It looks like you overwatered the plant, which could be the reason why the leaves are yellowed and shriveled in places. The use of the hairdryer (never a great idea) could have very easily burned the leaves and caused them to turn yellow. In your photos, I see some leaves are yellow at the base; these leaves are done for, I would cut them off and be done with it. They won't recover... If there are any leaves which are bright green and healthy, those will do just fine. Using a finger to test the soil is a very good way to measure the dryness/wetness level of the plant. You mentioned trying this and that the soil was only slightly damp. Another test is to pick up the whole pot. If it's extremely heavy you may have overwatered. (Conversely, if it's very light it will need some water ASAP!) Always be sure your plant can drain off excess water and that it never sits in water for a prolonged period of time. Checking the roots will help you assess the damage level of the root system. If it's stinky or mushy, it's rotting. cut away any roots that are brown and mushy. Roots that are yellow or white are healthy. I would suggest letting the plant dry out before watering again. Also I might add that the heater nearby could be drying out the plant prematurely, causing it to need more water more often. Be sure the window it is near is not too cold; this can cause yellowing of leaves too. Good luck!

Ken, Here's a pic before I staked it: This is it almost exactly a year ago from pretty close to the same camera angle but much closer up (you can tell how much the foliage has increased by the sheer # of leaves): There are two main leaders at this point, both suffering from the same top-heavy problem and leaning in the same direction. So I used two 6' plastic stakes about 2 feet away and twine+velcro straps to pull them upright and slightly separate them. How long do you think I should expect to leave it staked? I'd rather not do it for long if I can help it . . . just long enough for the branches to strengthen. It didn't have this problem last year but I'd say it has >3 times the foliage now. It's definitely a JM but I can't guarantee how true to bloodgood it will be. It grew up under a mature bloodgood at my dad's house, presumably from seed? Either way I'm expecting it to be large for a JM . . . its parent tree is probably 15' high with an 8-10" trunk, and is at least 15-20 years old. This one is in a spot where that size would be fine, so I'm not worried about its growth potential . . . I just don't want abnormally fast growth to keep it from being the beautiful tree it has the potential to be. Thanks again.

Trees that have been staked at the nursery don't have a chance to produce 'reaction' wood in response to wind movement. Instead their trunks are weak from being tightly lashed to the stake and being unable to move. Your goal will be to stake your tree according to industry standards, allowing it to move a bit within the smooth ties. Use 2-inch wood stakes and attach an old piece of hose with wire run through it. You should be able to remove the stakes in about a year. Be sure to gradually move your drip emitters out to the edges of the branches as your tree grows. This will leave dryer soil near the trunk and your tree will be less likely to blow over in winds. Here's a link to planting guidelines from the University of Arizona. Research shows that plants installed in this manner established more quickly than using other methods. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting Guidelines

Thanks for the info dcsteg/Ken, sorry bout the size of the pics didnt realize just how big til now, I will have to resize them or something. I know these trees can get tremendous if allowed, they are planted 3.5 feet from the fence and only one tree per section of fence, I appreciate the concern about the fence but it was a spite fence erected by my neighbor dividing the front yards, making for a distinct eyesore where a park like setting once was. My thinking is the best way to return it to a nice setting is some forestation.