is this a trailer or modular home so you have to go to the furnace to switch it to cooling and fan? If so your programable stat will not work on that system. You would have to run new 4 wire and do a lot of rewiring at the furnace. Later Paulbm

I would like to help you, but the connection names you listed are not used in North America. I would need to understand the function of each terminal in order to figure out how the thermostat should be connected. Does the installation manual give any details? Have you tried speaking to Honeywell? You may be able to get Honeywell customer service to help if this is a do-it-yourself type thermostat.

I climb up the attic open the door at furnace and find out there is a transformer that step down 120 v to 24 v . and two terminals at the second end (24v) red terminal is power 24v and the other terminal is use to connect to frame or chassis and serve as common ground so a c wire is any unused wire you can pick any color you want in the same bundle that goes from the furnace to the thermostat in my case those extra wires are trim flush to the bundle jacket on both end so I need to peel that jacket off about 2 inches on both end and connect a single wire about 2 foot long from the frame to the wire you selected (let say black) on the furnace end then the black wire on the thermostat end will be "C" wire and connect it to the "C" terminal on the new wifi fancy Honeywell or Nest. If I say anything wrong please correct me. I will do this at some other time. for now I just thinking. I signed up for smart (something) at gapower.com and they will sent me a nest gen.3 for free. I think this nest also will need "C" wire. I wait till I get the Nest then I will install both the Nest and the Honeywell at same time I will put the Nest down stair and Honeywell up stair.

The big reason to use solid vs stranded wire is that solid wire is easier to thread into those terminals. With stranded wire, there can be a problem if a loose strand manages to contact an ajacent terminal. More likely because the terminals in a thermostat are so close together. Just had a problem with our thermostat. It started running 2 degrees past set temperature. (I have it set for a 2 degree temp differential because the heater was constantly kicking on, running for just a bit and then kicking off...which was driving me nutz.) After a bit of sleuthing, I found that the caulking backer rod that I had shoved under an exterior door (across the room from the thermostat) had become unwedged and there was a significant draft from underneath the door. (The backer rod was supposed to be a temporary fix that I did a couple of winters ago but forgot all about it...) Once I got that hole plugged up (with a better temporary fix), the thermostat quit heating past set temp. I don't know for sure if the draft was the reason the thermostat got weird or if it was a coincidence.... Whatever, I did buy a new thermostat to replace the old one but haven't installed it since the problem seems to be resolved. Just tossing my recent experience out there as a potential cause because a new therm hasn't fixed your problem. (Yes, I know my thermostat is in a poor location and should be moved away from drafts from opening/ closing exterior doors. Just no good or easy place to relocate it to and it's a low priority problem.)