Because of the number of trees and their close proximity, you need plants that will be tolerant of dry conditions and mostly shade. And you need to start with small things - hard to dig holes through all those tree roots!! Native plants that grow under similar conditions are the first place to start but there are various other groundcover plants that could work also.....vinca, pachysandra, epimedums, lamium, Geranium macrorrhizum, possibly hellebores.

Ah yes, those tree roots. That had definitely crossed my mind and then slipped it again as I got excited about adding some color to our otherwise green and brown yard. Hopefully this isn't a futile effort!

Realistically, it depends on what kinds of trees they are . . . What are the deciduous trees?

Not futile at all but just a matter of selecting the right plant(s). Just keep in mind that you will not be getting the same very colorful, free-flowering garden you would in full sun and with no trees :-)

pinkmountain, aside from the sweetgums (which I only know because of those awful spiky balls they drop) I'm honestly not sure what the other non-pine trees are. A relative suggested a type of oak, but I wouldn't know.

gardengal48, I completely understand I can't get the same color I would in full sun. I'm just hoping I can get at least something :)

The geranium in particular has a very long flowering period and offers a lot of color. Various cultivars available in colors ranging from white to hot pink/magenta. And even has some winter interest - foliage bronzes up in colder weather.

Correct the cleared area so the borders are not so squiggly and where it's near the walk, extend it to the walk--avoids maintenance of lawn problems. A planting of one ground cover, Geranium macrorrhizum for example, will look best and be easiest to maintain.

I have an area much much bigger than this size, and the trees were underplanted with pachysandra and periwinkle. It is really nice looking and green all winter. Pachysandra is very dense and keeps weeds out nicely. It is also a leave trap, but nothings perfect.

gardengal48, laceyvail, D D, thanks for these suggestions! All great ideas that I will definitely consider.

Dig Doug's Designs, if I do decide to try to add any flowers instead of just groundcover, can you name some of the plants you pictured in the typical NC plantings photo? Looks like possibly rhododendrons or azaleas, but not sure of the rest.

gardengal48, when you say "Native plants that grow under similar conditions are the first place to start," do you know what the best way for me to find out what those plants are? Is there an online resource, or should I just contact a local garden center?

The other plantings are hostas & cephalotaxus prostrata, both are carried at your local nurseries.

Despite how pretty the flowering plants/shrubs look in a mock up, there is no guarantee they will thrive - or even survive - under these conditions!! That's one of the major drawbacks of this sort of cursory design input. Unless one can examine firsthand the degree of rootiness and soil moisture (or rather, lack of it), suggestions for large growing and water hungry shrubs and perennials are a bit of a joke. The sweetgums (Liquidambar) in particular are well known for the production of a lot of surface roots that makes planting anything of any size under their canopy extremely problematic. And both they and the pines are water hogs and will pull all available moisture out of the soil.

This is a design issue I encounter on a daily basis. I live in an area with a lot of larger trees and with many lots that have these pockets of woodlands and know from more than 25 years of experience that groundcovers suited for dry shade conditions are the best choice. They are small enough so that one is able to dig a sufficiently sized planting hole though the tree roots and once established, are able to survive with that heavy root competition. Save the larger flowering shrubs - camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas, etc. - for the areas well away from the trees where they can receive the root-free, adequately fertile soil conditions and soil moisture they need to thrive.

Mock ups designed by someone with 31 years of design experience in the climate/conditions shown, have merit. These are not just pretty pictures. Also, the actual photo was taken in NC.

Your constant belittling of renderings is misguided. Especially in areas where you have no gardening experience. Positive contributions to this forum would be so much nicer.

Azaleas, mountain laurel, and rhododendron and blueberries are all native plants than can survive in the dry acid soil that are usually found under pine trees, although supplemental water in dry times will improve their chances of success. All except the laurels need a bit of sun. But you can't plant them too close together or too close to the trees and expect them to thrive and look lush. There will be too much competition for nutrients and water for that result. Also if you mess too much with the tree's roots you can send it down a path of decline.

Here's an example link I got just by googling for native plants for dry shade in zone 7, I have seen all these plants under similar conditions in the wild, except for the sumac and honeysuckle, http://www.yorkswcd.org/acrobat/Native%20Planting%20Recommendations/part%20to%20full%20shade%20&%20dry.pdf

Here's one on growing azaleas. https://vtechworks.lib.vt.edu/bitstream/handle/10919/70664/426-602.pdf?sequence=1

I appreciate everyone's input, so thank you. I'm going to pay close attention this spring and summer, once the trees fill in which should be happening soon, to see just how much sun we get below the tree canopy.
Also, I do believe the bushes you see next to a couple of the trees in the picture are azaleas that clearly aren't doing well. It could mean that spot just won't work for much other than ground cover, but it could also be that the previous owners just planted them way too close to the tree trunks. There was also a much lower tree canopy when we bought the place which left much more shade on that area, but we took those small, short trees down to lift the canopy and let some sunlight in the house, which may in turn make that area a bit more hospital to plants that need at least a little sun.

Intended garden areas containing a lot of small trees close together may often have little or no growth beneath them in the first place because the competition from the trees is so tough.

Notice in the 4th picture from the top - where it has been possible to get evergreen azaleas to grow - there are a lot fewer trees than in the situation being asked about.

Hi! search for some native understory plants, those that grow in the woods under the trees that don't get much light, that could be a nice start. I would totally go for perennial shrubs, flowering or not, you can mix and match hights and looks. If you need more guidance don't hesitate to ask!
Have a nice day!