If they are anything like the Nexxt 500, the first thing you want to do is unplug the machine from it's electric connection. Do this immediately. Remove the back panel from the machine. This will probably take a star-drive with a hole in the center, found at auto parts stores. The drain hoses on these machines are connected near the top of the machine with a push-on type connection, not a locking connection. These can work their way loose over time, particularly if you have moved them. Unfortunately, the drain hose (if it's like the 500) is located directly over the control board with only a small guard. Push the hose back into place until it clicks - it takes some effort. Get some rubbing alcohol, 90%, and pour it over the control board and any electrical connections - make sure it gets everywhere. This will clear any water and detergent residue out of the connections and assist with the drying process without hurting anything. Place a fan blowing into the machine and let it dry thoroughly before trying to start the machine up again and see if it works correctly. If it doesn't, it would be cheaper to replace the machine than to repair it.

Keep in mind there is a LOT of moisture associated with a dryer vent---it is removing all the moisture from the clothing. There is also a LOT of lint, even with a lint trap. All that moisture and lint going out into an enclo0sed area will cause problems. Rusting of metal, mold growth, and lint accumulation on surfaces are just three of those. What would be the better solution is to run the exhaust into the garage and up through the roof. That means at least three 90 degree joints and that requires an assist fan in the duct work.

We hope to be starting before Thanksgiving and are also worried about all the turmoil. We don't have much choice about waiting because we had a huge storm last March that created a lot of exterior damage to the roof, gutters, soffits and even siding. Our house needs to be tended to before a cold NY winter hits. I am hoping the house is long closed up by the time it is freezing and/or snow hits. By that time, they will be working on the interior. The whole back of our house is being extended and the roof is being replaced (if it does not blow off on its own first, lol). Our kitchen is being moved and our master bath redone (as our master bedroom is being extended as well). Luckily, we have a large finished bsmt with a full bath and a side door that we can come and go through without being near the construction zone (which is most of our first floor) and is on its own zone for heating. We plan on camping out downstairs during the work. It will be a real challenge and I am grateful that dh & our sons have school. I may go hide at my office when they are home, lol. We are also planning on going skiing for the Xmas break, at least a couple of days, perhaps even on Xmas. I can't imagine the contractor and his crew working on 12/24 & 12/25. Dh &/or the boys can go sleep at my mils when school is out if they, or we, need a break. I'd rather sleep in the snow than go there, so I may have the house to myself ;) In any case, this has been such a long time coming, that I will take it whenever I can get it!

I can't read your text on the image. Did you take it at a small resolution? I always send my phone pics to my email at "large" resolution, then save to my laptop and post from there. They seem to open up bigger in GW. But not positive about this. Click on my pics and see how big they are when they're opened. If you are considering cabinets, since your space is a bit shallow at 5', I'd suggest looking at IKEA Sektion 15" base cabinets as an option. They aren't deep at 15" and might be nice along that left wall. I don't know if the left side cabinets would interfer with what you have planned for storage or not. Here is a run of 8' cabinets at the 15" depth base and uppers I put into my DH office, during the installation process: bottom drawers in place. The drawers are only 12" deep though. Since the cabinets are only 15" deep, it is easy to get into the lowers, compared with shelves in a 24" base. Which I call hell holes. Counter top, handles, floor in place. Still need to do a wall treatment behind counter: This run includes 30" box at each end and a 36" box in the middle. The middle lower 36" box has 2 narrow top drawers and 2 18" cabinet doors for the bottom. You can see it in the full shot above. On the side where your washer is going you could put full depth cabinets in I would think. You could make some sort of surround with the product too, as when done around refrigerators. You'll need several inches on either side for help in placing and removing the set. Or you could put your set side by side. Or you could build a counter with the washer underneath, and place the dryer on top of the counter. One reason for not stacking is that if one machine fails you don't have to buy a whole new set for stacking. I don't know much about stacking unmatched sets, though I believe it has been done. If you're handy, you can easily do this yourself. The only thing that DH helped me with was the installation of the upper cabinet stainless steel hanger rack, and the middle upper. I did the rest. It was heavy but got it done. You do need to pre drill holes to connect the boxes, though the instructions don't tell you this. I made the countertop too out of scrap soapstone, but one could cut down a prefab laminate counter from the big box stores I think. ETA, I just went back and looked at your original pics and see that you already have storage on the left wall. But you should look at IKEA for storage options, they have a great selection and the kitchen cabinets are well regarded.