Welcome silvergirl. How exciting to watch and wait and see what pops up. My garden is mostly about to burst. Here's what's already blooming: Clematis H.F. Young (fading and falling in the rain - - it was prolific this year) Lupines fernleaf bleeding heart lady's mantle knockout roses (just started popping) wooly thyme hens & chicks (one sprouted a pink flower, prompting DS to disown it) azalea lonicera sempervirens 'manifich' columbine huechera (forgot the variety - - purple & silver) creeping phlox (pink) dianthus about to burst: Peonies styrax japonicus more lupines more knockout roses clematis 'Durandii' I'm going to the Cape this weekend and my dad is staying at the house. I hope it rains so I don't have to count on him to water, but I hope it doesn't rain hard enough to ruin the peony blossoms that are bound to pop while I'm gone.

Lithops are late summer thru winter growers and are dormant now. Here is a pic of some of my Lithops. They look like crap, but they won’t in a couple months. Lithops absorb everything out of the old leaves for the new. Once this reabsorbing process is done, all that’s left of the old leaves is paper. This paper protects the Lithops from the summer sun. They will also shrink into the mix, almost burying themselves. The little guy below doesn’t want to come out, but once the growing season comes, it’ll plump up and burst thru the papery sheath. They really don’t need water when they absorb the old leaves for the new, if they do get too much moisture during this time, problems can occur. I‘m fairly certain that’s what happened to yours. I’ve seen this happen to others’ Lithops. The old leaves will burst or rot and expose the underdeveloped leaves underneath. I have never had success growing underdeveloped Lithops leaves. They bruise super easy and never fully develop. Your first instinct is to take off the old leaves, but whenever I’ve done this the new leaves never make it. I would leave the old set of leaves on and cross my fingers. Hopefully the old leaves will protect the new underdeveloped leaves as they mature a little bit. Don’t hold your breath tho. Who knows you may have success at this🙂. I’m telling you what I would do, but they are yours, so do what you feel is right. I’d leave them be for a month or so. No water, no nothin during this month. Around mid to late August is when their growing season starts, this is a great time to repot into a new faster draining mix. About a week after the repot is when to water. I water mine from mid August thru December. Give or take a month. Winter thru spring is when they absorb the old for the new, and really don’t need water during this time. Others grow their Lithops differently, but this is what I do🤪. More Lithops info.

It’s in a drainage pot inside the ceramic pot, it’s not been watered for about 2 weeks! I thought over watering too but I’ve only watered it twice since buying it in mid December! it could be cold As the house gets quite cold in the day? I’m just wondering if it’s salvagable? I’ve cut off the rotting bit and am hoping it helps 🤷🏼‍♀️

Roots look ok. Your plant would MUCH rather be repotted in June (if you live in the N Hemisphere) than in the fall. "It takes a while" is too vague to help us decide how appropriate the grow medium is/isn't. I suggest you start using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. See "Tell" below. The all-important question is 'what to do to save it'. The answer to that, though broad, is, examine the cultural influences under which the plant grows. At least one, maybe more are asking the plant to deal with conditions it's not genetically programmed to deal with. This Overview should help you decide what needs tweaking. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al