1980's kitchen has sage countertops. Can't renovate now, so.....
Mehna Miller
6 years ago
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aprilneverends
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoJennifer K
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Starting Over 1930s - 1980s kitchen
Comments (23)I'll be contrary and say I'm against keeping that cabinet. The "old" cabinet is a hybrid from the (I'd say 50's-60's) previous renovation and the original cabinet. The bottom is original and the top has clutzy replacement doors instead of the (probably) of inset doors, the new doors were probably an attempt to blend the new cabinets with the old. The kitchen probably had one of those long wall sinks with integral drainboards in that area and the photos show the newly improved arrangement with only one small full depth base cabinet - the sink base. If you keep it, I think you can't place the dishwasher where you've drawn it - I don't think you have even 18" for a dw between where a farm sink cabinet would be and the edge of the antique base cabinet. You already know that its height from the countertop prevents you from using that counter space for anything but storage. If you keep it, you might look for new doors for it and a better companion cabinet for the other side of the sink window. The wall cabinet there looks like a replacement ir later addition anyway. Doing the return (making the little "L" on the dining room side) doesn't actually get you much - you lose more of the easy storage in the corner, the upper becomes more difficult to use and you don't really gain USEFUL counterspace because you can't use the counter in the corner. A lot of this will have different charateristics than it does now because you're much further away from that upper when you use standard size cabinets. The "L" prevents changing the dw to the left side of the sink - again I think that's necessary if you want to save the antique cabinet. In what I drew, You can have the ref where drawn free standing or with a small pantry that opens towards the bathroom. If you choose to do a range in that location, the suggestion above for an antique range is a good one - craig's list sometimes has chambers and others listed for baltimore that work and are reasonable. The issue with an unrestored antique range is SAFTEY. They sometimes have problems with gas leaks, rust or ovens that don't work right. You could also maybe do the 40" Frigidaire for something that feels more like an older style. Lots more cash than that gets you a restored antique range. Some more cash gets you something really stylish like this bert. At about that level of pricing, you can just reach a pro style range like an american or blue star. In any event, What you can't do is keep that partly old cabinet and "recounter" it deeper, put a counter in front of the window and expect to be able to reach inside it on either the uppers or the lowers (without crawling). By increasing the depth of the counter, you're increasing your distance from the upper and you won't be able to reach as well as you could before. You also won't be able to use either of the drawers because of the extended depth of the counter. I had to laugh about the wall fan (I have one). Isn't your kitchen greasy? Don't you spend time cleaning the grease off those pipes and the exhaust fan itself? Don't you find kinda gory dust on the ceiling fan - dust that clumps up because of the grease? Little flecks of greasy stuff on the walls and cabinets that are nearly impossible to clean off? Here is a link that might be useful: Frigidaire range...See MoreSo many questions for my Kitchen Renovation
Comments (10)That island already has very tight clearances, and if you try to cram seats in the space, you're going to end up with a traffic jam and some accidents. It already needs to be narrower, and then you want seating for 5? Gonna be tough to accomplish safely. There's only the single drawer stack to the right of the sink. That's not great for your storage needs. Drawers hold a lot more than do doors with shelves. To be able to put in a large pro style range, you will need to rework the entire stove run, base and uppers. The easiest thing would be to take the cabinets down entirely, as you'll need a larger vent that won't work with that size uppers. That vent will need to vent to the exterior. Which means going up through the roof or horizontally through a wall to the exterior. If you also want to add a wall oven, probably beside the fridge or at the end of the run on the fridge wall, then that entire run will need to be redone as well. There are several other issues that need remedy such as the shallow above the fridge cabinet. Potentially the soffit itself. You've already spent more in labor than the cabinets cost the builder. 2-3K in labor. The cabinets do not look to be worth paying labor to paint. It's certainly not a granite kitchen without new cabinets. Professionally painting would be around 3-4K for your layout and you're still left with builder's grade cabs with paint with all of their current storage issues and lack of quality. If you can DIY paint them as an interim solution for a couple of years until you do a full scale remodel that would be a different story. DIY labor is always worth doing if you don't kill yourself doing it. But the moment you start having to pay labor, that becomes the point that this kitchen isn't worth reworking cosmetically. It's time to address the bones. Take the 7K that it would cost you to do the cabinet alterations and paint and buy new cabinets after posting your layout here for suggestions for optimum efficiency. That means that your project won't be done before you move in, but it's better that it's delayed and done right than done in a rush with not so great results. Also, be very sure that you want to live with a dark floor if it's as dark as it sounds. Dark floors show every bit of dust and dirt and aren't the easiest thing to live with even if you don't have kids. Medium toned floors are more forgiving. But, if you LOVE that floor, and you're fully informed and willing to take on it's upkeep, then by all means go for it! Buy plenty of extra so that when you redo your kitchen, you have enough to work with an altered layout....See MoreWe need help with 1980's wood paneling.
Comments (12)The first question is, "Do you want to keep the paneling?" If you do, then as others have pointed out, a decent carpenter can fix that. However, if you do not want to keep the paneling, there are TONS of options. You can dry wall it or if you want something a bit more interesting, you could tile it. With products like Schluter & Wedi, tiling is not the hassle it was before. And there are gorgeous peel and stick tiles that look great. You can get some of the relly nice fake stone panels. Most of these are so good, uyou cannot tell they are not real stone. There are stone veneer panels that actually are rea stone but sliced extremely thin. There are gorgeous PVC-type panels that look like real tile & stone. You could put up bead board, diferent paneling, or a dozen different things. A different thought would be that you could get some nice bookcases and have built-in bookcases. You could even put up acrylic panels you made yourself using some of the acrylic pour techniques (check youtube for directions). You need to think about how you want it to look. Here are a few links that I have found (caveat, I have not woked with all but I've gotten samples from some and the samples I have are gorgeous): https://fauxstonesheets.com/#Tokoyo https://www.sognaretile.com/collections/wall-tile-trim https://www.dumaplast.com/en/brands/waterproof-tongue-and-groove-wall-cladding-dumawall https://www.textureplus.com/store/ https://www.lowes.com/c/Siding-stone-veneer-Building-supplies https://www.flooranddecor.com BTW, we are installing a second kitchen in our house and we were oiginally looking at using a regular countertop due to the cost, but then found some large format tiles (24" x 48") on sale. I hate grout lines on a countertop, but with the large format tiles, the grout lines would very few and far between and it looks so much better than the inexpensive countertops. Open your thoughts to something different, you may find something yuo like a LOT better. HTH!...See MoreInstall sink so it can't be changed out? Sink in smallest cabinet size
Comments (11)Yeah--not doing drop in! I currently have a 36" sink cabinet with a 33" double bowl sink, which has length side-to-side for the bowl area of 29" with two 14" bowls and a one inch divider. I guess I'm hearing that I shouldn't worry about ever needing to change the sink out. For some reason it still just makes me nervous. I'm changing to a single bowl sink that's 31.5" long with the bowl 28" long. I'm making the sink cabinet smaller to give more space for drawers next to the sink. I might go with a slightly larger sink that has a 30" bowl (might still be 31.5 total across) but not sure the front-to-back measurement of 17" (vs 16 on current bowl and the one I'm considering) would be too much. How do people fit wider bowls into a 24" countertop when there's a backsplash and/or window sill to account for and you still need to fit a faucet? Right now the sink is 3" back from the front edge of the countertop. I don't want too skinny a piece of granite there, so 3" sounds good....See Morerichfield95
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