Frill Top Drapery - Backing Band - Advice/Photos Please

6 years ago

I am assisting my Dd in making drapery. She wants a header to be a "frill top" "cottage pleat" "gathered heading with Stand Up Frill" style. These drapes will be functional and center draw. They will be lined and interlined. The interlining feels like soft flannel pj material. The drapery finished length will be 102". We are sewing 1-1/2 widths of (54" fabric) together for each panel.

My concern is that the drapery hooks & the header can support the weight of the panel. Sewn together, the three layers of fabric (102" long) are very heavy.

We are using the book: Encyclopaedia of Curtains - Revised Edition (Merrick & Day). We are going to use the hand-sewn gather method. Three rows of running stitches sewn across the top of the heading & the threads are drawn up to form gathers. The hand sewn gathers are supported by a lining band sewn at the back of the heading. The backing band is also used to support pin hooks.

Our heading will be 5" (The top 3" will be the frill, the bottom 2" will be where we sew the 3 rows of gathering stitches).

In the book, Step 7 (see photo) says "To make a backing band for the heading, cut a strip of fusible heading buckram, or soft webbing, the depth of the gathers + 1/2" x the finished curtain width. Wrap lining around the buckram & iron in place".

Step 8 says "Pin the backing band to the back of the curtains, taking care to evenly disperse the gathers across the top of the heading.

Slip stitch the band in place, ensuring to catch every gather pleat to prevent the gathers from moving. Insert pin hooks along the buckram band every 4-5".

P.S. I've made drapery in the past, but never with this type of header. Dd likes the soft look of this hand-gathered heading.

Do you have drapery with a similar header (top of the drapery)? Is it functional (opened & closed regularly)? Does it have a backing band to support the gathers, the hooks/drapery pins, & the overall weight of the drapes? Can you share photos (front & back) of the header (especially the back where the hooks are inserted)? If you made the drapes, can you give me advice?

Featured Answer

shadylady2u

6 years ago

I gave instructions for these a few years back. I used shirring tape. Much easier than this method. Just push the pins right thru the linings in the tape being careful not to go thru the face fabric.

Only problem is they're not functional. This style is stationary only.

Here's the thread if you're still interested:

about those cuffed drapes

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Comments (13)

Laurie
Original Author
6 years ago
shadylady - Thank you for responding. I did not know that this heading style was for stationary drapes.

Your drapes are beautiful! Is there any shirring tape that is "heavy duty" and can be used for functional drapery? What is your favorite brand of tape?

These drapes will need to be functional, so now I will explore what can be done or modified to create a relaxed header that can be opened & closed.

I have been looking at these videos. Check out part 5 of 5. How to Make Thermally Lined Curtains - National Trust - Part 5 of 5 She uses a gathering tape on her header. As she hangs them (at the end of part 5), her curtains look like they will be functional. Part 4 shows the gathering tape being sewn on.
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shadylady2u
6 years ago
First, thank you and you're welcome!

I bought my tape from Rowley and I'm not sure what brand it is. I don't think there's a heavy duty exactly. As long as you use the sew on tape (not the iron on) and put your pin into the lining also, they should be OK. The tape used in the video must be something sold in England because the tape here doesn't have the little pin pocket, at least none that I have seen.

You could open and close them to a point, but the stackback just wouldn't be good because of the bulk and no spaces. When you make pleats, you have the spaces that scrunch up tight. With the tape, you can only get it to scrunch up so much. I notice in that video she made them the full width of the window so they're closed up completely, but if she wants to open them, they'll only open so much.

I suppose not gathering the tape up tightly might help some but I just don't see how it can be completely functional.
Laurie thanked shadylady2u
Laurie
Original Author
6 years ago
I always learn something new when I read your posts. Thank you.

I'll likely order a few different types of gather tapes & make some small mock up headers. There is some type of "physics" involved with headers & opening - closing of drapes.
shadylady2u
6 years ago
Glad I could help a little. Mockups are helpful. I can't think of a way to give her the look she wants that can be fully opened and closed. Any style that can be fully opened and closed would have to give a pleated look rather than a shirred look.

