Are you asking what the angle of the slope is? If so, I'm not sure. However, I'm only leveling to the area of the potted plant, so before the uptick by the fence. Maybe 6 inches from lowest point to that point.

Do you intend to keep the trees? Would you be looking at root disturbance?

The giant fir (left side) will be kept, I'm not sure about the smaller tree yet. I think the circumfrence of the pit would only be 3ish feet.

Hello Max, I would recommend you size and locate the fire table or fire pit to accommodate the nearby trees and check with local codes prior to installing. You will very likely disturb the roots of the nearby trees. Being flexible with regards to the location of the fire pit will be helpful but make the project much more involved if you need to adjust the location significantly. If you are open to a fire table I would consider it, you will have less depth to dig and some units have self contained fuel source that may be acceptable with your municipality. I have a couple recent photos on my website of fire tables for clients in Newport in Middletown that I designed:

https://www.charlesearl.design/

Good Luck,

Charles

Have you considered calling in a couple of pros to get a bid (and pepper them with questions)? I don't know what all the issues are with leveling dirt, but I'd hate to try to save a few bucks and create a bigger and more costly problem. Theoretically, it seems like the worst case scenario is that all the dirt could become unstable and rush to the house. Not sure how likely that is. (and maybe I'm just paranoid after seeing the pics of the Santa Barbara mudslides. I wouldn't want any version of that in my backyard. lol). Good luck! ;)

That's hardly any slope at all and easily managed as a DIY project!! I am confused about concerns about the depth to dig.......you only need to dig down deep enough to provide a solid foundation for whatever you intend to surface your fire pit area with. And that wouldn't make any difference with a masonry block fire pit (they are not sunk into the ground!!), a free-standing portable fire pit or a fire table. 4-6" for pavers with a crushed gravel base....less if just using gravel. Done this a few times myself and I'm getting to be an old thing ;-))

fwiw, the slopes involved with the Santa Barbara or Ventura mudslides were almost vertical!! Not even remotely similar to what is going on here!!

Thanks gardengal, agreed it's not much slope. The reason for the level is that I'd like to do a flat tile surface as a base level, and then brick on top of it. So, it needs to be completely flat, and I just don't know how far out to extend the leveling from the tile, if that makes sense?

Flat tile surface.....?? Can you explain what that is? Typically paver or stone hardscaping is set onto a base of compressed crushed gravel or road base. And you only need to level the area in which you set the pavers.

This is sort of what I'm going for (tile with brick built into a grass (or in my case, dirt) area.

Do you mean that you want to install a patio? Is that what you mean by 'flat tile surface'? Then say so; tell us exactly and clearly what the problem is (with dimensions).

The homeworker doesn't need or want a retaining wall - it is just a flat, stable surface that is required for a fire pit and room for some surrounding seating. That is not major at all and well within a homeowner's ability!! Material can be - and usually is - delivered to a site, then just a matter of schlepping to the area. It will take some time and effort and yes, that can be short cutted by hiring a contractor but it is also completely within the realm of a DYI'er!!

You're overthinking this. Little tree in the middle comes out, set your patio height roughly at the "highest" point of the yard. Dig down 4-6" for the base material + the thickness of the paver/tile you're using, build the patio, use the excavated soils around the low side to feather out the grade.

To clear up some of the confusion, there's no patio at all. Just interested in leveling most of the way to the fence line, then laying about a 6X8 foot square of tile, then following that by brick. The tile and brick I can figure out on my own, I just need to know if digging (I've already called utilities BTW) and using the laser level is something you can do without any prior experience.

What are the tile and bricks if not a patio? Yes, you can do the digging and leveling with the laser yourself.

unless you have a one-word equivalent for 6x8 square of tile, I'm going to persist w/ "patio" as it's the closest thing :)

I did my first timber wall with a Time-Life home improvement book propped open on the picnic table. The principles of most landscape jobs are the same. Take your time, keep checking and re-checking your level, and you'll be fine. Slow is fast.

Easily DIYed. If an enginerd doesn’t try to over think it.

Tile requires a concrete surface (patio). You're way overthinking this. Excavate about 6 inches (where will you put the dirt?), use a clear tube and water (YouTube for videos) to establish level. Now install pea gravel, and compact well (using a tamper is hard work) after each inch of fill. This allows for water drainage and won't suffocate the tree roots. Be sure the overhead branches are trimmed way up...you don't want the Fire Dept. to pay a visit.

Interesting, I definitely wasn't aware that patio was the correct verbatim for something not connected to the back...I stand corrected! We have a yard materials bin that gets picked up every week by our garbage. Tree has been pruned pretty heavily.

So, dig a 6 inch hole in the desired area, laser level and smooth out (assuming these can also be acquired from home depot tool rental, which is where I'm getting the laser), install gravel+well, and that's it? Just making sure I'm not missing anything.

Yep, that's it. You can also install a steel edge band around the excavation BUT keep it 2 inches below the finished level (avoid a trip hazard). You will need to add pea gravel occasionally because the gravel will "settle" after it rains (no matter how hard you tamp). Just use a rake to "even it out". Enjoy. (Patio or slab=same thing.)

You need to buy a laser level. And 90-% of the tools. Not rent. A homeowner needs to own tools. Nothing you need here toolwise would be wasted money to buy.

Good point Sophie!

Max, start your tool chest by requesting gift cards to HD or Lowe's instead of "gifts" on occasions where you receive presents. With the internet at your fingers you can learn how to "fix" almost anything...and avoid costly service calls.

Great, thanks for the help all. I finally heard back from a contractor just to get a quote, they said $1500-$3000, with the upper end of the range if a retaining wall is needed.

You don't level the dirt. You level the gravel/base layer.

The bible for installation instructions isn't anything that gets said here. It is the installation instructions that come with the material you are using.

You don't build the wall on top of the paving. The wall requires different subsurface prep, as well as being level. Paving shouldn't be level, since a slight slope is required for drainage. You build the wall, then install the paving up against it.

If you really, really want to play with a laser level, get one and play with it. However, IME, a large liquid level is easier to use since it does a better job of behaving like the pavers.

we did in our back yard is not that hard

And I would suggest NOT buying the tools!! YOU may never need them again :-) I have installed all kinds of hardscape using rented tools - post hole diggers, compactors, pry bars and jack hammers. The only time I used a laser level, I borrowed it from my nephew, who is a building contractor (borrowed him to work the thing, too :-)) Have also rented sod cutter, sod rake and roller. Unless they are undertaking a massive DIY project, homeowners will just not get enough use from these types of equipment to justify the expense. If you are opening your own landscape business, that is another matter..........:-))

You can spend $500 minimum on a laser level, or $30 for a roll of string line, some rebar stakes, and a couple of stringline levels. Especially with what you're describing building it's going to be way easier to keep a consistent level w/ a string line. It's not like this is a complex build or a challenging site.

A tamper is $12. You can spend under $30 at Harbor Freight and get good enough for a homeowner laser level. And you can spend more if you want too. Levels of all kinds are useful to own. Landscape projects needs a water level and a string level.

Buy the shovel and wheelbarrow from somewhere else though. That’s going to get a lot more use. And you’ll need a locked garden shed or place in the garage for stuff.

https://m.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/levels.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided 

I think we're talking about different things Sophie. For the life of me I can't see using the same type of laser level you'd use to hang pictures in the bathroom as you would to build a patio.