Crown rot in overwintered pots. Operator error?
newhostalady Z6 ON, Canada
6 years ago
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Overwintering roses in pots
Comments (34)Jim, "So there are lots of questions like how big a pot for a climber? When to put it in the greenhouse? When to take it ou, etc. Then the basic question how will they fare to be in a pot permanently?" My experience in zone 5 with potted climbing roses; Get the largest pot you can handle. I've used the very large black nursery tree pots with success. I use a two wheeled dolly to move them. The eventual size of the plant is limited by the size of the roots so the larger the pot the larger the plant. In our zone, a too small of a pot will allow it to freeze solid in an unheated greenhouse. Because light conditions and humidity are the same as outdoors in a greenhouse, I move them into the greenhouse in late fall before it gets too cold outdoors. My greenhouse has sliding side panels which I open on nice days. It's actually an old Wal*Mart parking lot greenhouse that I picked out of a dumpster. Mine does not include the shoppers or displays but does have all the shelves plus the pipes for hanging baskets. I used them to fasten my overhead watering system to. I generally move my potted roses inside on a nice day in late November. This year I moved them outdoors too early and lost a few due to the April freeze. They were leafing out well and the weather was good prior to the freeze. I had done it at similar times in previous years with great success. From now on I'll wait until mid to late April. Even most hardy climbers will lose canes due to winter dieback. I've only got a few that keep canes and most of those are once bloomers. I bought a lot of "hardy" climbers from Great Lakes Roses. They all experienced winter dieback but came back well. I provided no winter protection so am satisfied that "hardy" meant crown hardy. That to me is more important than cane hardiness. At this time of my life I've accepted the fact that my climbers will be tall shrubs until late July. This works well for me as I can plant them closer together. I was able to protect canes on a few potted climbers by placing them all together next to a low stone wall and surrounding them with bagged leaves over which I then piled loose leaves. When removed this spring all the canes were green to the tips. Unfortunately the April freeze killed most of those long green canes. I was between a rock and a hard place though. By keeping them covered they would have been lost to canker. Next year I'll move them into the greenhouse after I uncover them. Temperatures in an unheated greenhouse will get close to the outside temperature at night but can get 40 degrees or more higher during the day when the sun is shining. I've seen inside greenhouse temps well into the 80s on sunny days in late February with outdoor temps in the teens. I find this not a problem. I will just open the door or a side panel a little to vent it. 200 growing rooted cuttings picked up in late February, repotted, and left unprotected in the greenhouse did fine and survived the April freeze just fine. The only thing I did was to provide air circulation. Other potted roses overwintered in the greenhouse greened up as usual this spring but I moved them outdoors in late March as I usually do and lost lots of them due to the April freeze. This was the first time I've had this happen in all my years of overwintering roses in the greenhouse. Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Mart Greenhouse at Poly-Tex...See MoreCrown rot?
Comments (9)Dear Deanna, Crown rot is a very generic description that covers a lot of different issues. There are several diseases that can affect roots or stems leading to rot. Some are soil borne, others can be transmitted by cutting, others from damage from over watering, fertilizer burn, etc. I do all of my dividing in July and August, the hot times when hosta roots are the most active and will heal and recover the quickest. Personally I wouldn't worry about bare root plants in general. They should be cleaned of any soil - if there is mud or dirt on the roots get rid of it. You don't want to take the chance of any fungus being in the soil. As for planting depth, the primary reason this can cause a problem is from poor aeration. Hostas like lots of oxygen at the root zone. Planting "too deep" is a misnomer since hostas in properly aerated soil will easily adjust their depth as needed, and in nature the crowns, roots, and dormant eyes are buried. If your soil is kept light and fluffy, and isn't hard, compact, and poorly draining, then the eyes, crown, and roots of a dormant plant should be completely covered (the way they will be in nature). If the plant is already leafed out, however, then you should plant at the previous depth they were growing. Stems will have a protective layer near the base to keep the soil off them, and if you go any deeper you could rot the stems. If the grower made the mistake of planting the crown above the soil, and it is leafed out, then depth changes will need to be done in the fall as they go dormant and the stems will adjust to the proper depth in the spring. As for potting soil, you also want a coarse, well-draining, well aerated mixture for best growth. If you incorporate dirt or use a heavy, moisture retentive media then there can be problems, especially if you ever over winter them in zone 5. Heavy potting mixes are fine in some parts of the country, but not in the coldest areas. And hostas will get nice thick roots in a coarse mix and spindly roots in a dense mix. Also, those heavy, wet soils will require planting the roots high to prevent problems, due to the lack of aeration. I use a potting soil that has about 60% peat and about 40% pine bark. Water goes right through this mixture, so I really soak them about 3 times a week and let them dry out between watering. The plants develop a thick root system that can fend for themselves better. You can plant dormant, bare root hostas as soon as the frost is out of the soil and the garden is workable and drains after a rain. You don't want to plant if the soil is wet and sticky at the height of "mud season". If your bare root plants are leafed out early but you are still getting frosts then you will want to pot and protect them before planting permanently outdoors. If I'm getting bare root plants from much warmer zones I always ask to have them sent while dormant, if possible, or I have them hold them until my own plants are leafing out. I'm often planting bare root hostas here in my gardens in southern michigan, not far from Ken, towards the end of April. If I can till the garden and the soil is nice and friable then it is fine to plant. Well, I'm not sure if that helped much or was more confusing, but hopefully it helped. Chris...See MoreCan I save this one - Crown Rot??
Comments (9)Under a hard spraying hose nozzle, get all the potting stuff off. Pull off any rotted roots or mush crown material, and see what you have left. Soak that in 10% bleach solution for about 20 min. Then plant in some fine bark in a pot that just barely has room for those roots, and water it. Don't keep it soggy wet, just moist. Before I knew about using bleach, I used a strong solution of Daconil fungicide. Sometimes these days, I do the beach, then a few days later water it with fungicide solution so I cover all the bases. Then, keep your fingers crossed and see what happens. ...or throw it on the driveway, preferably in the sun, and that should kill the bacteria/fungus or it will kill the hosta. It's a craps shoot. But actually very rewarding when one comes back from the dead so to speak. I have a few like that and they are a little more special because of all we have been through together. -Babka...See MoreAll year outside potted growers, how do you prevent root rot,keep dry?
Comments (25)Thanks guys! Laura, my rodent problem is mostly squirrel. They just de-pot everything. I move the plants out of the cage only when they reach a size that can handle their roughness :) Rina, yes the GH set up is not ideal for light but I did not have much other choice and still has other pros. Thanks to that roof the temps are higher longer in the winter and cooler in the summer. I don't need to heat or fan or cover. I originally got it to protect my tropicals and for seed starters. Got tired of wheeling pots in and out of the dark garage on a daily basis in winter...So these are pretty much dormant when in the GH. I built a heated chamber in the corner with the least light for my seed starters that is also supplemented with some LED. The rest is filled with young seedlings up to 1-2 year old or so. So overall not too much of a problem for this usage but if it were my property I would definitely cut out a couple of skylights on that roof :)....See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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