Can she put another pair of panels under them or shades, so she can just leave them open?
Laurie thanked shadylady2u
Laurie
Original Author
6 years ago
We'll get together this weekend and I'll give her your suggestions and see what she thinks.

I am under the impression that she doesn't require that the header be uniformly neat and tidy...when the drape is pulled closed, the header doesn't need to be spaced/gathered all the same across the pole. When the drapes are open, the folds/ frill & entire header could be scrunched/gathered together & not neat/perfect. I'm having a hard time trying to express this, but that's the best I can do for now.

It's really good how you are making me think about all of this well before we get to starting on the header. This weekend, we'll likely do cutting of the lining & then hemming of the fabric and hemming the lining.

When you made your drapes (pictured in your link), what width was your gathering tape 1", 2", 3", 4"? How many inches of fabric did you leave ABOVE the tape in order to get that nice "frill" on the top?

I found this 3" Pencil Pleat Curtain Tape from the UK. I sent them an email asking if the tape had channels for metal drapery pins to be inserted and they replied "yes".

I like your idea of using some sort of tape (& thanks for reminding me not to use iron on!). Using tape would give the header a stable machine stitch all the way around, giving nice structure and ability to hold the weight of the entire panel.

If we used 3" tape, that only leaves 2" above the tape for "frill". I have seen some 2" tapes and some 1" tapes which would leave more room for frill. For those smaller size tapes, I may need to buy shorter pins/hooks. Or, I may need to hand sew drapery hooks/pins?
shadylady2u
6 years ago
The tape I used is about 1 1/2" with 2 cords. I started the top stitching line down 2 1/2" so it's a 2 1/2" frill. I used a regular size drapery pin. You can just push it in the linings and it won't pull out. I don't think you can sew the pins on. I suppose you could always make little tabs or loops and sew them on, but it would be a bit of work.

The Pencil Pleat tape will give a different look than the pics you posted. Still pretty but different. More of a structured look.

I understand what you're saying about making them not so neat and tidy, but I still don't think that'll work out quite the way you expect.
Laurie thanked shadylady2u
Laurie
Original Author
6 years ago
I really appreciate the details you provided me about your tape measurement : that it's 2 cords, your frill size, & use of a regular drapery pin..

I will look for a tape with 2 cords that's 1 1/2" - 2".

Because she wants to open & close the drapes, I think there will be a certain amount of stress on the lining & the tape...something I'll need to consider.

As you mentioned in another previous post, the cords on the tape will not be pulled "all the way" / "to a tight scrunch" before knotting/securing the cords. We'll need to pull the tape cords only to the point where the panel measures the finished needed width (so it can meet the other panel in the center and so it can meet the wall on the "return" ).

The mock up will help us discover what to do. Keep on sending any more ideas or insight you come up with. You are a VERY helpful person!
Laurie
Original Author
6 years ago
Here's the beginning stages of mock up header practice. In these practice headers, I am not using the actual drapery fabric (to save on expense). This is not the actual rod & rings to be used in the final drapery. I used one of the rods currently in my home.

One header is using train print fabric, lavender felt (which is much thicker than the actual interlining) & muslin for lining. I used the hand sewn method I mentioned in my first post. I made a backing band (covered in the actual lining that will be used) & hand stitched it to the gathered portion of the header. Instead of using buckram for the band, I used something a bit more pliable, so not to be too stiff. I was thinking that if I used buckram, the drapery may not scrunch up very well when moving the drapery from the closed position to the opened position.

The next header to try out will use a solid silver fabric, thin cotton flannel (to represent the interlining) & the actual lining fabric. I have not sewn this practice header, yet. I could not find a 1 1/2" - 2" gather tape. I found two different 1" tapes (both have 2 cords). Not sure which one to use. The one that has the "channels" for inserting drapery pins/hooks is a little bit thinner than the other one. Since these drapes will be opened & closed daily, the slightly thicker one may be better for inserting hooks. See beginning pics of this header in my next post (I reached my photo maximum allowed in this post already)

Another thought I had was...I could hand sew small rings to the back of the finished header so I won't need to insert the hooks directly into any of the bands or fabric? In the last pics, you can see how the drapery hooks move out of vertical position easily. That may not work out well when opening & closing drapes.

