more established. In the future it may be a good idea to really research and select plants that are native to the north east, or that have naturalized well up here. Then you will not have the kind of worries that will remain constant with things like Japanese Maple. Dogwoods, European Mountain Ash, and even fruit trees thrive with no winter care and are very beautiful. White Birch adds a great contrast and thrives here, summac adds color all winter. Of course if you are confined to containers it limits what you can grow.

Anyhow I have learned my lesson and am seriously researching what thrives in the conditions I plan to dump them in for winter/spring sowing and spring and summer planting this year. I am in Zone five and I try to select plants that are hardy to 4 and 3 so I dont have to worry about record breaking cold.

While we are on wintering over, does anyone have an opinion or experience with Blue Sage, Garden Sage, Thyme, Oregano, Lavender or similiar (zones to five but originating in warmer drier climates) in cold climate winters? I covered mine, but worry about that keeping them too wet. The biggest worry is thaws because then they are in wet mulch and no light. However, the other extreme is 0 degrees and below.

Vavsie

If you can site your potted japanese maple where it gets more overhead protection from the elements, do so. Removing snow by shaking it or brushing it with a broom is an option, but would need to be done very gently. Also keep it out of freezing rains or ice storms if you can, especially during this first year.

As for Hooti's question, in general, sages, herbs, salvia type plants don't like to be sodden in the winter. Even here in Texas, this can kill some of the less hardy selections through root rot. If your covering is letting water in and holding it against the plant, as opposed to keeping water off, this may not be a good idea.

I think that you just need to do as suggested and brush the worst of the snow off that is bending the plant down. The biggest worry in our area is when we have freezing rain that coats the branches and causes freezing and snapping of the branches, especially if there is a high wind following the ice storms.
For the herbs,letting them have *wet feet* all winter isn't a great idea. :( That will kill the plants faster than any snow.

Kathie
*ReddKatt*

Broken branches on Japanese maple are a slow regrow and styling; don't expect anything pretty for a long while. Under some roof like sructure is the only place for them in snow areas as the branches are brittle in cold and have weak crotches (please spare the attendant sniggering; you know who you are...).

The herbs in upstate NY are a crapshoot (See warning above). While everything other than the lavender should be okay in the ground, dampness is indeed a factor; ensuring good drainage in the bed is a must for growing herbs. But with the snow covers you get and prolonged cold, they should be okay. Just try and get them uncovered and dried out as soon as possible in the spring, cleaning off any spent foliage (damp really means fungus is the issue more than the moisture itself).

We have Japanese Maples in the Toronto area and they sometimes need help depending how mature they are. I would suggest you wrap the tree in burlap for the rest of the winter after brushing off as much snow as you can. We wrap a lot of our shrubs and small trees this way to protect from the snow and salt. If you can move it move it out of any northerly wind. Good Luck.

Thanks for your note. Here's a question though... when you say wrap the tree in burlap, do you mean the pot and around the entire tree? If so, how do you secure the burlap around the branches themselves, so that they cover the branches, but at the same time, don't weigh down on them, or break them?

Tx.

I move all but one of my container plants under the deck roof for the winter. I figure it'll protect them from the elements and sort of keep them warm. The one container I don't move--because it's too heavy--has a Rose of Sharon and some vinca in it. Plus some daffs and hyacinths. That one's held up pretty good over the years.