As a general rule, symptoms related to cultural stress factors are going to show up in the lighter areas of variegation on variegated plants. Karen is right in that there is not enough info, but the usual suspects when it comes to spider plants are A) over-watering, potentially exacerbated by an inappropriately water-retentive medium, B) a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution, or C) fluoride toxicity. Something I wrote about their cultural wants: While necrotic leaf tips or margins can occur in this plant from over/under-watering, in fact, it's also very common for the actual cause to be a high level of soluble salts in soils. It's also habitually reported that this plant is particularly intolerant or fluoride, but it's still more common for the cause of leaf burn to be a high level of solubles, to which fluoride can be a contributor, than it is to be fluoride itself. WHEN there is a high level of salts in the soil, low humidity can be a contributor, but low humidity alone rarely presents an issue, it must be in combination with a high level of soluble salts in the soil or either over/under-watering. Of course, you cannot correct the already burned leaf tips and margins (they won't 'heal'), but you can take steps to keep it from happening: A) Most important is to use a soil that drains very freely. This allows you to water copiously, flushing the accumulating salts from the soil each time you water. B) Fertilize frequently when the plant is growing well, but at low doses - perhaps 1/4 the recommended strength. This, in combination with the favorable watering habit described above, will keep soluble salts levels low, and keep levels from rising due to the accumulative effect we always see when we are forced to water in sips when plants are in water-retentive soils. C) When watering, using rainwater, snow melt, water from your dehumidifiers, or distilled water also eliminates the soluble salts in your tap water and will go a long way toward eliminating or minimizing leaf burn. D) If you make your own soils and use perlite, be sure the perlite is rinsed thoroughly, which removes most of the fluorides associated with it's use. E) Allowing water to rest overnight doesn't/won’t do anything in the way of helping reduce the amount of fluoride (the compounds are not volatile), and it only helps with chlorine in a very few cases, depending on what method of chlorination was used to treat your tap water; but nearly all municipalities are currently using chlorination compounds that are entirely nonvolatile, which means they won’t dissipate into the air. Al

You are in South Florida. I would suggest repotting now as Spring is starting. Find some small/medium bark. Soak it for a few hours to take up water. Add a little sphag moss to the mix and repot the plant. If you can put your plant outside, all the better. As the above poster asked, make sure the pot has drain holes. Orchids do not like wet conditions. They like air movement. Your plant might have some fungal issues going on now so repotting is important. You can remove the yellowing leaf. Your plant will start its growing cycle and grow new leaves. I'm in Sarasota and all my Phals are outside facing East. They love that exposure and are all blooming or spiking now. Please read about your plant it will help you along the way. How to grow Phals Jane

Any idea what’s going on here? It had a few spots a couple days ago and I just assumed it was because of the sun (SoCal has been v hot lately). Today I came out to find multiple leaves like this. Anything I can do to stop it spreading? Does it look like just sun damage? Noob here, I’d appreciate some help!

It’s in a drainage pot inside the ceramic pot, it’s not been watered for about 2 weeks! I thought over watering too but I’ve only watered it twice since buying it in mid December! it could be cold As the house gets quite cold in the day? I’m just wondering if it’s salvagable? I’ve cut off the rotting bit and am hoping it helps 🤷🏼‍♀️