I noticed that they sell drapery hooks in different sizes. I may be able to get smaller ones than what I currently have.

Keep in mind that the actual fabric we will use in the final project has a softer and more supple feel to it compared to any of my practice fabric. The actual fabric is a blend : cotton 46%, wool 26%, silk 28%. It is solid & color is silver.

The practice header is narrower than the actual width of the final drape. First pic represents "closed drape", second pic is "opened". Third pic is open (top view), fourth is closed. Last pic shows how hook moves...not sure what that will do to fabric over time.
Laurie
Original Author
6 years ago
The next header to try out will use a solid silver fabric, thin cotton
flannel (to represent the interlining) & the actual lining fabric. I
have not sewn this practice header, yet. I could not find a 1 1/2" -
2" gather tape. I found two different 1" tapes (both have 2 cords).
Not sure which one to use. The one that has the "channels" for
inserting drapery pins/hooks is a little bit thinner than the other
one. Since these drapes will be opened & closed daily, the slightly thicker one may be better for inserting hooks.
shadylady2u
5 years ago
The tape I used is like the one on the left and in the last pic. It's probably just a little wider because it's a different manufacturer. What you're calling a channel for pins is actually not. It's just the space needed to draw up the cords. Not sure it would support the pins if just put in there. You're probably better off to sew rings on.

The tape on the right is another type of shirring tape, I think for sheers, to gather it up.

The smaller size drapery pin is for lightweight or sheer fabrics. May not be able to hold up the weight of your fabric, lining and interlining.

Honestly, I don't care much for the look of your sample when opened. Looks messy and you lose the look you're actually going for, but if your daughter likes the look then go for it.
Laurie thanked shadylady2u
Laurie
Original Author
5 years ago
shadylady - Thank you for letting me know that the tape you used is like the one on the left. I ordered some small rings, smaller (1") hooks, and 3" pencil pleat tape (with 3 cords) to experiment with for next week.

I appreciate you taking the time to read all of my posts and getting back to me with your opinions and suggestions. There's a lot of detail involved with this project and it helps to get feedback.

In the first practice header, I have the drapery hooks too far apart and the felt is way too thick.

Today, I sewed the 1" shirring tape to the "silver header" (using dark thread in case I need to rip it out at some point). I pulled the 2 cords & knotted them. I placed the hooks 4" apart and hung it up (see photos).

This second practice header is shorter in length than the first. With the weight of full length drapes, these headers won't "tip over" so much. Also, if they had finished side seams, hooks at each end, and secured around the "return" at the wall at the far end, there would be more stability.

These mocks ups are helping to get a very rough idea of how the headers will look. When I'm done with the mock ups, my daughter can see which one she likes best. Or, she may even decide that she wants to do a pinch pleat which would provide a neat & tidy stack back.

First two pics are "closed". Pics three & four are "opened". Pic five is top view of "opened". Pic six is top view of "closed".
Laurie
Original Author
5 years ago
I received more items to experiment with (from Online Fabric Store). I now have a 3" pencil pleat shirring tape, some 5/8" white Urea rings, & some 1" pin-on drapery hooks.

The 3" tape will give a shirred header look similar to the video I linked in my April 23 post. In that video, I believe she placed her tape fairly close to the top of the header. For the next practice header, I will likely place it 1 1/2 - 2" below the top.

The 1" pin-on hooks may be useful in my previous practice headers (where the tape is narrower).

The white plastic urea rings could be used with pin hooks or they could be used with clips. So, more variables to play around with. The urea rings don't fit onto the 1" pins, but they do fit onto the 1 1/2" pins.

3" pencil pleat shirring tape

These photos, below, show various hook/pin placement possibilities in the "channels". I read somewhere that 2 hooks are sometimes used (side by side) for added support. These are shown with the 1 1/2" hook/pin.