Welcome silvergirl. How exciting to watch and wait and see what pops up. My garden is mostly about to burst. Here's what's already blooming: Clematis H.F. Young (fading and falling in the rain - - it was prolific this year) Lupines fernleaf bleeding heart lady's mantle knockout roses (just started popping) wooly thyme hens & chicks (one sprouted a pink flower, prompting DS to disown it) azalea lonicera sempervirens 'manifich' columbine huechera (forgot the variety - - purple & silver) creeping phlox (pink) dianthus about to burst: Peonies styrax japonicus more lupines more knockout roses clematis 'Durandii' I'm going to the Cape this weekend and my dad is staying at the house. I hope it rains so I don't have to count on him to water, but I hope it doesn't rain hard enough to ruin the peony blossoms that are bound to pop while I'm gone.

Normal potting mix for a succulent generally retains too much moisture, and 50% coarse sand helps but probably does not tip the balance. If you do not want to hassle with creating your own mix from scratch, I would change the soil to 50% commercial "cactus mix" and 50% perlite. I prefer pumice to perlite since it is heavier and does not float. Since you have your own greenhouse, I am wondering do you have a lot of succulents, and are most of those in the same soil and thriving? Is there any chance the greenhouse becomes extremely humid or hot?

Roots look ok. Your plant would MUCH rather be repotted in June (if you live in the N Hemisphere) than in the fall. "It takes a while" is too vague to help us decide how appropriate the grow medium is/isn't. I suggest you start using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. See "Tell" below. The all-important question is 'what to do to save it'. The answer to that, though broad, is, examine the cultural influences under which the plant grows. At least one, maybe more are asking the plant to deal with conditions it's not genetically programmed to deal with. This Overview should help you decide what needs tweaking. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Sometimes oedema/edema could leave similar scars if extensive (I never saw it so bad). It isn't disease but disorder. Affected leaves don't improve, but either (sunburn or oedema) wouldn't spread & are more cosmetic damages. Oedema happens because of incorrect watering (if yours is, it is quite extensive). Leaves likely slowly dry up and fall off. What I said about getting damaged plant is just a suggestion - some damage could be fixed easy. And you can learn something! I just think it is a lot of damage & hope the price was right...hope your other succulent is in god shape! Do you know what is it? If not, post a photo & it may be ID-ed...